Misfires in a Tikka T3

[Ronin]

As others have indicated

Strip out fire control

Wash thoroughly with carb cleaner the bolt tube and firing pin mech

Clean out the tube with suitable thin tool wrapped in blue towel

Re lube the spring with light application of oil

Re assemble

This should sort light strike caused by detritus in bolt tube or sticking of the fire control mecj

Clean trigger with lighter fuel and make sure the sear drops and re sets

If problem continues consider replacing the fire control with a new one

T3 usually are ultra reliable

Dirt or work spring is usually the cause in high use / old examples

 

[Donkey Basher]

My landlord had light strike issues with his T3 last year, he’s ex-Army & been drilled in the “if it moves oil it” regime. Needless to say bolt tube full of crappite!

Easily solved by stripping the bolt down, old toothbrush & diesel to clean up the firing pin spring, then a clean with brake cleaner. Bolt tube also doused with diesel, then blown out with brake cleaner then an old phosphour bronze brush used to give it a scrub before another dousing of brake cleaner. VERY light application of light oil to the firing pin & all reassembled.

Everything worked perfectly, like new in fact!

 

[urban]

This thread has mentioned brake cleaner, lighter fluid and diesel for cleaning - and combinations of two of them, like they do different things. Is this really true? Aren't they all just effectively oil solvents?

 

[Ronin]

Brake cleaner / carb cleaner is what I use for cleaning oils and grease from actions etc then ultrasonic (but that is another thing entirely)

Lighter fluid cleans and leaves a coating of lubricant on triggers that is effectively dry when flashed off so doesn’t pick up dirt easily

 

[Jelen]

This thread has mentioned brake cleaner, lighter fluid and diesel for cleaning - and combinations of two of them, like they do different things. Is this really true? Aren't they all just effectively oil solvents?

Don't forget Petrol or Kerosene

 

[Jagged77]

When I was getting light strikes in my T3 I did a thorough clean with brake cleaner etc. The bolt spring was pretty clean to start with though. It made no appreciable difference.

Once a new firing pin assembly was installed there was a noticeable difference in cocking pressure when engaging the bolt. The old spring very weak in comparison.

 

[Damoeire33]

Sounds like a worn firing pin. By all means check bolt lugs etc first.

Have you taken the bolt from the rifle & set it in the fired position to check firing pin protrusion?

 

[Demetrius]

I had this with an M595....check the firing pin tip surface and the protrusion. Should be 1.3-1.6mm.
Mine had a small flake of metal missing from the tip. This was re-profiled to a smooth dome, and it's been fine ever since.

D

 

[little hawk]

If you de-cock the firing pin and check the condition of the pin and check out the inner of the bolt for crud , this rules a few things out . Is the primer being hit and leaving a reasonable strike on the primer ? Then it will be down to poor primers ( very common at present )

The last time had a misfire, last week, the round was hit very lightly- hardly touched at all. Compared to other spent cases, you can see a decisive primer indentation. I am thinking that the case resizing may be over done on the misfires, but they look the same. The pin is fine. The inside of the bolt seems clean. It is difficult to see what is happening. If I change the firing pin and spring, at least I can do that.

 

[Ronin]

You would have to significantly oversize your brass to cause ignition problems

Typically a firing pin moves forwards .055” to .065” in most rifles

Significant oversizing of brass would be .005 “ making the case a loose fit in the chamber

That is not enough to cause ignition problems

Your issue is a obstruction cause by crap in the bolt tube or a weak firing spring which happens with age and number of cycles

One is a zero cost fix the other about 80£ and two mins work to fit

 

[Donkey Basher]

This thread has mentioned brake cleaner, lighter fluid and diesel for cleaning - and combinations of two of them, like they do different things. Is this really true? Aren't they all just effectively oil solvents?

Brake cleaner/carb cleaner etc is a very light solvent that will remove oil etc & evaporates quickly so no point trying to soak anything in it. Diesel, paraffin, etc are a ‘heavy’ oil that will soften up gunk & wont evaporate if you leave the item in it overnight for example. Diesel then washed off using the lighter brake cleaner etc.

 

[little hawk]

I will strip the bolt again and doubly ensure the inside is cleaned out completely of any debris. And change the firing pin and spring assembly via a gun dealer.

Thanks

 

[Donkey Basher]

I will strip the bolt again and doubly ensure the inside is cleaned out completely of any debris. And change the firing pin and spring assembly via a gun dealer.

Thanks

I’d give the inside of the bolt tube a good clean using a PB or nylon brush after soaking/softening overnight.

If that doesn’t work, then try a new firing pin - they come with the spring fitted.

If you were local to me, I have a spare T3 firing pin you could try - if you have another T3 or know anyone local to you who has one then maybe try using that to see if the problem goes away before ordering a new one.

 

[Bowland blades]

You wont need a new firing pin , it will be crud inside the bolt or a plain worn out spring . Its not a hard thing to fix nor an expensive one and besides getting parts you should have it sorted within an hour . If you need the knowledge of disassembly / assembly you should easy find that on u-tube

 

[bluesako]

what ronin said, and bowland blades above, dirty grunge stopping the fireing pins full travel very eazy fix

 

[KimE]

The last time had a misfire, last week, the round was hit very lightly- hardly touched at all. Compared to other spent cases, you can see a decisive primer indentation. I am thinking that the case resizing may be over done on the misfires, but they look the same. The pin is fine. The inside of the bolt seems clean. It is difficult to see what is happening. If I change the firing pin and spring, at least I can do that.

If you use reloads you might not have seated the primers deep enough making the primer to take energy from the firingpin before it hits the bottom of the primer pocket.