None of those rings are what I would consider to be of a high standard/quality...
Scope Ring Lapping
- Thread starter KaramojoBell
- Start date
None of those rings are what I would consider to be of a high standard/quality...
I've just invested 2 hours into cleaning my rifle as the 'STOP NECK SIZING' man said to...
This. As all my 'scopes were one inch Zeiss were in Redfield type turn in rings (except where the gun as bought came with a better system of rings) I used a section of one inch wooden dowel to turn in the front ring a few times and then a length of one inch steel pipe to finally align the two rings and the job is done. Then remove the two top halves of the rings and fit the scope into the bottom halves which you have aligned with the steel pipe. Trouble is nowadays you can't get true one inch steel pipe any longer! If there is an issue with bad alignment of the rings the matter is better sorted by sorting out the bases and the union between the bases and the rifle receiver by removing metal from the bases where they fit the receiver of the rifle.
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Just line each half of the ring with inner tube repair cement:
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True 1" pipe was drawn also not "true" in respect of being like ground stock but close enough for lining up a scope where the biggest error is the person using the rifle.
To be honest any thread like this is wasted as a large number of shooters are not interested in any form of hands on
experiences as they won't have an "App" or be able to book in advance lol
levigsp
Well-Known Member
Maybe not but you have to look at what people buy, use and can afford. I have seen many rifles over the years and seen so many different mounts its unreel. I measured those as they were laying in my spares.
I leave you with this, Some of the London gun makers use some of the best cnc machinery etc.
But they still smoke, lap and hone by hand for perfect fit.
mounts and rings could be machined with similar results, but they are then coated and treated etc, that changes profiles and no opne will tell me otherwise, unless someone is going to tell me that my very old Moor & Wright measuring equipment is wrong.!
KaramojoBell
Active Member
Is there a reason you only turn the 'front' ring with the wooden dowel? Also do you just turn the dowel dry, with no paste or solution?
no lol
KaramojoBell
Active Member
Because the so-called Redfield system, other manufacturers of the period available such as ……… , uses a rear base & ring that is adjustable for windage and the ring does not engage within the base but rather sits upon it and is clamped either side with large custom contoured headed screws that engage with milled recesses.
I never liked this based on the aesthetic, never mind the inherent weakness of design, so always purchased two sets of rings & bases and used the second front base/ring on the rear.
A totally useless bit of info but now you know!
K
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KaramojoBell
Active Member
Yeah, cheers Tim, got my 30mm dia stainless and an old broomstick,havin'a go for sh*ts and giggles.
not all that period kit was up to scratch...to complicated.
Just a drop of oil on the two "prongs" on the turn in ring. That's all. Not dry but definitely no grinding or lapping paste or powder. Just normal oil. Grease if you've no oil to hand. Wood dowel as being normal softwood it is that is what is sacrificed if the rings are stiff to turn in. The steel pipe for the final alignment as...as another said...it's not precision 1" machined but good enough for the purpose wanted. The do the screws in a sequence as you would when torquing down a cylinder head using a feeler gauge to check the gaps at the each side of the rings are equal. No need really for these torque wrench Wheeler devices. If a thing like rings and mounts looks right to the eye when done then it usually is right.
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This reminds me of the story of the USA vs USSR in the space race.
Both nations needed something that their astronauts could use to write on paper, on plastic, on metal in zero gravity, upside down, in all temperatures from warm to freezing cold. When dry or when wet.
The USA spent millions of dollars on weeks and months, nay, years of research and trials and tests and came up with the "spacepen".
The USSR gave their astronauts chinagraph pencils.
Both nations needed something that their astronauts could use to write on paper, on plastic, on metal in zero gravity, upside down, in all temperatures from warm to freezing cold. When dry or when wet.
The USA spent millions of dollars on weeks and months, nay, years of research and trials and tests and came up with the "spacepen".
The USSR gave their astronauts chinagraph pencils.
KaramojoBell
Active Member
Thanks for taking the time to explain.
On a set of rings where there is only one screw on each side it'd be tightened down as you would a car wheel held on by four wheel nuts. On a set of rings with two screws on each side (so eight screws in total) I'd tighten down in a sequence as you would the nuts car cylinder head held down by eight studs. Yes the wood dowel is to "turn in" the front ring into its base. Sorry. I didn't mean rotate it around inside the ring as a sort of lap. Only to turn in that front ring a few times so that it mates with its base using a dowel and not as some apparently do using the actual 'scope itself as if it were a tommy bar. That's just nasty to the 'scope!
Some of US turn-in bases had a tensioning grub screw. The base is clearly split to allow this.
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Some US turn-in bases had a tensioning grub screw. The base is clearly split to allow this ‘pinching’ and indeed lock-up to occur.
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