Programming Freelander Key fob.

[FrenchieBoy]

[FONT=&quot]Ok guys, I was having a few problems (Electric windows/central locking/ rear door/ alarm, etc not working correctly) which I put down to a dodgy CCU so I ordered a replacement CCU over the week-end. I had to use my Freelander (A Mk1 X Reg Diesel) on Monday locked the car by manually with the key as the electronic locking system was not working. (Which I again put down to the dodgy CCU)[/FONT]
[FONT=&quot]Up until then the engine had been running/driving just as it should![/FONT]
[FONT=&quot]I did what I needed to do but when I returned to the car and unlocked it (manually with the key) and went to start it the alarm warning light stayed on permanently (It had not showed before I shut the engine down and parked it) and the motor would not even turn over, it was just as if the immobiliser had somehow kicked in. There was nothing I could do for it for I had to wait till Tuesday (Yesterday) for the replacement CCU to arrive. (I should add at this stage that when I ordered it and when it arrived I made a point of very carefully making sure that I had ordered and received the correct one - Part number YWC 106390 27VT CCU etc)
I fitted the replacement unit yesterday late afternoon and found that I had a further major problem. Very few of the electrics controlled by the CCU worked - The electric windows will work - The central locking will not work - My key fob will not lock or unlock the doors and there is no sign of the alarm warning light even though all the other warning lights work correctly - When I try to start the engine it will start normally but will only run for about 1.5 to 2 seconds and then cuts out just as if it is being "switched off" at the ignition[/FONT]
[FONT=&quot]I should add that before I took the old CCU off and replaced it with the new one I disconnected the battery - I'm not sure if this was necessary but I thought it best to do so.[/FONT]
[FONT=Segoe UI, Segoe UI Emoji, Segoe UI Symbol, Helvetica, Arial, sans-serif]I have read on the land rover forums that you need to program the key fob to the replacement CCU and have found a "sequence" of things you need to do for this.
Can anyone advise please rather than me having to pay some extortionate call out charges to an Auto Electrician to do this for me.

According to the Internet the sequence I need to carry out to reprogram my key fob is as follows:

[/FONT]Land Rover 1996 (Oval Shape)
Procedure
1. Ensure ignition is OFF, doors unlocked, bonnet switch closed.
2. Ensure procedure from 3 to 9 is completed within 8 seconds.
3. Switch Ignition ON
4. Switch Ignition OFF
5. Lock Doors and Unlock Doors
6. Release Bonnet Switch
7. Switch Ignition ON
8. Switch Ignition OFF
9. If alarm is set, horn will sound and LED with light. Now programming of plips can be completed.
10. Press and hold down button on plip until LED flashes.
11. Repeat for additional plips.
12. The dash LED will extinguish if both plips have been programmed successfully.

 

[Cottis]

It sounds like witch craft but you would be amazed how you can reprogramme new fobs to work. I did one for my VAG car a coupla years back. It was something random like put the spare key in the ignition, shut the door, put the new key in the door lock, lock, unlock, lock, press and hold the open button blah blah blah. Anyway, after a couple of false starts, all hell broke loose and the alarm and hazards starting going nuts. I pressed the unlock button on the new fob and it stopped and has now worked perfectly since. I was and still am amazed.

Anyhow, that ovvo won't work for your Freelander but it would not surprise me if something similar did. It does sound like you have an immobiliser issue though. I am not familiar with the Freelander but most immobilisers are controlled by a small chip that sits in the key fob somewhere. Depending on how you have to dismantle your old key to transfer to the new fob, might mean you need to dig the chip out and install in to the new fob. Not 100% sure on this for your car but it is definitely the case with VAG cars as i have now done a couple. The electrics in the fobs simply open the locks via IR and the comfort control modules in the car operate all the alarm systems based on this unlocking I think. In terms of the engine being able to start or not, that is allowed if the little immobiliser chip is in close proximity to the ignition upon start up. Engines will turn over and run for a second and them simply cut out. That sounds like the immobiliser is doing its job to me.

Good luck, these things are a PITA to sort out sometimes but you will get there and hopefully without a £200 call out

 

[FrenchieBoy]

I've just spoken to my local Land Rover Specialists (Green Brothers Ltd) in Littleborough. They told me that they had never had to change a CCU nor did they even know what the CCU controlled - To me that was quite unbelievable!

 

[Woodsmoke]

It sounds as though it was just the battery in the remote key fob that has died? Should've been merely a simple battery change and a fob reprogram

 

[adm]

Hi why not try the landrover forums somebody will help i'm sure

 

[adm]

Just had a thought a low battery can cause them problems

 

[Skietindiekop]

The sequence is correct for the oval fob but you have the squared type fob I believe?
If it’s the same as P38 Range Rover setting you need to put the key in the door lock and operate the correct lock/unlock buttons while turning the lock to the corresponding position to code the central locking. Once this works the transponder in the key should read properly when the key is put in the ignition.