Quick release RTZ mounts

[ironmatt]

Hi all,

Im wanting to put picatinny rails on my 2 sako 85's in order to be able to swap my C50 and (soon to be purchased) thermion. One sako will have a swaro z6i fitted the majority of the time, but wanted the option to put nv or thermal on to save me taking a second rifle for foxing after ive been stalking. The other sako will only ever have the C50 and thermion fitted.

What return to zero mounts seem to get the best reviews and perform the best? Read a lot about innomounts? Are there any other brands to consider? My preference would be one piece. Any experiences, good or bad would be most appreciated.

Cheers

Matt

 

[paulbshooting]

I have pica rails on all my rifles. I don't use quick release mounts but found tier 1 and Warne to hold zero when ocassionally swapping optics.

 

[FISH BOY]

Been using Innomounts on my two main centrefires for the last couple of years - like you run day and night scopes on each.

Found them to be very good, but would suggest the following tips.

* due to fractional rail width differences, they are not interchangeable between rifles/rails
* when mounting and setting up for the first time - secure the T20 torx head cam latch nut on the tread with some T243 loctite for peace of mind. Only had one come loose over time, but did result in a material loss of zero
* when fitting your scope to be zeroed (and every time when used) - pull back the scope/mount so the recoil bar of the Innomount sits flush and locked on the rail. This will give a repeatable zero.

Mine are on/off weekly and have provided great service. Not cheap, but very easy to use and they do bring other benefits of easier cleaning and storage to both rifle and scope.

 

[r judd]

Been running Innomounts on my two main centrefires for the last couple of years - like you run day and night scopes on each.

Found them to be very good, but would suggest the following tips.

* due to fractional rail width differences, they are not interchangeable between rifles/rails
* when mounting and setting up for the first time - secure the T20 torx head cam latch nut on the tread with some T243 loctite for peace of mind. Only had one come loose over time, but did result in a material loss of zero
* when fitting your scope to be zeroed (and every time when used) - pull back the scope/mount so the recoil bar of the Innomount sits flush and locked on the rail. This will give a repeatable zero.

Mine are on/off weekly and have provided great service. Not cheap, but very easy to use and they do bring other benefits of easier cleaning and storage to both rifle and scope.

Not to pick on your method of returning the scope onto the rail but how come you are pulling back and not pushing forward?

 

[FISH BOY]

Not to pick on your method of returning the scope onto the rail but how come you are pulling back and not pushing forward?

My logic is that recoil goes backwards, so therefore there is nowhere for them to move.

Either way - it’s about having them in the same place every time.

 

[r judd]

My logic is that recoil goes backwards, so therefore there is nowhere for them to move.

Only reason i ask is i am too looking at setting the rifles up like this. Currently running a rifle with a rail and everything i ever read or was told was to push the scope forward before tightening.

 

[Kevgun]

Yes pushing it forwards, then it doesn't move under recoil, pull it backwards and it could move under recoil.

 

[nun_hunter]

Only reason i ask is i am too looking at setting the rifles up like this. Currently running a rifle with a rail and everything i ever read or was told was to push the scope forward before tightening.

Yes you should push the scope forward. Under recoil the rifle moves backwards. The heavier the scope the more resistance to moving it provides so in essence it may not move with the rifle and so 'creeps forward'. This is why you push the scope forward so the mount is against the picatinny slots and has nowhere to move to.

 

[nun_hunter]

Using a picatinny rail I've had good results with a Burris PEPR AR mount and Leupold QR rings. I've also had good results on a Sako 75 using Optilocks and a torque screwdriver to set the screws back.

When I say "good results" I mean shooting rabbits at 120m with a HMR swapping between a day and NV scope and not missing. Also taking scopes off for various reasons, setting them back and checking zero to find I didn't need to make any adjustments or occasionally one ¼ inch click.

If I was shooting 500m+ and wanted reliability then I'm not sure the same rings/mounts would be reliable but I'm also not sure if any others would guarantee the same

 

[FISH BOY]

Yes pushing it forwards, then it doesn't move under recoil, pull it backwards and it could move under recoil.

Yes you should push the scope forward. Under recoil the rifle moves backwards. The heavier the scope the more resistance to moving it provides so in essence it may not move with the rifle and so 'creeps forward'. This is why you push the scope forward so the mount is against the picatinny slots and has nowhere to move to.

Yes indeed thinking about it - annoyingly I had them all forward, but recently at the range changed them to pull back due to reading something on here

At the range in a fortnight so will sort.

Still great mounts.