Loss scope.

purdeydog

Well-Known Member
Noticed yesterday my shots were going all over the place and my Pictinny rail had come lose. It’s 10 years old so no drama.

Took it off today and the gunsmith appears to have used some sort of adhesive/bonding agent to join the rail to the rifle along with the 4 screws. Any idea what product that would be? Joining metal to metal. It was lose when I took it off along with the screws so I guess it’s bonding quality had long since failed. Cheers
 
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I will have been a Loctite of some sort.
Just clean it off and use fresh locate when you reassemble.
I expect a SD member will advise on what type of Loctite to use. I dont know as my rails are not Loctited.
D
 
Noticed yesterday my shots were going all over the place and my Pictinny rail had come lose. It’s 10 years old so no drama.

Took it off today and the gunsmith appears to have used some sort of adhesive/bonding agent to join the rail to the rifle along with the 4 screws. Any idea what product that would be? Joining metal to metal. It was lose when I took it off along with the screws so I guess it’s bonding quality had long since failed. Cheers
Would be loctite he used.
 
Interesting. I've several mounts fitted with a smear of Loctite that have been in place for some 30-years and show no sign of breaking the bond. It may be there is a significant irregularitiy between the action contour and rail underside that needs more 'filler' than whatever was previously used can provide.

K
Ps: There is more than one type of Loctite.
 
Interesting the rail came loose, I’ve never had that happen.

A small amount of blue loctite in the back three screws should be fine, torque to around 20 in lbs. Don’t put any loctite in the front screw hole - this tends to be drilled down to the barrel threads and your gun smith won’t thank you if you ever need to take the barrel off!

If the rail is particularly bad fitting (maybe a reason it came loose), you can Devcon bed it to the action. I use release agent on the receiver so it’s not permanently bonded on.
 
Interesting the rail came loose, I’ve never had that happen.

A small amount of blue loctite in the back three screws should be fine, torque to around 20 in lbs. Don’t put any loctite in the front screw hole - this tends to be drilled down to the barrel threads and your gun smith won’t thank you if you ever need to take the barrel off!

If the rail is particularly bad fitting (maybe a reason it came loose), you can Devcon bed it to the action. I use release agent on the receiver so it’s not permanently bonded on.
Its over 10 years old and probably shot a 1500 - 2000 rounds with it, .308. So im not to concerned. Thats great advice on the front screw as I noticed that screw was a few mill shorter.

Thanks for all the advice.
 

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Names will be withheld to protect the guilty but a few years ago an RFD mate asked an old gunsmith to pop some bases on a Lee Enfield no4 to created a sort of no4T. It was a lovely metalwork job until it was pointed out the front base was mounted via two neat, tapped holes that went right into the chamber 🤦🏼‍♂️
 
Another withheld …. Some time ago a friend was convinced he had broken something after a little “home” gun smithing, he wanted a bit of help and reassurance.
Turns out he had put a long screw in the front aperture of the rear scope mount, instead of the rear aperture ……. Hey presto the bolt refused to slide fully home.😁🙈
 
Well put I little loctite 638 under the rail and then screwed down with a little loctite 243. Check zero, as expected zero had moved about 4 inches left and up a bit. But shooting straight now.
 
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