Leather - old guncase straps very dry

[Heym SR20]

Collective wisdom please. I have a couple of old leather cases where the keather, in particular straps abd on the edges has got rather dry and almost crumbly. What would you use to revitalise these. I have recommended a dubin type product as used on bridles etc And once that has soaked in then something like snowseal to give a good finish.

 

[DVS1]

Linseed oil be any good?

 

[B&W FOX]

Saddle soap

 

[VSS]

Ask Freeforester on this site. What he doesn't know about leather probably isn't worth knowing.

 

[Dalua]

My usual choice is Carr, Day and Martin's Leather Oil.

 

[enfieldspares]

Ko-Cho-Line. I once knew a Deputy Director of Leicestershire Museums. He swore by it. For just what you have as your issue. But as DALUA says what Carr Day & Martin don't know about leather isn't worth knowing, give them a call.

Ko-Cho-Line Leather Dressing - Carr Day Martin

Ko-Cho-Line Leather Dressing from Carr & Day & Martin protects leather from mould and mildew when in storage. Click now.

www.carrdaymartin.co.uk

 

[Klenchblaize]

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K

 

[enfieldspares]

Oh Lord no! Don't ever use Connolly on anything like a cartridge bag or guncase where the leather has something glued onto the back of it. So that might be a linen or other backing if a cartridge bag or a wood backing if a guncase. Connolly will penetrate and act to separate the leather from what it has been glued to.

 

[Cottis]

I would use either neatsfoot oil or a conditioner i use on good leather that is a mixture of beeswax and other oils

 

[Klenchblaize]

Oh Lord no! Don't ever use Connolly on anything like a cartridge bag or guncase where the leather has something glued onto the back of it. So that might be a linen or other backing if a cartridge bag or a wood backing if a guncase. Connolly will penetrate and act to separate the leather from what it has been glued to.

That's why quality leather articles are constructed in accordance with the doctrine of Handsewn!

K

 

[Fosbery Holster]

My personal method of treatment of leather goods, and l have quite a collection of items that date 100 years plus, is firstly clean and rehydrate ever so slightly using one of the branded children’s face and hand wipes, it dries quite quickly leaving the leather clean and ready for the first and maybe only treatment (depending on the condition of the leather) of “Hydrophane Leather Treatment” (blue tin) applied sparingly with a lint free cloth, don’t flood any leather with any treatment, a little at a time until desired effect is achieved, leaving the item at room temperature to be able to absorb the treatment until dry.
If the leather is rotting, (red rot) crumbling, it’s probably due to the way it was tanned, it’s difficult to repair or stabilise this effect and maybe the only way is to replace this section of the leather that’s rotten, unless it’s of Historical importance.
All my leather treated as described doesn’t deteriorate or show any signs of mould as maybe found using a preparation like neatsfoot oil.

 

[levigsp]

Linseed oil be any good?

makes leather very brittle.

 

[Orion]

What’s the verdict on Renapur?

 

[Freeforester]

Sounds like the combination of central heating and lack of initial care has done for them, it sounds to me like you'd be throwing good oil or conditioner on something that is now effectively beyond saving, but you'd have to ask a local saddler for their take on whether they are going or gone. One surenway to find out is if you twist the leather at the ragged area, if it's dried out behind saving the strap will tear. You'll know whether you wish to repair or replace the straps, if the rest of them is fresh a new end can be made to match and thereafter spliced into them, but as above, they may already be as good as gone.

All leather benefits enormously from being cared for and treated:

1) before first use
2) after first use first week
3) end of first month
4) before end of first year

And any time after it gets wet, 'wet' paradoxically dries leather out (or more properly the process of it drying after being wetted); central heating is another bad one, best to keep leather items away from radiators etc, but a modicum of care and dressing from time to time and a little bit of use is best for keeping it supple.

 

[Freeforester]

Linseed oil be any good?

Generally not.

Oh Lord no! Don't ever use Connolly on anything like a cartridge bag or guncase where the leather has something glued onto the back of it. So that might be a linen or other backing if a cartridge bag or a wood backing if a guncase. Connolly will penetrate and act to separate the leather from what it has been glued to.

This may be sound advice for vintage items, i.e. which were put together pre the advent of petroleum based impact adhesives, but I can't say I've ever seen such an occurrence with 'newer' made items. I made my own cartridge bag near forty years ago now, the linen backing was fixed to the leather with "Evo Stik" way back then, and it's still as sound as the day it was made, in spite of regular (light/sparing) dressing with Hide Food. But if in doubt, don't - not all solutions are the final one!

 

[Freeforester]

Double hit - sorry, I don't know whether I can delete entirely.

 

[375 mag]

You may laugh but I brought an old cartridge belt back to life using baby oil and E45 cream, worked a treat.

 

[DVS1]

My apologies for duff info lol

I used linseed oil on my baseball mitt and it was as supple as anything

 

[Klenchblaize]

The man who taught me something about leatherwork; I only attended a day release course at Cordwainers for 12-months, was a Mr. Peter Wall who only used Connolly hide food.

I beleive Peter is still making beautifully crafted leather goods and runs leather craft workshops from his home in Gislingham, Suffolk. Tel: 01379-783581.

I have seen him mentioned on the internet and can well believe the following statement is true: "This is one of the few places (Peter's workshop) where it is still possible to learn traditional Leathergoods Skills from a practicing exponent of the craft."

K

 

[enfieldspares]

Well the man who told about never using Connolly's was Peter Powell who was told it to me in the 1980s when I had three Brady pigskin cartridge bags from him. Two 150 size...one for the boot of the car and one for the gunbus and a 50 to decant to take to the peg. Which were ordered new from Brady's. With words to the effect that Mr Brady (who then was of senior years but still in charge when Brady of Halesowen was still under his direction) had told him to emphasize to me to never use Connolly's for the reason noted in my earlier post. I've always stuck by that advice and the three bags are still a joy to use. Even if it gets caught out in the wet an old old pigskin cartridge bag is a pleasure whereas an old cow leather cartridge bag can be afterwards resemble a horror. Sad to say I doubt anyone now makes a pigskin cartridge bag.