Light Strike - Firing Pin issue? Tikka M695

[roaring_stag]

I have experienced 4 misfires with my rifle within the last week (two of these misfires meant that I lost animals which, had the bullet fired, would have been successful culls = lost income as I am culling under contract).

Rifle - Tikka M695
Caliber - .270
Ammunition - Factory, Sako, Powerhead 2, 110 gn

The usual scenario is:

1. Spy deer, exit pickup
2. chamber round quietly, apply safety
3. approach/stalk into animal and set up for shot
4. remove safety, followed by the dreaded click.....!

If I have the opportunity for a reload, and second shot, then the second shot has worked each time.....

Recently, I have stripped the bolt, cleaned spring, firing pin etc, in the hope that this might cure the issue..... sadly not!

Upon inspection, the primer is struck, with a good impression on the surface of the primer. Compared to other spent cases of the same ammunition, it is perhaps very slightly more 'lightly struck'.

My thoughts/suspicions are:

A) I am chambering the round gently/quietly to avoid making noise, this is seating the round incorrectly, not far enough forward in the breach?
B) the firing pin is worn - which means that when the trigger is operated the firing pin isn't firing forward as much as it should?
C) The firing pin spring is worn - which means that when the trigger is operated, it does not have the necessary force to fire the primer.
D) I have a dodgy batch of SAKO ammo (I think this is unlikely, as I have used this ammo for a good while now, without issue).

I will attempt to post some photos of the misfired rounds and the spend cartridges for comparison and comment.

(N.B. - I know very little about ammo/reloading/primers etc)

Thanks in advance.
RS

[EDIT - I have just realised that this thread would probably be better places in the rifles/ammunition sections of this category - Admin - please feel free to relocate]

 

[.25-06]

Take one of the 'fired' rounds and chamber and fire again. Most misfires I've had are ammo related except when I broke the firing pin

 

[HonestJohn]

Have you got other Ammon to try? how does the firing pin head look? did you clean the inside of the bolt thoroughly/leave to soak in case there's crud build up at the head?

a worn firing pin tip is very rare as the primer really is very soft compared to the hardened steel of the firing pin

 

[Selous]

Is your bolt handle fully down? Is the firing pin protruding adequately, is there debris in the bolt body that is preventing the pin from moving forwards? Is the firing pin spring weak or broken??

 

[User00040]

I have experienced 4 misfires with my rifle within the last week (two of these misfires meant that I lost animals which, had the bullet fired, would have been successful culls = lost income as I am culling under contract).

Rifle - Tikka M695
Caliber - .270
Ammunition - Factory, Sako, Powerhead 2, 110 gn

The usual scenario is:

1. Spy deer, exit pickup
2. chamber round quietly, apply safety
3. approach/stalk into animal and set up for shot
4. remove safety, followed by the dreaded click.....!

If I have the opportunity for a reload, and second shot, then the second shot has worked each time.....

Recently, I have stripped the bolt, cleaned spring, firing pin etc, in the hope that this might cure the issue..... sadly not!

Upon inspection, the primer is struck, with a good impression on the surface of the primer. Compared to other spent cases of the same ammunition, it is perhaps very slightly more 'lightly struck'.

My thoughts/suspicions are:

A) I am chambering the round gently/quietly to avoid making noise, this is seating the round incorrectly, not far enough forward in the breach?
B) the firing pin is worn - which means that when the trigger is operated the firing pin isn't firing forward as much as it should?
C) The firing pin spring is worn - which means that when the trigger is operated, it does not have the necessary force to fire the primer.
D) I have a dodgy batch of SAKO ammo (I think this is unlikely, as I have used this ammo for a good while now, without issue).

I will attempt to post some photos of the misfired rounds and the spend cartridges for comparison and comment.

(N.B. - I know very little about ammo/reloading/primers etc)

Thanks in advance.
RS

[EDIT - I have just realised that this thread would probably be better places in the rifles/ammunition sections of this category - Admin - please feel free to relocate]

Has the rifle ever been re-barreled? How long have you owned it for? Is it in a different stock?

Might not be the answer you want to hear, but I'd agree with @Selous that either you are not pushing the bolt all the way down, or your firing pin is somehow losing energy/damaged.

If I were you, I'd be using a different rifle ASAP and get this one scrapped traded in for a T3x.

 

[long_range_rob]

Also check the seat isn’t dragging on the firing pin thus slowing its forward travel and reducing the strike.

 

[roaring_stag]

Take one of the 'fired' rounds and chamber and fire again.

Have tried this, and yes the rounds do fire on second attempt...

Have you got other Ammon to try?

No I don't however, I did have a similar issue a while ago with some winchester ammunition (which I just put down to Winchester ammo being crap?)

Is your bolt handle fully down?

Good point - there is a fair bit of play in the bolt handle on the M695 action when safety is applied - perhaps when I am taking safety off, the handle is slightly up?

Has the rifle ever been re-barreled? How long have you owned it for? Is it in a different stock?

Yes, @caberslash - It is a M695 action with a Bergara 22'' sporter profile - rebarreled in 2017, I have owned rifle since 2020.

If I were you, I'd be using a different rifle ASAP and get this one scrapped traded in for a T3x.

This is what I am thinking...... Ideally looking for a T3x in .270. It seems that owning an older action rifle with limited spare parts/stocks available isn't the most sensible idea.

RS

 

[User00040]

Have tried this, and yes the rounds do fire on second attempt...

No I don't however, I did have a similar issue a while ago with some winchester ammunition (which I just put down to Winchester ammo being crap?)

Good point - there is a fair bit of play in the bolt handle on the M695 action when safety is applied - perhaps when I am taking safety off, the handle is slightly up?

Yes, @caberslash - It is a M695 action with a Bergara 22'' sporter profile - rebarreled in 2017, I have owned rifle since 2020.



This is what I am thinking...... Ideally looking for a T3x in .270. It seems that owning an older action rifle with limited spare parts/stocks available isn't the most sensible idea.

RS

There is a chance that whoever re-barreled it did a crap job on headspace.

However, if the rounds fire on second go, this is probably not the case.

I think you are due an appointment with a gunsmith!

 

[roaring_stag]

There is a chance that whoever re-barreled it did a crap job on headspace.

However, if the rounds fire on second go, this is probably not the case.

I think you are due an appointment with a gunsmith!

yes.... and/or my local friendly RFD for a new rifle .....

 

[Howzat]

I had exactly the same problem with my 695 in 6.5x 55, striped out the bolt and firing pin assy dismantled the spring from the firing pin by removing the tiny circlip packed out the spring with three tiny washers and reassembled never had any trouble since, however it is difficult to compress the spring to get the circlip back in so I made a spring compresser to do it, do not lose the circlip as I doubt if you can get a replacement

 

[Smellydog]

Pretty much any size c clip is available on the web.
Depending on where the pin stop is on them rifles...I forget....make sure no crud, hard to see crud is not robbing the pins travel. It only needs to lose a few thou and this can happen.

 

[HonestJohn]

the rifle probably wouldn't have passed proof if the headspace wasn't good enough TBH. If restocked and bolt handle recess isn't sufficiently deep, yes, the bolt might not close fully,..could result in a non-fully loaded spring, but I just don't see this being the case.

how well did you clean the bolt internals, firing pin, spring, etc.? a quick wash and wipe, or properly soaked overnight and cleaned with carb cleaner/other?

if it was the firing pin head worn, you'd not get them to fire on the 2nd go, they'd be even harder to ignite as there's already some primer indentation.

I assume no one has lapped the locking lugs since re-barrel or other such fun?

 

[Jammy-landy]

When you ejected the live round, did it leave a strike mark on the primer? Have you tried ammunition from a completely different batch number?
Totally understand that when doubts form, it makes puts your back up using it. Good excuse for a new rifle? Confidence is king.

 

[User00040]

the rifle probably wouldn't have passed proof if the headspace wasn't good enough TBH.

I can assure you that rifles which close on 'No Go' or won't close on 'Go' gauges still pass proof.

I had one of each, both rectified since...

 

[@theroedeerguy]

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[HonestJohn]

I can assure you that rifles which close on 'No Go' or won't close on 'Go' gauges still pass proof.

I had one of each, both rectified since...

that's unbelievable given how strict they are on guns being off the face by even a micron

 

[User00040]

that's unbelievable given how strict they are on guns being off the face by even a micron

Do you mean shotguns and barrel wall thickness?

Without de-railing the thread, the proof houses need to justify their own existence, so I suspect that re-proofing high end, antique shotguns takes up a lot of their otherwise busy schedule...

 

[Smellydog]

A break action firearm has completely different requirements.

 

[Heym SR20]

Going back to the OP, strip the bolt and give a good clean. Use plenty of gun oil, lighter fluid or even washing up liquid and strong blast from a tap. Chances its full of gunk so firing pin is not functioning with full velocity.

Once its degunked give the inside of the bolt a good scrub with bore brush or even wire wool. Make sure firing pin is clean.

Rinse off, and then reassemble with a light machine / gun oil. Possibly use a dry lubricant such as used on bike chains.

Most gun problems are caused by gunk - a mixture of gun oil, powder residues and bits of rust and other crap from dust, pollen dried blood, human sweat and skin ( main component part of house dust I believe).

 

[Dunwaters]

Before you go trading in a perfectly good rifle try disassembling the bolt for a thorough degrease and clean, and apologies if you’ve already done this.
When a previously functioning firearm suddenly developes new behaviours either something is broken or something has changed, in this case a build up of grease and oil in the firing pin slot has likely turned to varnish over time and is cushioning the strike.
Its worth a look, said varnish accumulated where the firing pin protrudes and can be a bugger to shift.