Seating depth

spready

Well-Known Member
Just after some advice. Ive been running up some rounds for my .222 , 50gr vmax over some rs36 powder . Ive found a load that gives me a very good velocity that don't change much over over a string of shots but find them inaccurate down range . Would adjusting the seating depth ( its currently 2.13) improve the groups? Or should i adjust the powder charge? Im running 50gr ppu and have a very accurate load. But thought i would swap to vmax as its easier come by round my way

Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated thank you
 
I tend to load a range at 1/2 grain increments (for my .223 anyway) and see which works best for me. You'll generally find two accuracy nodes, most likely at opposite ends of the velocity scale. I tend to mess with powder loads and just seat to minimum COAL myself
 
If your loading to fit in a mag length wise , shoot at a piece of card board with aiming points on it , try three shot groups and increase or decrease your powder by 0.2/0,3 grains and you will see a accuracy node .
If your group is not very good now you are at the beginning or end of a node .
 
As above, load to mag length and tweak the charge. RS36 is around the same speed as H4198 and RL7, both of which are good powders for this cartridge, so starting at 18.7gr and going up to 19.9 in .3gr increments should find you a node. 19.9 is a smidge over book max, but I would be surprised if you got pressure signs.
.222 is a great chambering to load for and I would expect groups that can be covered by a 5p to be easily achievable.
When you get the accuracy you are seeking you can seat the bullet deeper in 10 - 15thou increments to fine tune your load.
 
Just after some advice. Ive been running up some rounds for my .222 , 50gr vmax over some rs36 powder . Ive found a load that gives me a very good velocity that don't change much over over a string of shots but find them inaccurate down range . Would adjusting the seating depth ( its currently 2.13) improve the groups? Or should i adjust the powder charge? Im running 50gr ppu and have a very accurate load. But thought i would swap to vmax as its easier come by round my way

Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated thank you
You may see improvement from changing the seating depth, or changing charge weight. The V Max is a very accurate projectile. Changing both powder charge and projectile will give a whole new set of variables. I would change one thing at a time.
 
I’m far from an expert. I load a few different loads. But my two personal favourite are my .308 loads. Both of which I adjusted the seating depths on till I got even tighter groups after adjusting power weight. So yes I think it does make difference. Positive or negative.
 
Sorry cannot do links but if you go on y-tube, "how to develop a long range amo load in 12 shots " by " Elevation rifles" ------his starting seating depth is 20,000 off.

Dave (warbucks)
 
Just after some advice. Ive been running up some rounds for my .222 , 50gr vmax over some rs36 powder . Ive found a load that gives me a very good velocity that don't change much over over a string of shots but find them inaccurate down range . Would adjusting the seating depth ( its currently 2.13) improve the groups? Or should i adjust the powder charge? Im running 50gr ppu and have a very accurate load. But thought i would swap to vmax as its easier come by round my way

Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated thank you
Is the group strung out in a particular direction? At what range do you think it holds a good group?
 
you cant built a load correctly without a chrono or doing the ladder test to find optimum powder charge (chrono is quicker and less shot) then play with seating depth
Personally I've never used a ladder test, but **** the very best groups I can with each load.
I once read, that if you getting anything else wrong, don't get the seating depth wrong. This is why I use Berger Hybrid bullets, as seating depth becomes irrelevant, so you can concentrate on the powder charge, and if you feel you really must, then play with seating depth.
Use quality brass, not, sat, cr*ppy Winchester brass. Use Norma, Lapua, or RWS brass, and in my experience, Federal Match Primers.
I've always annealed my cases on every reload.
Also, make sure you don't have a carbon ring at the start of the lands, as this applies to any calibre.
Loads of other things to check, but I'd look at these things first.
 
you cant built a load correctly without a chrono or doing the ladder test to find optimum powder charge (chrono is quicker and less shot) then play with seating depth
Yes you can, I don’t personally dint have a chronograph for donkey years!

But I was sensible about the ranges I shot at, it’s called common sense!

When it comes to seating depth, I just made half a dozen x 5 rounds and what ever grouped best I used

You long think too much
 
Yes you can, I don’t personally dint have a chronograph for donkey years!

But I was sensible about the ranges I shot at, it’s called common sense!

When it comes to seating depth, I just made half a dozen x 5 rounds and what ever grouped best I used

You long think too much
hence why you dont shoot at longer ranges you loads arnt accurate or consistant,but what is sensible ranges ?? isnt that down to the operators skill and confindence ???
 
hence why you dont shoot at longer ranges you loads arnt accurate or consistant,but what is sensible ranges ?? isnt that down to the operators skill and confindence ???
Using those loads back then I killed deer cleanly out to 400yds, as long as you know your drops away you go!

Talk about making life complicated!

It’s called confidence and experience the rest falls into suit!

Never have been a long range paper puncher, in my personal opinion it’s a waste of bullets

I’m a stalker not a wannabe sniper
 
Using those loads back then I killed deer cleanly out to 400yds, as long as you know your drops away you go!

Talk about making life complicated!

It’s called confidence and experience the rest falls into suit!

Never have been a long range paper puncher, in my personal opinion it’s a waste of bullets

I’m a stalker not a wannabe sniper
Oh it's that easy lol I'll leave it there then
 
Personally I've never used a ladder test, but **** the very best groups I can with each load.
I once read, that if you getting anything else wrong, don't get the seating depth wrong. This is why I use Berger Hybrid bullets, as seating depth becomes irrelevant, so you can concentrate on the powder charge, and if you feel you really must, then play with seating depth.
Use quality brass, not, sat, cr*ppy Winchester brass. Use Norma, Lapua, or RWS brass, and in my experience, Federal Match Primers.
I've always annealed my cases on every reload.
Also, make sure you don't have a carbon ring at the start of the lands, as this applies to any calibre.
Loads of other things to check, but I'd look at these things first.
Seating depth is relevant. Jam them to far/hard and you can potentially be heading for a world of problems. Similarly if loaded to far from the lands a bullet would be seated deeper into the case thereby reducing case volume and potentially causing pressure issues.

Some bullets, ie those with a secant ogive often prefer to sit closer to if not into the lands whilst those with tangent ogives often prefer to sit further away and are less fussy. Having said that every rifle/bullet combination is different so what works for one might not work for the other.
If you do go for jamming your bullets do so very carefully, in small increments, and watch out for pressure signs.
 
Some guy you are bey you don't even clean your brass and fire them 10 times
Oh no my brass is spotless!

And for the record, I don’t clean primer pockets either, that’s another waste of time.

Look if you wanna make life complicated for yourself carry you on!

There is no dark art in making your own ammunition!
 
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