Rust in new barrel?

[SSN100]

I have a new Kimber .308 it was cleaned when it arrived with Boretech Eliminator, nylon brush and patches. It has only been out twice in dry conditions and has only fired about 20 rounds for testing ammunition and zeroing it was “broken in” and cleaned between each 3 round group when testing different ammunition. It was thoroughly cleaned - bore, chamber and action, after its last firing. Each time I take it out the barrel appears mucky and a patch comes out like below. I re clean it, put it away and three days later the same thing. I have a silica bag in the cabinet and have a vp90 sachet in there. I can’t figure out what’s going on. I’ve carried rifles round soggy welsh hills, deserts and the jungle and never had a rusty barrel, but can’t seem to keep this clean. The old side by side in the same cabinet is fine.

Any suggestions?

 

[.25-06]

Looks like when cleaned it's needing some oil in the barrel

 

[SSN100]

Looks like when cleaned it's needing some oil in the barrel

I’ve tried putting it away dry and running an oily (bisley) patch through. Same result.

 

[viking90]

The way I stop rust is 15/40 engine oil, it clings and doesn't run off like thin gun oil. I fill the oil bottle cap up and soak the patch in that before running it down the bores a couple of times

 

[.25-06]

Is there some residual cleaning chemical left behind? My R. 700 is a bit frisky in the rain, needing a good dry clean and oiling barrel patches tend to be black not rusty though

 

[Will the chippy]

The way I stop rust is 15/40 engine oil, it clings and doesn't run off like thin gun oil. I fill the oil bottle cap up and soak the patch in that before running it down the bores a couple of times

Chainsaw chain oil would work too, not the boi stuff. It's designed as anti fling.

 

[SSN100]

Is there some residual cleaning chemical left behind? My R. 700 is a bit frisky in the rain, needing a good dry clean and oiling barrel patches tend to be black not rusty though

I wondered that, but have been pretty through with the action and chamber. Made up a little device out and a rubber washer cut to match the bolt to make sure lugs were really clean. I did wonder if there is some grease or something migrating from the barrel threads and recoil lug, which are the same configuration as a rem 700.

 

[HandB]

I have had similar experiences and I think some steels love to rust and there's not much one can do about it. Steel composition is a factor imho. I suggest just shooting it like you stole it and if it still manages to shoot tight groups then don't worry too much as the bullets will scrape out the rust.

 

[Jura]

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I use Kano Kroil in my barrels never had any rust even after long-term storage.

 

[Fowler1990]

I have had similar experiences and I think some steels love to rust and there's not much one can do about it. Steel composition is a factor imho. I suggest just shooting it like you stole it and if it still manages to shoot tight groups then don't worry too much as the bullets will scrape out the rust.

I have a 223 that has a barrel like the surface of the moon bit still shoots boringly well with 69gn.
Suspect the barrel is not stainless. Good clean out and liberal oil required. Then pull through before heading out.

 

[Steff]

I have a new Kimber .308 it was cleaned when it arrived with Boretech Eliminator, nylon brush and patches. It has only been out twice in dry conditions and has only fired about 20 rounds for testing ammunition and zeroing it was “broken in” and cleaned between each 3 round group when testing different ammunition. It was thoroughly cleaned - bore, chamber and action, after its last firing. Each time I take it out the barrel appears mucky and a patch comes out like below. I re clean it, put it away and three days later the same thing. I have a silica bag in the cabinet and have a vp90 sachet in there. I can’t figure out what’s going on. I’ve carried rifles round soggy welsh hills, deserts and the jungle and never had a rusty barrel, but can’t seem to keep this clean. The old side by side in the same cabinet is fine.

Any suggestions?
View attachment 322107

What you are seeing is residue from the factory rust protection grease they apply after proofing. Use a BRONZE brush, not nylon, with Ballistol and give it 40 passes. It'll be gone then.
Here's a picture of a brand new barrel's cleaning.

 

[finnbear270]

I reckon that isn't rust, see it sometimes on one of mine, & I clean religiously, but sometimes I can see it in relation to one groove on a patch ... my bores are mirror bright.

 

[Utectok]

Have a look with a borescope then you will know what it is….

 

[Stalker-of-the-deer]

Just give it a scrub every so often and throw a lightly oiled bore snake through after every outing, even if you don't fire it.

My sauer was the same for a bit but once the barrel settled down it was fine, took me about 50-75 rounds to stop it

 

[SSN100]

What you are seeing is residue from the factory rust protection grease they apply after proofing. Use a BRONZE brush, not nylon, with Ballistol and give it 40 passes. It'll be gone then.
Here's a picture of a brand new barrel's cleaning.



View attachment 322129

I also wondered about storage grease. I have put a lot of patches through, but maybe the oil in the barrel is softening it in storage and then it’s coming off when I put a new patch through. Wil give it another scrub.

 

[Steff]

I also wondered about storage grease. I have put a lot of patches through, but maybe the oil in the barrel is softening it in storage and then it’s coming off when I put a new patch through. Wil give it another scrub.

Patches won't help you much on this. The same goes for nylon brushes. You really need to use a bronze brush with plenty of oil. Good luck.

 

[bluesako]

a couple of patches with j. b. compound on them will sort your problam out

 

[6.5-06 TIKKA]

I agree with above, a phosphor bronze brush is softer than the steel.
Nylon brushes usually have metal cores that can score the barrel too.

 

[ejg]

Every new rifle I get especially blued rifles I would wash with boiling soap water as well as scrub the barrel with hot soapy cif mixture. Flush with a kettle of boiling water, dry and flush with wd40. Then patch and oil. This removes aggressive chemicals from the manufacturing process.
Before doing that I had a blued LW barrel that would get rusty within a few hours out in the damp. The water based wash cured it.
edi

 

[Demetrius]

A good squirt of brake cleaner on a patch, work up and down 15 or 20 times, repeat as necessary with a fresh patch until the brown colour disappears.....that will remove any grease.
Then, if you know anyone who has a borescope...?

D