Sako carbonlight in .308
- Thread starter DamaDaz
- Start date
when laden with scope, mod, sling, ammo and bipod they weigh just like anything else
I build a package for a chap
DPT mod
Swaro Z8i
Optilocks
Z-Aim
Harris
came in at 9lb 10oz
I build a package for a chap
DPT mod
Swaro Z8i
Optilocks
Z-Aim
Harris
came in at 9lb 10oz
I have had two .308 carbonlights, do a search of my threads and have a read of my fun.
I have a carbonlight in .308 that works now, but the light weight short barrel only likes 123gr Sako gameheads.
The first one didn't shoot at all and was replaced by gmk, I thought the second was the same but after lots of testing at the calton moor range with mike tweaking action bolt torque settings and trying different ammo it settled on sub 1" at 100m with 123gr.
They are a bit fast for roe and can do a little more ore damage than a heavier slower bullet, but I have shot reds just fine with it.
It is a surprisingly nice smooth rifle despite the weight, even mike was suprised. Not so nice without a moderator.
I have a carbonlight in .308 that works now, but the light weight short barrel only likes 123gr Sako gameheads.
The first one didn't shoot at all and was replaced by gmk, I thought the second was the same but after lots of testing at the calton moor range with mike tweaking action bolt torque settings and trying different ammo it settled on sub 1" at 100m with 123gr.
They are a bit fast for roe and can do a little more ore damage than a heavier slower bullet, but I have shot reds just fine with it.
It is a surprisingly nice smooth rifle despite the weight, even mike was suprised. Not so nice without a moderator.
+1... that's only 1oz lighter than my Howa 1500 with pretty much the same components. The difference in weight between the add-ons will make as much difference to gross weight as the bare rifle. Barrel length is a major factor, many of the .308 mountain rifles over here are 18" or 20", and the guys have a good quality 3-9 scope and they carry them all day, as opposed to slinging them.
Sorry to be a fly in the ointment, much I say tread very carefully. GSP84's unfortunate experience is not the only one with bad bores I know of with lightweight Sakos. Sadly, over here amongst my circles at least, the Sako brand is beginning to be seen as throwing away good money on a flash brand that delivers no benefits over a rifle half the price that shoots sub-MOA with pretty much anything. The 85s and A7s seem to be throwing up heaps of problems, the premium Sako brand from the days of the classic Vixens and 75 Hunters etc is being eroded fast, bad bores being at the top of the causatives list.
A few weeks ago I picked up an old early 90s (?) 75 Hunter in .308 with hard wear on the stock and bluing (scratches) but very few rounds down the pipe, and she's a ripper! By the time I've tidied it up, shortened the barrel and the stock length of pull to Remingtom Model 7 size to suit my boy, I wonder how much more it will actually weigh over a Carbonlight? One pound?
Its a growing grumble I think, the "pay more for less" weight debate. Lightweight rifles with thin contour barrels can be very fussy in my limited experience of them. The recoil in lightweight rifles increases significantly and thats going to challenge you accuracy wise shooting in less than ideal positions, its a fair boot in the shoulder with a 165 or 180gr pill. Thin contour barrels get silly hot when shooting strings and POI wanders all over the place.
Your alternative options are numerous and should be explored fully before you commit, that's my advice. Edinburgh Rifles was on the money - weight is a non-issue with all the add-ons in the equation. But a lightweight barrel that won't shoot straight after a couple of quick rounds is not a non-issue.
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The accuracy of a rifle would be important to me at least. Standard T3 light sized barrels seem to be the lowest size I would go. I have a Lothar Walther with the same dimensions as a T3 lite, fitted to a 1909 Mauser sitting in a carbon stock, accuracy mag system and pica rail. Rifle weighs 2.9kg and is very handy when fitted with an ultra light moderator. 10 rounds at 400m seem to stay on target.
If I wanted to really save weight I would start with a T3, not with a Sako as the standard T3 floorplate including magazine only weighs around 73 grams. Must be much lighter than a Sako. I would use ultra light alu rings instead of heavy Optilocks. Get the stock down to under 600 grams (my son made me one before) This would get you around 2.6kg start weight with a useable accuracy and non fluted barrel. The carbon material in stocks seem to soak up recoil better according to reports we get back, some say a rifle fitted with a carbon stock that is 500 grams lighter than the original shoots more comfortable.
Of course all bits added on to a rifle add weight, that is why one should choose components carefully. Every component should be chosen by weight vs performance. Want a long range scope then a old 6.5-20x50 Zeiss Conquest (under 600 grams) is my choice, Meopta sells similar (same??) in the US. Haven't found a 20 mag scope that could match the optical performance, target turrets at that weight. I use Harris bipods but have fitted a few Neopod fittings into stocks which seem a very interesting lightweight solution. I use an old 5 baffle Roedale prototype ultralight moderator from the first batch which weighs only 175 grams. It has hundreds of shots through it even in competitions.
At the end of the day, take a standard T3 lite and fit lighter add-ons and you will carry less than a carbolite with wrong add-ons.
Most efficient way to save weight is the stock, often increasing accuracy if done right. I would not skimp on the barrel size.
edi
If I wanted to really save weight I would start with a T3, not with a Sako as the standard T3 floorplate including magazine only weighs around 73 grams. Must be much lighter than a Sako. I would use ultra light alu rings instead of heavy Optilocks. Get the stock down to under 600 grams (my son made me one before) This would get you around 2.6kg start weight with a useable accuracy and non fluted barrel. The carbon material in stocks seem to soak up recoil better according to reports we get back, some say a rifle fitted with a carbon stock that is 500 grams lighter than the original shoots more comfortable.
Of course all bits added on to a rifle add weight, that is why one should choose components carefully. Every component should be chosen by weight vs performance. Want a long range scope then a old 6.5-20x50 Zeiss Conquest (under 600 grams) is my choice, Meopta sells similar (same??) in the US. Haven't found a 20 mag scope that could match the optical performance, target turrets at that weight. I use Harris bipods but have fitted a few Neopod fittings into stocks which seem a very interesting lightweight solution. I use an old 5 baffle Roedale prototype ultralight moderator from the first batch which weighs only 175 grams. It has hundreds of shots through it even in competitions.
At the end of the day, take a standard T3 lite and fit lighter add-ons and you will carry less than a carbolite with wrong add-ons.
Most efficient way to save weight is the stock, often increasing accuracy if done right. I would not skimp on the barrel size.
edi
2130martin
Well-Known Member
I have both and wouldnt have spent the extra money for that reason,not noticed any difference in stiffness.
Claret_Dabbler
Well-Known Member
For carbonlight money, you could have a Sako75 rebarrelled by a decent smith with a Walther barrel and restocked in a McMillan, and it would shoot....
Or start with a T3 and have better options. I'd take a T3 over a 75/85 any day.
edi
2130martin
Well-Known Member
Claret_Dabbler
Well-Known Member
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