Monkey Sticks !!

Right, Ive been meaning to post this for a while!
What follows is a step-by-step guide of how to make the most stable shooting sticks you will ever use for about £10 !!
Firstly, get down to a DIY type garden centre and purchase 4 of their 1.8m plastic coated garden canes (which are actually metal tubes). They cost about £2.50 each.

1. Select 2 of them which we will then shorten by 2-4" depending upon your height. You should see a small ridge at about 1cm from the flat top end of the stick which is where the blanking plug meets the metal tube. Cut gently around this with a stanley knife and remove the plug with a pair of pliers or grips.

2. Next, mark a line around the tube where you will then cut with a hacksaw. I remove 4" and I'm about 5' 10". If you are taller, you should remove 2" and see how they fit. You can actually get canes longer than 1.8m if you are VERY tall! Refit plug and glue it in or use tape as shown. You should now have 2 longer and 2 shorter ones:
View attachment 28104View attachment 28105View attachment 28106

3. Next, we need to secure the poles together in pairs as shown below. You can do this with any stretchy type material which will last. I have used some fairly thin Bungy cord on these with a simple clove hitch and reef knot with a 'glob' of gorilla glue in the reef knot to stop it coming undone. I have also used car inner tube cut into strips, exhaust support rubber, large 'O' rings/Grommets and 'Martingale' rubber rings which you can get from horse tack shops. Any method will work, but dont do it too tight or you'll not be able to open them!
View attachment 28107View attachment 28109
4. Next you need to orientate the sticks to suit whether you are left or right handed. Shown below is for right handed - so that the shorter stick is where your face will be when in the aim. We did this to both so that they will always be this way whichever way around you have the sticks!;)
View attachment 28108
5. You now need to secure the bottom ends of the sticks together by the same method. (Note - you are now joining the two pairs together and not tying the same stick together at both top and bottom!):doh:

6. You are now ready to mount your rifle onto them and work out the best distance to have them set apart. Once you have discovered what suits you best, place a length of cord over the longer uprights so that your sticks will then open to this distance every time. The wider you can get them the better really as it will provide more stability. As a guide, I find that just inside the front and rear sling studs is about right.
View attachment 28110View attachment 28111View attachment 28112View attachment 28113View attachment 28114
You now have a set of very practical sticks!
They can also be opened and used as a normal 'twin stick' bipod for close or hurried shots. They are light to carry and also serve as a single stick when bunched together for steadying binos. For kneeling or sitting shots, simply open the bottom ends wider and you have height adjustment!
You may find them slightly awkward to begin with, but a bit of practice with a rimfire after bunnies or similar and you will never want to use anything else!
Because both the back and front of the stock are supported, you will find that you can shoot as good from these as you can from the prone position! They can only really move fore-and-aft so you should keep your feet in more of a fore-and-aft position to aid stability also. Better still if you can get you back against a tree or similar. These are great for stalking in flat open countryside as a standing shot gives more look-down angle for safety than sitting or kneeling. However, you will find that they are so solid from the standing position that you will never need to kneel or sit again! I can easily group 1" off these at 100m!:cool:
Have fun!
MS:)

Thanks for posting that, going to pop to B&Q tomorrow!
 
If you want to make them even more stable try a 5th stick.
my mates and myself have a extra stick with a loop of cord
which loops over the front sticks.
if you hold the sticks together it's as solid as a rock.
also you can let go of the rifle and it will remain ready for action.
another idea is to put Larson trap springs inside the bolt holes
which makes them self opening.
They are more of a pain to Carry but the extra support is well worth a try
 
I swear by the B&Q quad sticks I have. [I also have a set of Viperflex sticks, but by B&Q sticks are my go-to solution]

One variation on the DYI theme: I favour stainless bolt fixings in preference to cord bindings. It is not a lot more work and sticks open more fluidly.

sticks.webp
 
Ok, it’s five years after this ended, but I have to say thank you for sharing this MS. I made a set a few weeks ago and used them the first time today, albeit on paper target.For less than £15 I have a really useful tool for summer when bucks present a shot at 100-200yd but the cover is so high a prone or kneeling shot isn’t possible.

i have looked at the expensive options and I always thought they would be a faff to set up but with a cord to set length of span they just set up naturally. It will need some practice with 22 to save money but I can hold aim securely on a target at 150yd. Maybe not quite as steady as prone but on even ground maybe so. And I’d probably be able to shoot from them up to 200yd once I’ve put some time in on the range.

brilliant idea, and although lots of folk talk about using garden canes etc they don’t share detailed instructions. And you have saved me £90 and I have the pleasure of using something I have ‘made’ with my own hands. Cheers
 
But they’re not green KB.... the deer would see them and take offence

I doubt they would be any more likely to spook and scatter if they saw hazel sticks rather than with the real thing, proper genuine B&Q plastic coated ones...

Ah sorry, my mistake...you said "take offence" not "take a fence"

Alan
 
Damn inflation! 6 and bit years on from MS' original post, the same canes cost me the princely sum of £15 from Homebase earlier this week

Now hoping to get them fashioned into quad sticks as per MS' instructions.
 
The back piece is cut to allow your cheek to rest on the but. Ive cut both mine(front and rear) so it doesn't matter which way you have the sticks. You will always have a cut section at the rear.
same q as allantoo why leave one side long ? are we missing something ?
great idea been to b and m today got 4 sticks
 
Right, Ive been meaning to post this for a while!
What follows is a step-by-step guide of how to make the most stable shooting sticks you will ever use for about £10 !!
Firstly, get down to a DIY type garden centre and purchase 4 of their 1.8m plastic coated garden canes (which are actually metal tubes). They cost about £2.50 each.

1. Select 2 of them which we will then shorten by 2-4" depending upon your height. You should see a small ridge at about 1cm from the flat top end of the stick which is where the blanking plug meets the metal tube. Cut gently around this with a stanley knife and remove the plug with a pair of pliers or grips.

2. Next, mark a line around the tube where you will then cut with a hacksaw. I remove 4" and I'm about 5' 10". If you are taller, you should remove 2" and see how they fit. You can actually get canes longer than 1.8m if you are VERY tall! Refit plug and glue it in or use tape as shown. You should now have 2 longer and 2 shorter ones:
View attachment 28104View attachment 28105View attachment 28106

3. Next, we need to secure the poles together in pairs as shown below. You can do this with any stretchy type material which will last. I have used some fairly thin Bungy cord on these with a simple clove hitch and reef knot with a 'glob' of gorilla glue in the reef knot to stop it coming undone. I have also used car inner tube cut into strips, exhaust support rubber, large 'O' rings/Grommets and 'Martingale' rubber rings which you can get from horse tack shops. Any method will work, but dont do it too tight or you'll not be able to open them!
View attachment 28107View attachment 28109
4. Next you need to orientate the sticks to suit whether you are left or right handed. Shown below is for right handed - so that the shorter stick is where your face will be when in the aim. We did this to both so that they will always be this way whichever way around you have the sticks!;)
View attachment 28108
5. You now need to secure the bottom ends of the sticks together by the same method. (Note - you are now joining the two pairs together and not tying the same stick together at both top and bottom!):doh:

6. You are now ready to mount your rifle onto them and work out the best distance to have them set apart. Once you have discovered what suits you best, place a length of cord over the longer uprights so that your sticks will then open to this distance every time. The wider you can get them the better really as it will provide more stability. As a guide, I find that just inside the front and rear sling studs is about right.
View attachment 28110View attachment 28111View attachment 28112View attachment 28113View attachment 28114
You now have a set of very practical sticks!
They can also be opened and used as a normal 'twin stick' bipod for close or hurried shots. They are light to carry and also serve as a single stick when bunched together for steadying binos. For kneeling or sitting shots, simply open the bottom ends wider and you have height adjustment!
You may find them slightly awkward to begin with, but a bit of practice with a rimfire after bunnies or similar and you will never want to use anything else!
Because both the back and front of the stock are supported, you will find that you can shoot as good from these as you can from the prone position! They can only really move fore-and-aft so you should keep your feet in more of a fore-and-aft position to aid stability also. Better still if you can get you back against a tree or similar. These are great for stalking in flat open countryside as a standing shot gives more look-down angle for safety than sitting or kneeling. However, you will find that they are so solid from the standing position that you will never need to kneel or sit again! I can easily group 1" off these at 100m!:cool:
Have fun!
MS:)

Brilliant thank you very much
 
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So about a year ago I made some shooting sticks from the plastic coated B&Q poles (not the hollow ones). Bit of flex in them put I dont put masses of pressure on them. Found two more in the garage so just turned them into the quads.

Paracord, innertube and fabric glue.

20220712_173202.jpg20220712_173155.jpg
 
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