The OP is asking about target, not hunting so .243 largely redundant, unless in a modern fast twist.
Great answer, so my main rifle I know will be the 22lr as I can get to the range midweek no problem with the opening hours around work:life balance with kids etc….
I never actually thought about getting a full bore until I knew there were club days to a full bore range. And figured why not lol
So my second rifle and my occasional use rifle will be the full bore so ideally I’d like it to reach further as then it’s a kinda Jack of all trades. As weekend times will be limited and I’ll be splitting the time I have between clays and full bore.
I think the consensus is .223 and 6.5/30cal so I’ll need to have a good look around. A .223 would be good as I can then start on the lower range and then move up and I have a rifle as a deposit for a bigger calibre.
I see my cabinet being - 5 max, one slot a shotgun, 2rimfires, 1 full bore but it could be 2 of each I suppose.
I might check on the .223 for the indoor range as I’m sure it was mentioned it was fine for that. But that would be 25-45 yards which isn’t that great is it
I never actually thought about getting a full bore until I knew there were club days to a full bore range. And figured why not lol
So my second rifle and my occasional use rifle will be the full bore so ideally I’d like it to reach further as then it’s a kinda Jack of all trades. As weekend times will be limited and I’ll be splitting the time I have between clays and full bore.
I think the consensus is .223 and 6.5/30cal so I’ll need to have a good look around. A .223 would be good as I can then start on the lower range and then move up and I have a rifle as a deposit for a bigger calibre.
I see my cabinet being - 5 max, one slot a shotgun, 2rimfires, 1 full bore but it could be 2 of each I suppose.
I might check on the .223 for the indoor range as I’m sure it was mentioned it was fine for that. But that would be 25-45 yards which isn’t that great is it
Hi All,
I shoot clays and air rifles. Going for my FAC soon and recently joined a club where I’ve shot some various disciplines and rifles. They have some access to full bore ranges that I will visit shortly too. I only planned to do rimfire but after speaking to club members it’s obvious I’ll end up getting 1-2 full bores too as well as 1-2 rimfires.
Since then I’ve been diving into reviews and YouTube about first rifles and calibres etc….
I’ll be selling of a few air rifles and shotguns which will leave me one of each and space for 5 rifles in my cabinet when the time comes. I know how it works when you try and buy one or two
But as always that’s how I aim to start out, I’ve settled on a bergara B14r .22lr and I also want to get the big brother of this in fullbore in the future.
Full bore and calibre questions
1) My issue is I don’t know enough yet about the full bore stuff. I will get info from club members too but wanted to start gathering information.
Currently I see people chatting a lot about 6.5 creedmore and PrC are these the go to now? A club member suggested the .300 win?
Can people please give me some advice on this please. Get a .308 or 6.5 creedmoor, apply for a slot for a .223 as well even if you don’t fill it immediately.
2) I want to get the B14 HMR i like the look of the wilderness version but I’ve read reviews the premium is the better option. Looking for views on this and if anyone has these rifles please. - mixed reviews, you don’t see a huge amount about. A howa is a safer bet or a tikka.
Budget wise I think once I’ve sold some stuff I’ll be able to purchase both the 22lr and the higher spec HMR but if I can save money with the wilderness version then brilliant/new scope lol
3) scope wise I have some decent scopes when I did shoot rifles that will do me / might be fit for purpose. If not I can sell them and get some good optics. What is the go to magnification and spec for full bore? Moa mil etc….- for target a decent hawke or bushnell elite will work, you can extend into top end makes but unless you’re getting into serious competition I’d start with a mid range scope and shoot for a year or 2 then specialise from there. Mag range 6-24 is good, moa or mil makes little difference just make sure reticle and adjustments match- FFP is my preference for target but SFP works too.
Ammo
1) should o be sorting and storing ammo in those plastic boxes you see? Currently I keep my 12g cartridges in their cardboard boxes within an ammo safe with silica. If I do need them what’s the best options - absolutely no need for these unless you’re reloading.
Depends on the velocity limit of the indoor range, many are low as they are old pistol ranges.
Just take note ,Hi All,
I shoot clays and air rifles. Going for my FAC soon and recently joined a club where I’ve shot some various disciplines and rifles. They have some access to full bore ranges that I will visit shortly too. I only planned to do rimfire but after speaking to club members it’s obvious I’ll end up getting 1-2 full bores too as well as 1-2 rimfires.
Since then I’ve been diving into reviews and YouTube about first rifles and calibres etc….
I’ll be selling of a few air rifles and shotguns which will leave me one of each and space for 5 rifles in my cabinet when the time comes. I know how it works when you try and buy one or two
But as always that’s how I aim to start out, I’ve settled on a bergara B14r .22lr and I also want to get the big brother of this in fullbore in the future.
Full bore and calibre questions
1) My issue is I don’t know enough yet about the full bore stuff. I will get info from club members too but wanted to start gathering information.
Currently I see people chatting a lot about 6.5 creedmore and PrC are these the go to now? A club member suggested the .300 win?
Can people please give me some advice on this please.
2) I want to get the B14 HMR i like the look of the wilderness version but I’ve read reviews the premium is the better option. Looking for views on this and if anyone has these rifles please.
Budget wise I think once I’ve sold some stuff I’ll be able to purchase both the 22lr and the higher spec HMR but if I can save money with the wilderness version then brilliant/new scope lol
3) scope wise I have some decent scopes when I did shoot rifles that will do me / might be fit for purpose. If not I can sell them and get some good optics. What is the go to magnification and spec for full bore? Moa mil etc….
Ammo
1) should o be sorting and storing ammo in those plastic boxes you see? Currently I keep my 12g cartridges in their cardboard boxes within an ammo safe with silica. If I do need them what’s the best options
Target shooters without already having an FAC for hunting say need a probation period of attendance at a Home Office club of a fair while before they can but anything because they wont have the fac yet . The guys down at the club will no doubt put you on the right path. You might already know this well but its best said again than not at all eh?
As regards range work out to say1000 yards , its very hard to better the 308 Win . This means you are not getting out gunned by superior speeds and wind drift shooting by those shooting better bullets etc as you are protected in "Target rifle" Factory 308 target loads is one of the most available of any
Respectfully, I disagree. If this is a new shooter to centerfire rifles, and has intentions to shoot out to 1000yds, a .308 is a handicap in recoil as well as wind drift. There are much better cartridges for a new/beginning long range shooter.
Getting a new shooter on target at range is paramount, to getting them into the sport, long term. A .308 is just handicapped when calling wind, for even an experienced shooter. A 6.5 Creedmoor has less recoil, and is much more forgiving to a new shooter learning to call wind. I concede (and agree) that a .308 is an excellent tool to learn more detailed wind calling skills, but only because it requires it. For a new shooter, that can be, all too often, frustrating and demoralizing. For new shooters, a positive experience is a much more desirable outcome, initially. Once they have all the basics worked out, only then is it advisable to take on a cartridge that requires more skill to use at long range (whether it be because of increased wind calls, or increased recoil).
JMTCW...but with many years of being an instructor, behind that.
No that wasn't what i meant at all ! In no way can a 308 compete with a lot of other rounds at 1000 yards or less ( depending on air dencity ) its normally going to be transonic . What it has going for it is in comes under "Target rifle class" so the shooters of 308 only compete with 223 and 308 . The creed , 260, the PRC s 6.5-284 etc etc can all kick its Ass when shot with an equal shooter.
Handicaps yes 100% but not when shooting Target Rifle ( the actual discipline ) not a a rifle used for target shooting but the class it competes in BIG DIFFERENCE ! Perhaps i should have made that more plain for those who haven't competed
Shooting 308 is a very good entry to long range paper and steel in the above respect, also all the other stuff like ammo , barrel life , availability of good target spec factory rounds etc etc
Hope that clears things up
<chuckle> I think we're splitting hairs. If overall score was the goal, then yes, I concede that a 308 would "likely" result in a higher score/ranking in that class.
But for sheer hit percentages (not competition), the 6.5CM would be a better choice IMHO.
FastMacK
Well-Known Member
My trainer is a Ruger Precision Rimfire in 22LR. Its a super and accurate wee platform. I own the B14 Wilderness in 6.5 Creedmoor and have shot it out to 1200y at Bisley using factory ammo. If you want to get into PRS though you'd be better going for a chassis system. I stuck mine in a MDT ACC chassis eventually.
A good bolt action .223 that runs 69gr or heavier factory ammo is also cheap, effective and accurate out to 600y on Century at Bisley (you get real good at reading wind that way too!).
If your club has an FTR section, then the .223 is good trainer for the jump to a .308 running 168gr ELDMs (a good factory starter but you'd need to reload to really get the benefit there).
As a curve ball, I'm now running a handloaded 6mm Creedmoor and its amazing. It outshoots my 6.5mm and my .308.
I'd stay away from magnums until you've more experience as the recoil sucks and if your shooting inside 1000y you don't need it.
A good bolt action .223 that runs 69gr or heavier factory ammo is also cheap, effective and accurate out to 600y on Century at Bisley (you get real good at reading wind that way too!).
If your club has an FTR section, then the .223 is good trainer for the jump to a .308 running 168gr ELDMs (a good factory starter but you'd need to reload to really get the benefit there).
As a curve ball, I'm now running a handloaded 6mm Creedmoor and its amazing. It outshoots my 6.5mm and my .308.
I'd stay away from magnums until you've more experience as the recoil sucks and if your shooting inside 1000y you don't need it.
not only that but the creed couldn't even enter under the "target rifle" class . Hey i dont own a 308 and i haven't had one in a good while over 15 years or more since i last even shot comps . But that the one if your paper punching . TR and FTR events are held all over the UK , decent factory target ammo is available at fair prices and then there is lots of cheap stuff . The guy was talking getting into target shooting outside going into open class and spending heavy on factory ammo that often isn't available. Its very much the way to go and it is far more shooter against shooter . Its also a great choice for the McQueens and other shorter range events where getting the best possible BC is largely a lesser factor 200-300 yard stuff
Hmmm...this seems to be turning into an argument, just to argue. <Shrug>
I don't believe the OP said which specific (if any) "target shooting" he was planning on doing. And as such, perhaps I just took it as "shooting at targets", not FTR or TR. <shrug>
As far as shorter range stuff...6.5CM can push a 120gr bullet 300-400fps faster than a 308, 168gr load. Shorter time of flight means less wind drift. Less recoil. etc. etc. etc.
The 308 is a great hunting round, but it's day is sun setting for anything long range.
But, I guess we'll just each have our own opinions, and the OP can decide for themselves.
A creedmoor will outgun the .308 at 1000 any day of the week.
It’s is ALWAYS an argument for the sake of an argument when bowland blades gets involved
Yeah the difference is very noticeable between the 6.5s (CM or x47) in our club and the .308s.
Shooting stickledown Sunday, I’ll be using my 26” creedmoor not my 20” .308! Also, the K31 just for sh*ts and giggles.
For your .22LR the CZ LRP is a very good platform. Centrefire, Tikka T3x, in 6.5/30 cal. Neither will break the bank, especially if you can get second hand.
Sorry you didn't get TR and FTR and how popular it is not all of us have a lot of experience in target shooting . Hey my main rifle is a 6.5mm not a creed but a 260 rem. I think your getting rattled because you are in a different nation but the majority are far and away UK based shooters . Its not opinions , we pay higher prices for ammo and rifles and when we fit a new barrel it has to go to go off to proof . Repeat myself here but i haven't owned a 308 myself for a long while but for a New shooter looking to get shooting its a slightly cheaper and a more level playing field. There is no issues here on my part , you could likely put a British shooter on the right path in the USA .
Thanks for the comment, not checked here in a while. Got my fac no issues.
Got a 6.5 creed, my bolt 22 and a semi auto 22. My 243 I got on the FAC I now think I won’t need with the 6.5 so I’ll prob drop that or swap out for an under lever for club use.
Having a blast at the range with the rifles and even now done my dsq1
.308 is awsome. Good out to 1000 and that’s if you have that distance to shoot.
Go for .22 cz lrp
.308 bergara b14 hmr which I have one.
.223 if it just target look at tikkas or Remingtons.
Go for .22 cz lrp
.308 bergara b14 hmr which I have one.
.223 if it just target look at tikkas or Remingtons.
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