Return to zero scope mounts
- Thread starter Crowlcat
- Start date
nun_hunter
Well-Known Member
What rifle have you got and what mounting system do you want to use? Picatinny? straight to action?
Bavarianbrit
Well-Known Member
EAW will always work but they cost £400 ish before having a gunsmith fit them, then again with todays ammo prices they will pay for themselves in 2 months 
Hi its on a Tikka T3x with a picatinny rail on top i have a thermal mounted on it for foxing but i want to try different powders and different grn heads so thermal isn't the best scope to try
nun_hunter
Well-Known Member
If you have a decent picatinny rail and a torque screwdriver then you're going to be able to remove and replace and be well within 1MOA as long as you follow the same procedure and technique each time.
Leupold QRW work just fine for me with the same setup.
Heym SR20
Well-Known Member
Many different scope mounts will return to zero. The key is make sure they are fitted well, that rings are perfectly aligned (lapped in etc). What you want to avoid is different stress on the system that then allow different stresses every time its removed / replaced.
Any dovetail system can be made to work with a good return to zero, provided the above is followed. So to will swing mounts such as the Redfield, Leupold or EAW. With the former you have two screws to adjust windage. Once its set, locktite one in place, and use a coin (remember those) to unscrew the other to remove the scope.
What you are looking for is high quality steel rings and bases. I am not convinced by Aluminium is tough enough.
By far the best are German Claw Mounts, but these require lots of precise fitting by a gunsmith.
Any dovetail system can be made to work with a good return to zero, provided the above is followed. So to will swing mounts such as the Redfield, Leupold or EAW. With the former you have two screws to adjust windage. Once its set, locktite one in place, and use a coin (remember those) to unscrew the other to remove the scope.
What you are looking for is high quality steel rings and bases. I am not convinced by Aluminium is tough enough.
By far the best are German Claw Mounts, but these require lots of precise fitting by a gunsmith.
Dentler
I found the optilock mounts on my sako 75 returned pretty much to with in 1/2moa when using torque settings.
Had my tikka out and switching scopes, found a system and protocol of torquing up the rings in a set order that enabled return to zero to with in 1/2moa and repeated it 5 times to make sure it did-so have confidence in doing it.
Had my tikka out and switching scopes, found a system and protocol of torquing up the rings in a set order that enabled return to zero to with in 1/2moa and repeated it 5 times to make sure it did-so have confidence in doing it.
All you need is a very good rail and correct positioning on the mounts on the rail. Mounts on my N470s are excellent. I use Burris Zee signature mounts and leave them on my scopes. Just take bolts out and slide off rail. This is where you find out if you have a good rail. I mark the exact positioning on the rail with a marker pen. You can use a torque wrench but I just tighten up by hand. I just cannot understand why Burris Zee signature rings are not used more widely.
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I had some Leupold ones in the past which where fine
I’m going to have to (partially) disagree here.EAW will always work but they cost £400 ish before having a gunsmith fit them, then again with todays ammo prices they will pay for themselves in 2 months
I think they may work well if only used rarely. I found the ones I inherited on a bought gun got very slack very quickly, and were extremely difficult to troubleshoot and return to consistency. In the end I got rid of them and went to a rail with Recknagel mounts, and never had any problems.
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