Same rifle, different chassis/stock.

ShootingInTheShires

Well-Known Member
Morning everybody.

I'm just doing some thinking out loud. I have a Howa 1500 which I currently have just purchased a new chassis for and waiting for it to arrive. The new chassis will be use mainly for target shooting and long range foxing off a tripod. I think it will be too heavy to lug around stalking in the woods. I was thinking about getting another lighter weight chassis/stock so I that I can carry it round the woods a bit easier if I am stalking, then I can just swap between the two as and when I please. This would save me buying a whole new rifle for each discipline. Does anybody else do something similar, I'd imagine I would have to rezero between the two chassis. Would the rezero be consistent, i.e if I knew chassis (A) is zeroed and then swapped to chassis (B) and it was a couple of clicks on the scope difference would this be the same adjustment every time and therefore would only have to figure it out once and not rezero every time? I know the only way to find out is to test it, just wondering if this is a common thing and anybody does something similar.

I know......stop thinking out loud, it's dangerous.

Cheers.
 
Yeah was thinking the same. If those are correct I think the zero would be pretty consistent with decent a decent scope mount as well.
or, save the zeroing ammo and potential loss of confidence in your head, and spend £200 on an old school rifle (243, 270, 25-06 all cheap these days) for the woods. You get to buy another rifle!!
 
How often do you intend to alternate? It seems like something that could become very quickly quite tedious if you are out twice a week. The main disadvantage of switching kit is losing confidence: after a miss, “Did I tighten the stock properly?” Then becomes before you take the shot: “Did I tighten the stock properly?”

I would just cope with the heavy chassis in the interim and put in a variation for a second, lighter, rifle today as you seem to have justification already. Then if you eventually get fed up of the heavy rifle weight you will be already set to get yourself another, lighter, Howa 1500.
 
or, save the zeroing ammo and potential loss of confidence in your head, and spend £200 on an old school rifle (243, 270, 25-06 all cheap these days) for the woods. You get to buy another rifle!!
I think this will inevitably happen, just puts me off going through the rigmarole of varying my FAC as I only have space for the one rifle (which I already own)
 
How often do you intend to alternate? It seems like something that could become very quickly quite tedious if you are out twice a week. The main disadvantage of switching kit is losing confidence: after a miss, “Did I tighten the stock properly?” Then becomes before you take the shot: “Did I tighten the stock properly?”

I would just cope with the heavy chassis in the interim and put in a variation for a second, lighter, rifle today as you seem to have justification already. Then if you eventually get fed up of the heavy rifle weight you will be already set to get yourself another, lighter, Howa 1500.
Not often I don't think. I'm only recently getting into stalking so don't go very often but hoping this will increase, I'd probably guess that it would spend 80% in the heavier set up, 20% of the time in a stalking set up. Yeah i think you are correct and this will happen anyway eventually. Just wondered if the logic was correct and somebody did something similar.
 
Not often I don't think. I'm only recently getting into stalking so don't go very often, I'd probably guess that it would spend 80% in the heavier set up, 20% of the time in a stalking set up. Yeah i think you are correct and this will happen anyway eventually. Just wondered if the logic was correct and somebody did something similar.
The logic is definitely correct and the engineers among us will manage it perfectly every time. This might be you, I do t know. For me I’d have the question in my head about whether I got the torque setting right etc. that’s no fun when you’ve stalked a deer and are ready for a shot. Then the shot isn’t perfect and you have more variables to work out why. And all that. I’d get a cheap accurate wood and blued deer rifle and learn to love it. There’s loads of them about.

It’s sort of worse that you’ll be stalking with it so little. You won’t have the time and experience using it to get confident. Or I wouldn’t in that scenario.
 
i tried this , the majority of the weight is in the barrelled action and scope

i now have two creedmoors , a 20" gun in a pse composites stock and a 24" gun in an MDT ACC folding competition stock

two rifles is the best solution , changing stocks is a fag
 
i tried this , the majority of the weight is in the barrelled action and scope

i now have two creedmoors , a 20" gun in a pse composites stock and a 24" gun in an MDT ACC folding competition stock

two rifles is the best solution , changing stocks is a fag
Thanks for the info. I think that is now the way I am leaning. How do you like the ACC folding? Been very tempted by one of these previously
 
Thanks for the info. I think that is now the way I am leaning. How do you like the ACC folding? Been very tempted by one of these previously
i love it !

i'm a big old lump (6'4'') and the folder adds much needed length in the stock , less suitable for little people
 
Morning everybody.

I'm just doing some thinking out loud. I have a Howa 1500 which I currently have just purchased a new chassis for and waiting for it to arrive. The new chassis will be use mainly for target shooting and long range foxing off a tripod. I think it will be too heavy to lug around stalking in the woods. I was thinking about getting another lighter weight chassis/stock so I that I can carry it round the woods a bit easier if I am stalking, then I can just swap between the two as and when I please. This would save me buying a whole new rifle for each discipline. Does anybody else do something similar, I'd imagine I would have to rezero between the two chassis. Would the rezero be consistent, i.e if I knew chassis (A) is zeroed and then swapped to chassis (B) and it was a couple of clicks on the scope difference would this be the same adjustment every time and therefore would only have to figure it out once and not rezero every time? I know the only way to find out is to test it, just wondering if this is a common thing and anybody does something similar.

I know......stop thinking out loud, it's dangerous.

Cheers.
I have done exactly this.

I had a custom 6.5x47 Lapua built on a Tikka M595 action, this was then bedded into the original Continental stock using both pillars & devcon so it is a perfect fit & can be retorqued accurately each time it is put in. In this configuration it is a stalking rifle which with moderator, scope, bipod, etc. weighs less than 5.5kg.

I also have a bespoke modified AICS AW chassis for the same rifle which is used for long range target & McQueen shooting.

Swapping between the two stocks the point of impact changes by about 1/4”. I keep the ‘zero’ on the rifle for its stalking configuration as that’s when first shot counts; for the target shooting I can live with being slightly off on the first sighting shot. Also worth noting that at 100 yards there is no discernible difference between point of impact of the 120gn pro hunters & 142gn matchkings in either stock.

There’s only one way you’ll know for sure whether you can do it with your set up is to try it, but in theory it should work provided that you can repeat the installation each time you swap.
 
I have done exactly this.

I had a custom 6.5x47 Lapua built on a Tikka M595 action, this was then bedded into the original Continental stock using both pillars & devcon so it is a perfect fit & can be retorqued accurately each time it is put in. In this configuration it is a stalking rifle which with moderator, scope, bipod, etc. weighs less than 5.5kg.

I also have a bespoke modified AICS AW chassis for the same rifle which is used for long range target & McQueen shooting.

Swapping between the two stocks the point of impact changes by about 1/4”. I keep the ‘zero’ on the rifle for its stalking configuration as that’s when first shot counts; for the target shooting I can live with being slightly off on the first sighting shot. Also worth noting that at 100 yards there is no discernible difference between point of impact of the 120gn pro hunters & 142gn matchkings in either stock.

There’s only one way you’ll know for sure whether you can do it with your set up is to try it, but in theory it should work provided that you can repeat the installation each time you swap.
Cheers mate. Useful info. Was it 1/4inch difference at multiple distances?
 
How much are the two chassis combined? Would it not be easier and possibly slightly cheaper to buy one better quality but lighter chassis and then add picatinny or m-lok weights to it if needed for range use? Or fit an effective muzzle brake to reduce recoil on the lighter chassis?
 
I run 2 different stock/chassis my 223 Tikka CTR, the basic stock it came in for the few times I need to shoot without a bipod and not prone. I have a GRS Ward for target stuff.
It is a bit of a faff to change, but I take that opportunity to fully clean the action and barrel, so it feels like it not wasted time or effort. The Warg makes it more difficult than say an MDT Oryx. But notwithstanding that, I’m happy enough.
 
I run 2 different stock/chassis my 223 Tikka CTR, the basic stock it came in for the few times I need to shoot without a bipod and not prone. I have a GRS Ward for target stuff.
It is a bit of a faff to change, but I take that opportunity to fully clean the action and barrel, so it feels like it not wasted time or effort. The Warg makes it more difficult than say an MDT Oryx. But notwithstanding that, I’m happy enough.
Are you having to rezero every time?
 
I thought about doing this as I had 2 Tikka T3xs, one a 223 in a GGS stock and the other a 308 in a TAC A1 chassis, and I wanted to swap stocks sometimes. After giving it a fair bit of thought I decided to go for leaving each rifle in the same stock and working up a single load for each one. That way I have total confidence they are both zeroed every time I pick them up.

Not everyone's way but this works for me.
 
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