when zeroing my pulsar in the daylight I use aluminium tape. The problem I then have is when doing the 1 shot zero I can’t see my first shot. So I put a small piece of tape where the shot went but what I then find is the two pieces of tape seem to show as one, so fine tuning is very difficult. It’s recommended that you zoom to x12 to adjust & that makes it even worse. I’ve tried the smallest bit of tape but still does the same. Does anyone else have this problem?
Thermal zeroing
- Thread starter Rogerp
- Start date
I don’t. My method is slightly different.
Washer attached to a screw and heated up. Nice and bright.
Screw is in 1/4 inch thick wood. Bullet holes shows up nice and hot on wood.
Follow normal procedure for zeroing your scope.
Washer attached to a screw and heated up. Nice and bright.
Screw is in 1/4 inch thick wood. Bullet holes shows up nice and hot on wood.
Follow normal procedure for zeroing your scope.
G-ray-hound
Active Member
I used the foil method to get close and then measured the gap between the bullet hole and the foil. Then on 3x mag, one click equals 13mm and adjust to that. Scope was a thermion xq50
I have a piece of plywood with a 1 moa circle drilled in the middle. I cover the ply with paper and cut out the hole.
I then tape a hand warmer to the back of the ply. This way what heat you see is quite clear.
When shooting in normal day time conditions you can usually see the bullet impact long enough to use the one shot zero.
I then tape a hand warmer to the back of the ply. This way what heat you see is quite clear.
When shooting in normal day time conditions you can usually see the bullet impact long enough to use the one shot zero.
HonestJohn
Well-Known Member
Thermal targets ?
Second that. I even stick a splatterburst over that hole, it still shows the heat from behind, and the hits easy with some bino's.
Hot hands foot warmers - put three rounds into one of them at100 yards and you won't miss much
Cheers
Bruce
Cheers
Bruce
Put whatever heat source you’re using on box.
Shoot.
Walk up to box, observe hole and measure necessary adjustment.
Return to rifle, consult user manual or inter web for click values (or guess based on past experience). Or even aim at box, where you know the hole to be.
Adjust.
Not really any different to adjusting a standard glass scope. You have to fire a confirmation shot anyway.
Alternatively: put one of the muscular heat pad things on the box. Using a loop of gaffer tape, tape a bit of wet plastic on top (so it stands well proud of the heat pad). The plastic now shows cold black against the hot white of the heat pad. Shoot. Holes in the plastic appear white.
Alternatively: heat gong, set up. Place sheet of cardboard or pizza base or whatever 2-3 inches in front, so gong obscured. Put alu tape on cardboard. Shoot. Holes appear in cardboard where hot gong shines through.
I use this method very effective
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