Sharpening a Fallkniven F4
- Thread starter YoungGun
- Start date
deerstalker.308
Well-Known Member
Kitchen knives, pocket knives, torches & binoculars | Knivesandtools
The specialist in kitchen knives, pocket knives, multitools, torches, binoculars and outdoor tools. Largest offer and the best prices for all top-brands!
www.knivesandtools.co.uk
Steel production can be traced back to the 13th century BC.
The magnifying glass was invented in the 13th century AD.
It is frankly amazing that they managed to cut anything during the intervening 26 centuries
To the OP; send your knife off to @Longstrider to get it fixed….and buy a breastbone saw.
The magnifying glass was invented in the 13th century AD.
It is frankly amazing that they managed to cut anything during the intervening 26 centuries
To the OP; send your knife off to @Longstrider to get it fixed….and buy a breastbone saw.
Utectok
Well-Known Member
convex blades can be sharpened by removing metal off the entire blade. However this is time consuming and destroys the finish on the blade. Mostly they get sharpened on they front edge wich is usually very close the bevel angle used for sharpening.Kitchen knives, pocket knives, torches & binoculars | Knivesandtools
The specialist in kitchen knives, pocket knives, multitools, torches, binoculars and outdoor tools. Largest offer and the best prices for all top-brands!
Overlay
Well-Known Member
Gotta say guys
I Will put my hands up, I’ve messed up one or two decent blades in my time by trying toooooo hard and not understanding the grind angle
the only grind i can sharpen and do with confidence is a straight flat grind, it’s not a bone cutter but really is razor sharp grind like a razor on all of them
i have a proper blade belt grinding machine and a lansky pro but rarely are they used probably just for general purpose knives and my small axes
hence everyone of my knifes are flat grind except for one Alan wood and a Emberleaf these I use for the bigger species,. Treated correctly they only need is a good strop up to bring them back
i have a small bone saw for the field and a bone shear for the larder
i did send my emberleaf back for a tidy up but that was due to me using it like a hatchet my fault entirely, the Alan wood is bombproof and without a doubt the best knife i’ve ever owned and used
my only bit of advice is if you aren’t 100% on sharpening and its a decent blade send it back for a refurb, nothing worse than having deer to gralloch and your knife on your belt isn’t up to the job
I Will put my hands up, I’ve messed up one or two decent blades in my time by trying toooooo hard and not understanding the grind angle
the only grind i can sharpen and do with confidence is a straight flat grind, it’s not a bone cutter but really is razor sharp grind like a razor on all of them
i have a proper blade belt grinding machine and a lansky pro but rarely are they used probably just for general purpose knives and my small axes
hence everyone of my knifes are flat grind except for one Alan wood and a Emberleaf these I use for the bigger species,. Treated correctly they only need is a good strop up to bring them back
i have a small bone saw for the field and a bone shear for the larder
i did send my emberleaf back for a tidy up but that was due to me using it like a hatchet my fault entirely, the Alan wood is bombproof and without a doubt the best knife i’ve ever owned and used
my only bit of advice is if you aren’t 100% on sharpening and its a decent blade send it back for a refurb, nothing worse than having deer to gralloch and your knife on your belt isn’t up to the job
Utectok
Well-Known Member
This is pretty foolproof although you do need to invest in a couple of finer grades to get the best out of it. The 600 grit is the most versatile
Removal of chips from a Fallkniven edge takes a bit of doing if you maintain the original profile of the convex grind. As long as the edge isn't too deeply chipped it's often better to re-profile the grind to a slightly more obtuse angle. This is done by removing steel from about 1/2 to 3/4 of the convex grind (from edge back towards spine) and working each side evenly until a new, un-chipped edge is created. This can then be taken through the grits and given a final stropped polish to leave it hair-popping sharp.
BTW ... if you closely study the factory "full convex" on most Fallkniven blades you'll soon discover that most of them are not in fact full convex at all. Most have a small flat or even slightly concave section between the spine and a point about 1/4 of the way to edge. This is because of the way they are made and in no way detracts from them being a superb piece of steel and a well made knife.
For the OP, I'd recommend a reprofiling and create a new edge that was then NOT used for bone cutting
BTW ... if you closely study the factory "full convex" on most Fallkniven blades you'll soon discover that most of them are not in fact full convex at all. Most have a small flat or even slightly concave section between the spine and a point about 1/4 of the way to edge. This is because of the way they are made and in no way detracts from them being a superb piece of steel and a well made knife.
For the OP, I'd recommend a reprofiling and create a new edge that was then NOT used for bone cutting
Similar threads
