Lee Loader stiff chambering and withdrawal

bakereloadprune

Well-Known Member
Hello forum. I'll preface this post to say that I've gone through numerous threads on this forum (and a few others) with similar issues and significant feedback from forum contributors - it's not my intention to ask anyone to repeat what they have said before, but perhaps provide a little further guidance and/or suggestions to my situation. I appreciate this topic has been asked and I may not be in a position to resolve this easily without outlay for further equipment.

In a nutshell I have a Howa 1500: I've reloaded .223 magtech once-fired brass which was originally off-the-shelf magtech 55gr FMJ (which chambered smoothly in my Howa without problem). I took 30 of these once-fired cases. I prepped the brass by depriming, ultrasonic cleaning and neck resizing with the lee loader. The length of the brass (only full case) was checked against the factory with calipers, the sierra manual and saami. Then on to priming (flush), charging and seating a 53gr sierra matching HP with flat base, matching the overall length of the factory magetch ammo.

At the range, about 30% of these reloads had stiff bolt opening and/or closing (none that were fine closing the bolt had issues opening & extracting, if that makes sense). By stiff, the bolt went down a small fraction and then I needed to give it a way more force forward to close it. Similar to opening - something I've not experienced before and I don't think acceptable (even grazed my thumb on the scope rings trying to open the bolt a few times). No visible witness marks on the cases of the fired cartridges. Accuracy was fine, near MOA groups at 100 yards and probably would be tighter for a better shot than me! Since firing, I've not cleaned manipulated the cases, other than to inspect and size them alongside the original factory rounds (live) and fired cases. I can't pick up any differences (but I'm unable to measure shoulders and necks consistenly with just a caliper (right?).

Clearly, any force needed to close or open the bolt is not good. Anything that impedes safe operating is not good, further damage to my bolt/chamber is also not acceptable, simple as that. But since these rounds were first-fired in my rifle (without issue) and then neck-sized, I thought there would be no issue and straightforward. Ideally I thought I would be able to get started with the Lee Loader and over the months & years ahead, progress to a more dedicated press-setup if reloading was for me, In parallel I hope to enter stalking and developing competencies to support it.

Some thoughts/ideas/next-steps I've picked up from reading prior posts, in order of likelihood...mixed with a bit of personal preference:

- My rifle chamber is dirty and needs a good clean. Honestly, I've just been running VFG felts and nylon brushes down the bore and giving the action area a bush and a wipe, not realizing the chamber gets dirty. A flashlight down there shows some waxy like deposits where the shoulder of the round sits. But I look back at all the factory ammo that is chambered without issue. Is it really the chamber? [I plan to do this]

- If I were to reload the same way again but try to chamber each round directly after cleaning (unprimed/charged/bullet-seating), that would be able to identify the outliers. Could I then colour in the ill-fitting cases with a permanent marker and then see where the issue is after chambering>extracting? This is diagnosis, but not fix! [I plan to do this, unless feedback suggests not to]

- Magtech (CBC marks) brass is not good and should not be reloaded. I'm on the fence on this one, happy to get 50-100 premium unfired cases to close the issue if thats the problem. [open option perhaps]

- My technique is poor. I can't see how/where. everything is flush and the overall finished round length is the same as the factory (granted I am not measuring anything other, as I don't have anything more than a set of standard calipers e.g. comparator).

- Neck sizing is insufficient and I should FL resize. I don't want to believe this! Perhaps my chamber is close to the margin and not liking the rounds the loader is delivering? Is the "hammering" of the bullet seater changing the shoulder or neck that much?

I realize after all this typing (thank you if you are reading to here) that there's a mix of diagnosis vs solutions in my thinking above. I don't want to be a cheapskate, but I simply started reloading to build up a new skill and try out different loads, rather than increasingly eeak out incremental gains over performance (I have a feeling this stage will come in time). Any guidance that anyone can give me to be most efficient at getting reliable and more importantly safe loads in this early stage of my reloading journey is greatly appreciated. Thanks in advance!

BRP
 
I have the same issue with ggg ammo and a 223/5.56 wild chamber. the only thing i have changed is i full length size instead of neck size (even though fire formed) and now the rounds fit lovely and no stiff//seized rounds to ponce about with. OK it takes lightly longer as a little lube is needed and a quick clean after. doesn't add too long and I'm doing 500 at a time!
 
Ideally use a press and dies for uniformity - and ease.

You have some sized correctly, some not. In an ideal world loading single shot, for competition, you feel a nice ‘bite’ as the bolt fully closes but not enough to require force. You dont want anything like this in a hunting situation-all cartridges need to be easily chambered and easily ejected, fired or not.
 
Most ammunition loaded with the lee loader will be a little stiff to close the bolt on its not a fault of your loader or bad technique .If you want your brass back to factory spec you need to fl resize, or put up with a stiff bolt closure and crack on with the lee loader.
 
Most supposed full length sizers actually aren't quite what people think they are! I would imagine Lee's Lee Loader is the same. Yes they so called "full length re-size" but NOT back to new factory specification AFAIK.

Therefore you may need what is called a SMALL BASE FL SIZING DIE. I know this as you used to get chambering issues with brass fired in sloppy chambered Parker Hale bolt action rifles. But the reason actually for these SB FL DIES and even EXTRA SB FL DIES was to re-size case fired in self-loading rifles. The Americans not having suffered Thatcher's ban still can own and use slef loading and pump action centrefire sporting rifles in .270 Winchester, .280 Remington and .30/06 such as Remingtons's 740 and 760 and suchlike.

But I'd first try a friend's standard .223/5.56mm dies and they should work or if not try some SB FL DIES.
 
Hmmm. If you accept that there are substantial differences in rifle chambers then you will know that factory rounds are designed to fit all chambers so inevitably the factory dimensions will err to “loose fit”.
Your once-fired homeloads issue may be as simple as your n/s die needs further adjustment - 1/4 turn maybe (but check instructions) or maybe just go for the suggested f/l option which could take you to manufacturer’s specs - again following instructions and solving your problem.
Good luck.
🦊🦊
 
Thanks everyone so far. Just a quick note to say that this is a "Lee Loader" setup...hammering cases into a die, rather than the more common press with die setup. I know this is approach has limitations and whatnot, but at the same time appears to have served many well, and thereby a path I took and hopefully want to stay on.

Great idea on the alternative die @jcampbellsmith. I'll ask at my club if anyone has 223 they can FL size/prep for me (no one has a lee loader afaik), though this is not a long-term fix for me, unless I go down the press route (I know they are great but I also thought the loader was great! 🙃).

I'm now questioning if its the way I'm "malleting" the cases on a slightly bouncy bench. Maybe I try the next batch on a granite or similar block instead...maybe there's some "thou's" that I'm just not accounting for when I measure, or enough force going to the areas that need it most (shoulder)?

Since returning from the range I gave the rifle a clean and a little more attention in the chamber and action area. A handful (six) cleaned and sized cases (otherwise unprimed/charged) appear to cycling through the bolt opening and closing silky smooth - I'm very much discouraged trying to do this with a live reloaded round with the pin out at home...If I check all of the next bath before priming and then have issues, it will point to a follow-on step as the culprit.

Appreciate everyone's help and suggestions and apologies for those that have read this type of issue time and again on this forum!
BRP
 
I believe the Lee loader only neck sizes the 223 brass. It may also be that the brass quality is conspiring after neck sizing to compound your issue.
You may be able to have the lee loader die shortened by a few though so the brass is hammered in more etc.
It could also be possible you have crud in the chamber.
 
My thought would be
As only one fired in your chamber I presume you are not likely to be having a shoulder problem. This would expand to your chamber size then shrink back slightly with cooling- hence neck sizing works. If from another gun then this is likely to be the problem.
If these are once fired in your gun then it may be a few things
Over all length has grown and brass in now too long ( I think you have checked this vrs spec)
The bullets are seated too long ( again check against reccomended length)
Are you chamfering brass inside and out- I have found that if not as you seat bullet it can squash the shoulder out and back due to increased friction,making the case to wide to chamber. This is likely the case if neck sized but not loaded brass fits. Try measuring diameter of factory at shoulder vrs sized vrs sized and loaded. It should not change after loading.
Last is if the brass has a “donut” not likely with once fired. Measure factory loaded round neck diameter, then measure reload neck diameter and check same at a few points from case neck shoulder junction to case mouth.
Regards
 
Good points @rwade545.

No case prep beyond cleaning. I didn't chamfer as I wasnt trimming. Probably wise to get a lee chamfering tool and perhaps a trimmer and lock stud kit at the same time to be 100% sure its not overtly long over time.

What you say about the diameter at the shoulder (bottom of the neck right?) makes complete sense, especially after seating a bullet.

I'll seat a bullet into an unprimed but sized case and investigate ASAP.

Most appreciated!
BRP
 
Brass quality or rather constitution determines the level of spring back (for want of a better terminology).
 
Sorry @bakereloadprune , but after reading this thread, you evidently need to go back and read the instructions that (hopefully!) came with your Lee Loader.

It is alarming to me that you have decided to forgo trimming. If you are working the case enough to the point that the bolt won't close on a fired case, you should at least be checking it is within length with a cheap lee trimmer.

Better still, read Richard Lee's Modern Reloading : https://www.google.com/url?sa=t&sou...8QFnoECAQQAQ&usg=AOvVaw0wq8dqdIEkbwxyjjSPn3vZ

There is a way to 'full length size' brass without a press, but it requires at least a vise and lube. See here: Vise Dies (Old school Full Length Resizing)
 
Demo by the late, great, Richard Lee himself:



The Lee Loader is what was once called a 'hand die', and for anyone thinking it's rubbish, I hope you don't own any fancy L.E Wilson in-line seaters and arbour press :stir:

A Lee Loader is an excellent tool, especially for loads which are not on the hot side. One should bear in mind that Lee Loaders differ between rifle, pistol and shotgun models but work on the same priciple.

@Stalker1962 can relate the peril of not reading the Lee Loader instructions/data sheet :thumb:
 
From what I remember neck sizing does not work the shoulders, limiting flow of metal and hence reduces case length growth. Quite often after first firing and brass expanding to chamber size brass length can be a bit less than that trim length.
Still worth checking.
Check if fired brass will fit in rifle
Check if neck sized will fit
If the above 2 allow bolt closure in brass fired in this gun then likely something done afterwards eg primer not flush or bullet pressing everything backwards.
As caberslash eludes too-make sure it’s not a metal hammer creating sparks.
 
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