My goal is 10 firings, and I do clean my brass.
Seating depth
- Thread starter spready
- Start date
breakout 103
Well-Known Member
Wow well that's one thing but why isn't that a waste of time
I like clean brass and less schmoo coating the inside of my dies. Tossing brass in the tumbler and walking away to do other things is multitasking
Jim Hutton
Well-Known Member
Reloading is a black art. There are so many variables such as bullet head type and weight, powder charge, powder type, crimp, depth of heads, overall length and so on. Start by checking the powder manufacturers tables and work from there. Chron if you can because if the velocity isn’t consistent then you will never get reliable results.
breakout 103
Well-Known Member
Exactly but the special people say all that is a waste of time and make kills to 400 yard lol hate to think what group size and SD is like
I go to the experts that make the powder or bullet (or both), use their data for most accurate load and if it works for me then I am as happy as a dog with two d!cks.
I am not a sniper who gets to shoot of a steady rest each time, so for a deer stalking round I am trying to better what I can buy on the shelf, and I have been managing that for a while now (even with copper
)
I have Norma brass at the mo, been using that for a while, then I have a load of PPU I will use. Only brass I found to be Sh!te is American stuff.
Was using Remington primers until I could not get them now have hunners of CCI.
Only issue that has come up recently is copper rounds being much shorter in AOL than the equivalent standard due to bullet shape. I went back asked the expert and problem was solved.
So seating depth is very, very important, especially if you don’t want a bullet stuck in the barrel when your cleaning rod is 100 miles down the road and cannot pop it back out.
You can get very anal about reloading but if you enjoy it and have resources then why not?
I did recently.
I can now shoot 130gn copper and 150gn (308) without changing my zero, how’s that for being anal? Took me a couple of visits to the target to sort that one out.
I do like a wee challenge as much as the next person.
I am not a sniper who gets to shoot of a steady rest each time, so for a deer stalking round I am trying to better what I can buy on the shelf, and I have been managing that for a while now (even with copper
)I have Norma brass at the mo, been using that for a while, then I have a load of PPU I will use. Only brass I found to be Sh!te is American stuff.
Was using Remington primers until I could not get them now have hunners of CCI.
Only issue that has come up recently is copper rounds being much shorter in AOL than the equivalent standard due to bullet shape. I went back asked the expert and problem was solved.
So seating depth is very, very important, especially if you don’t want a bullet stuck in the barrel when your cleaning rod is 100 miles down the road and cannot pop it back out.
You can get very anal about reloading but if you enjoy it and have resources then why not?
I did recently.
I can now shoot 130gn copper and 150gn (308) without changing my zero, how’s that for being anal? Took me a couple of visits to the target to sort that one out.
I do like a wee challenge as much as the next person.
Edit, just looked and the brass is Lapua not Norma but it’s the same thing, decent stuff.
Privi (PPU) stuff is agricultural but I used to shoot it as it was cheaper than reloading when I did numbers and I have loads of brass left. Much better than the Yank stuff (IMHO)
Privi (PPU) stuff is agricultural but I used to shoot it as it was cheaper than reloading when I did numbers and I have loads of brass left. Much better than the Yank stuff (IMHO)
farrieral
Well-Known Member
It's clearly a passionate subject for some 
I've never owned or read a reloading manual.... I had a crash course by some very experienced reloader friends, who shoot more in a season than most will in a lifetime. Topped it up with a few videos off the YouTubesssss.
Do a bit of research on what bullet and powder combo will work via the Vhit app. & more YouTubesss (some Stalking Directory browsing, skipping the handbags at dawn posts)... Normally find suggested seating depth is near enough bob on...
Picked, chose and added to the process I was shown. Bought things to streamline the process, shiney things...
Produce rounds that consistently shoot .5" groups out of 3 different rifles and cailbres, happy... with nice and low SD & ES to boot.
I think when you boil it down it is a very simple process and you can make it as simple or as complex as you want.
The biggest variation is folks using incorrect terminology
Happy new year
Ps. I do clean primer pockets cus I have a shiney electric prep station
Haven't tumbled my brass for at least 4 firings and deer still keep ending up in the chiller!
I've never owned or read a reloading manual.... I had a crash course by some very experienced reloader friends, who shoot more in a season than most will in a lifetime. Topped it up with a few videos off the YouTubesssss.
Do a bit of research on what bullet and powder combo will work via the Vhit app. & more YouTubesss (some Stalking Directory browsing, skipping the handbags at dawn posts)... Normally find suggested seating depth is near enough bob on...
Picked, chose and added to the process I was shown. Bought things to streamline the process, shiney things...
Produce rounds that consistently shoot .5" groups out of 3 different rifles and cailbres, happy... with nice and low SD & ES to boot.
I think when you boil it down it is a very simple process and you can make it as simple or as complex as you want.
The biggest variation is folks using incorrect terminology
Happy new year
Ps. I do clean primer pockets cus I have a shiney electric prep station
Haven't tumbled my brass for at least 4 firings and deer still keep ending up in the chiller!
Norfolk Deer Search
Well-Known Member
Group size was clover leaf at zero, zeroed 1” high 100 yds, deer was lowland hind from a high seat, scope was 8x56 Schmidt bender, calibre was 270 win, bullet drop was about 14” so POA was just about 4” above the shoulder and bang!
Dead deer!
Could take you to the exact spot, to where I took the shot!
Shot 3 that morning, not one was under 230yds, so before you question other peoples achievements, maybe think people do things differently to how you do things.
I stand by what I say, you don’t need a chronograph to load accurate ammunition.
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I put my brass in the dishwasher,
In a pillow case or summat, come out dull as f@ck but clean. Wee bit of Tcut and a cordless drill to shiny them up once built and we are ready to rock.
I am not good enough for clover leafs of the bonnet of the car but I have yet to see someone alongside me on the day who is…
In a pillow case or summat, come out dull as f@ck but clean. Wee bit of Tcut and a cordless drill to shiny them up once built and we are ready to rock.
I am not good enough for clover leafs of the bonnet of the car but I have yet to see someone alongside me on the day who is…
Norfolk Deer Search
Well-Known Member
That works
The three most important steps in producing an accurate round are powder, bullet, seating depth.,So to answer the OP original question seating depth can and does make a really big difference to accuracy. Seating depths have nodes just the same as powder, the trick is finding the node and then finding out how big that node is, if you’re lucking it will be 5 or 6 thou wide.
One thing I will say before I retire from this is that paper (or any target) is very unforgiving and can ruin your confidence.
I shot targets with my son and he was flinching but still got them all in a 4” group.
The deer would be dead I assured him and the next morning it was, less time to think is no bad thing
I shot targets with my son and he was flinching but still got them all in a 4” group.
The deer would be dead I assured him and the next morning it was, less time to think is no bad thing
Norfolk Deer Search
Well-Known Member
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