Sharpening knives

I recently bought a Tornek T4 with a couple of their wheels. Used an old knife to learn the craft and understand how to use their angle setting jig and their knife jigs. Once the edge is set you can then go to a mirror polish - if thst’s what yiu like. Then maintain the edge with the honing wheel periodically. Over time re-establish the edge. Works an absolute charm. Admittedly not a cheap option. Great training videos on their website.


Admittedly not the low cost option bit ot works
 
The problem with a steel is most people have no idea how to use it, even wether it's coarse, medium or fine, nobody I know ( including myself!) has ever been Shown how to use one! It's only taken me 25 years of ruining knives to have Sussed it out 😂🤔😇
 
I can appreciate what you have written here. I have one and the clamp is fine for a thin blade but my PHK has a thick (5mm+) blade which it struggles with.
You also have to make sure you put it into the clamp in the same position each time you sharpen it else the angle of the stones in the blade changes and you end up putting a new edge on it each time.
Now I use a photo to get the positioning right!!
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But deal with those two issues and the results are good and nowadays I use the lanky once every 6-8 weeks and the strop every time I go out - keeps it shaving sharp.
This!

I found the lansky very unreliable with thicker blades.
 
If your going to The Stalking Show , visit my stand and I will demonstrate the process of stropping and free-hand sharpening with low cost commercially available diamond stones at our stand . FOC
I will also be bringing a fair few of my wooden backed leather strops and compound , these used regular and you don't honestly require a stone for a very long time. Stones are really mainly about repairing damages or lack of stropping for a longer period of use and frequency . Sometimes the Knifes grinder is required (I wont be bringing these)
That sounds great. I'm a novice hand sharpener so would be keen to get some tips. Thanks in advance!
 
This!

I found the lansky very unreliable with thicker blades.
This is because the thicker blade presents more material to machine away, so I would take a guess as the stone will tend to "roll" over the blade.
I borrow a belt sander with a 2k grit when my collection of knives get beyond the steel then rip a edge back.
Back in the days of panel beating 70/80/90's I would grind "spot weld" drills as the shop brought ones were £5.00 each :eek:
Get the clearance angle wrong and they didn't cut so well!

Cutting meat you don't need a scalpel sharp knife you just need to keep the edge, the last 1/3 of knives never gets used.
 
This is because the thicker blade presents more material to machine away, so I would take a guess as the stone will tend to "roll" over the blade.
That may have contributed to the problem, but the real issue was that with thick blades, the clamp was unable to hold them at a consistent angle.
 
That may have contributed to the problem, but the real issue was that with thick blades, the clamp was unable to hold them at a consistent angle.
That is why I machined a better clamp also with the thickness of your blade the angle of contact is higher so the stone and rod will not align with the guide hole.
This works
Sub forum political post "Axe Grinding" lol
 
That may have contributed to the problem, but the real issue was that with thick blades, the clamp was unable to hold them at a consistent angle.
That’s why I use the photo to make sure my blade is in the same place each time.
I made the mistake after first using it not to do this and ended up regrinding a new edge on the blade because the position was different.
 
I recently bought a Tornek T4 with a couple of their wheels. Used an old knife to learn the craft and understand how to use their angle setting jig and their knife jigs. Once the edge is set you can then go to a mirror polish - if that’s what you like. Then maintain the edge with the honing wheel periodically. Over time re-establish the edge. Works an absolute charm. Admittedly not a cheap option. Great training videos on their website.


Admittedly not the low cost option but it works
Demo video:
 
Having gone through various steels (most are too coarse floor my liking) and with a wicked edge system gathering dust in the cupboard, the best I’ve found is Japanese wet stones. I’ve used ceramic stones on chisels with similar results. Combined with a strop, the result is shaving sharp. It takes a little practice, but once you got it you can sharpen a variety of profiles.

Some examples here Sharpening Archives - Blenheim Forge
 
I’m butchering a lot more deer now for family consumption now and wondering what’s the best sharpener for my knives . All my other gralloching knives I do on my Lansky and I know there not everybody’s cup of tea but I get on ok with this system but the butchering knives are different and somehow take longer to get an edge . Any pointers , thanks .
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Set the basic bevel quickly with one of these…

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Refine the edge with 1000-1200 fine diamond stone, and maintain with very light strokes of a diamond or sintered ruby steel. Hang the steel on your waist with your knife scabbard via a scissors type dog lead clip.

Fast and efficient, though you should only need the grinding wheel once every couple of months, if that.
 

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"A really sharp edge should meet at infinity" Well that's not ever going to happen though it explains things ! Most fixed angle grinders is eat your knife away prematurely .
Unless i need to remove damage or change the grind to suit a new purpose , i would never such a device especially so if there was no full adjustment of the angle . Not sure if i have ever used a powered grinder to simply take the edge back to full sharp .
Some knives only have one side ground , like the left and right Kiridashi knives . I use these for cutting leather as the cut is then 90 degrees ie square
 
This guy shows how to do it and with possibly the cheapest option on stones ever.
Positioning of the blade back halfway up the thumb is the secret to consistency.
For stropping, I have successfully used:
£2.00 honed marble tiles, the back of emery cloth, a leather strop with jewelers rouge and slate block with water. The world is your oyster.
 
This guy shows how to do it and with possibly the cheapest option on stones ever.
Positioning of the blade back halfway up the thumb is the secret to consistency.
For stropping, I have successfully used:
£2.00 honed marble tiles, the back of emery cloth, a leather strop with jewelers rouge and slate block with water. The world is your oyster.

Industrial diamond stones really do work !
 
To get best result i use the strop but that is unpractical when wee Butcher 2 moose in a day, as the hunting clubs knife guy(amateur smith) i usually maintain the blades for everyone. My routine is just hit the steel to realign the edge. When afterca few times The edge break off (normal after hitting the steel a bunch of times as you are basically bending the metal back and forth) its diamond rod, ceramic rod and a quick run on the strop then back to steel.
 
Ok I have just been online and purchased a £36 diamond stone set from a cheap tool store . I plan to use this cheap / easy to find inexpensive item to demo exactly how easy it is to keep your own knife sharp or fix it when its no longer cutting all that well .

Today with the restrictions placed on the sale of knives on-line and sending in the post , it's perhaps the right time for us to do some teaching . At the Bowland Blades stand at the forthcoming The Stalking Show i will break off the selling and give something back . No fee charged for handing down some knowledge !
 
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