Something is definitely not right with my scope
- Thread starter urban
- Start date
If you count 77 clicks from either top or bottom, what does the indicator show?
What kind of 5-shot groups is the Op achieving with so little further elevational adjustment, that I assume is required to permit dialled-in head shots on fallow at 500 yards?
K
K
Just in case clarification is needed (@JTO's benefit - I can sympathise with not reading a long thread carefully)...
Mechanical zero is the mid-point between maximum clicks up and maximum clicks down.
Optical zero is when the reticule is in the exact centre of the field of view (where the optics work best, assessed in this case by the mirror method)
On this scope, in elevation, the optical zero is 15 clicks different from the mechanical zero. That's out of a total range of about 150 clicks. So that's roughly 10%. That doesn't seem so bad, but given that about 60 of those clicks are in the "red zone" (which the manufacturer advises is not ideal) then the elevation range is actually more like 90 clicks and therefore the usable elevation range is reduced by 25%.
Mechanical zero is the mid-point between maximum clicks up and maximum clicks down.
Optical zero is when the reticule is in the exact centre of the field of view (where the optics work best, assessed in this case by the mirror method)
On this scope, in elevation, the optical zero is 15 clicks different from the mechanical zero. That's out of a total range of about 150 clicks. So that's roughly 10%. That doesn't seem so bad, but given that about 60 of those clicks are in the "red zone" (which the manufacturer advises is not ideal) then the elevation range is actually more like 90 clicks and therefore the usable elevation range is reduced by 25%.
RTFQ. Where is the indicator when half way between maximum clicks up and maximum clicks down?
Where does your bullet go when at 'mechanical zero'?
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It might just be me, but I find it hard to grasp the concept of a 'zero' belonging to a 'scope alone, rather than to the combination of 'scope, rifle and ammunition.
The things being described might be better called the mechanical and optical centres, perhaps? In this case, of course in the elevation or y-axis only.
What makes matters worse is the scope pictured is the capped turret version, not like it's being dialled out to shoot 1,000m and back!
I wouldn't discount a fault with your rifle. I once had a 586 on which the barrel was screwed into the frame so that it resembled a ski slope. You could see a wedge of daylight between the forcing cone and front of the cylinder. I had to jack up the rear sight to near maximum elevation to get it on target at 25 yards. It didn't hang around for long.
Tim
Tim
Only with regard to windage.
Or some Burris rings with variable inserts.
No need for that. The question I was answering was "How do you define 'the zeroed setting'?". I'm sorry if you forgot you asked that @JTO.
.
Exactly in the middle. As you would expect.
I haven't tried. Theory would predict that it would be about 30cm low based on the number of clicks between the range zero and the mechanical zero.
U.
In your first post, you said you had zeroed it at 100 meters, but as the thread progressed I began to think you had not fired it.
After being asked three times, you finally supplied the answer!
monarman
Well-Known Member
The most simple solution here has been overlooked by all.....
Take it back and get another scope!!..... simple!!
Secondly.... forget the old skool idea of having the scope as close to the bore as possible..because you WILL see the moderator AND heat mirage through your scope especially on lower mag..... . get a genuine tikka rail on it and use picatinny mounts.... because you can get a better eye relief and have more options for a more normal head position on the stock.
Thirdly..... if the scope hasn't got dialable turrets its a hunting scope designed to be zeroed at a set distance and left alone!!!....
Take it back and get another scope!!..... simple!!
Secondly.... forget the old skool idea of having the scope as close to the bore as possible..because you WILL see the moderator AND heat mirage through your scope especially on lower mag..... . get a genuine tikka rail on it and use picatinny mounts.... because you can get a better eye relief and have more options for a more normal head position on the stock.
Thirdly..... if the scope hasn't got dialable turrets its a hunting scope designed to be zeroed at a set distance and left alone!!!....
Steff
Well-Known Member
On 90% + of all ‚scope‘ problems the mount or work performed on the mount is the problem, not the scope itself.
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