Thinking of reloading,
- Thread starter Tikkat1x
- Start date
Chelmsford Essex
Bavarianbrit
Well-Known Member
I have lent my set to a toolmaker here who is just starting out to make himself a copy of my set, he has 3 cnc high end lathes and millers etc so knows his stuff, would there be a market for a cheaper knockoff "asking for a friend"not feeling clever, or brave enough to be poring anything into my chamber
i will just order the OAL gauge and bullet comparator then, watched a few youtube videos on them, i recon i can make good use of them, thinking of buying the flat anvil too to make the measure easier, only £20
devon deer stalker
Well-Known Member
And there is me thinking I'm the only one in the UK who watches his channel
He knows his stuff, I like his views on the Creedmore.
Let's get back to fundamentals , before the OP's head explodes . Somethings at this stage are more important than others ,bullet sorting should be very low down on the agenda at this stage . Concentricity is way down on the list as well and since Erik Cortina has pretty much proved it to be a nonsense , let's leave that alone as well . Any who want to argue the point can do so with him.
What is important is good load development , consistency in the loading , shooting and correct die set up .
Here's an example , Starline brass , annealed and once fired , 55gr SBT , CCI 450 , N133 :-
3 shots , 100 yards .
Can we use the correct nomenclature, start as we mean to go on .
Digital , Dial , Vernier . Top to bottom .
No the OP doesn't need a case comparator or OAL gauge but it may help .
Stick to the available data and work on the process , don't get drawn in to more complex procedures at this stage .
What is important is good load development , consistency in the loading , shooting and correct die set up .
Here's an example , Starline brass , annealed and once fired , 55gr SBT , CCI 450 , N133 :-
3 shots , 100 yards .
Can we use the correct nomenclature, start as we mean to go on .
Digital , Dial , Vernier . Top to bottom .
No the OP doesn't need a case comparator or OAL gauge but it may help .
Stick to the available data and work on the process , don't get drawn in to more complex procedures at this stage .
bluesako
Well-Known Member
poor tikkat 1x s head must be smashed in even me and ive loaded thousands and thousands of rounds over the years, ive worn 3 sets of dies out and a press, havent got a clue what some on here are on about when it comes to reloading, i think he has an overload of information, to take in, i would step back and open page 1 
my trouble is i want to know everything on day one, i do absorb some of the info and advise im given, and it does come back to me at certain times when needed, and its all here in black and white for me to revisit when i need to, im just trying to stick to the fundamentals at the moment, today iv been making another 40 round up with the N-133 powder, id trimmed my cases a few days ago, got the trimmer set up and trimmed them all all , set my seating die on the first one but after that was getting inconsistent measurements, so started checking my brass and it was all over the place, some 1.750 some 1.740 and 1.760, iv also had problems with the powder measurements, this time i did it on my digital scales, did all the different charges, and when i was done i tested some to see if they were the same, not one was the same, and measured something different every time, so i emptied all the cases and used the balance scales, then when to check each one on the digital scales, all between 0.1 and 0.6gr difference, so just stuck with the balance scales, yet the digital scales were always at zero when i put the powder on, got done in the end though, and hoping to test them tomorrow.
Length of the trimmed brass won't change COAL, it only changes how deep the bullet is seated in the case, which changes the pressure, velocity and the POI.
If your using soft points the length of the tip varies, hence my point about using a comparator.
Beam scales are the way to go initially, cheap digitals drift.
Well you seem to be having a bit more fun getting started than many. Some advice, reset the trimmer with a case that meets your spec. Lock down the moving parts so you are unable to cut beyond that point. The digital scales are subject to static and vibration, I cured the static with old dryer sheets rubbed on the scale. As to charge weight avoid vibration and it should work better. There is a learning curve when it come's to set up, don't rush, double check until you have it right and then it should go better.
To avoid derailing the OP with nerd-like engineering discussion of things that no person starting out should be exposed to, I started a new thread: Niche reloading topics
I post there what I found when looking at Deermanagement's numbers today: they are about right.
I post there what I found when looking at Deermanagement's numbers today: they are about right.
theses are then changes i want to avoid, so i need to get my CL right so everything else can be right, comparator and OAL gauge ordered, should be here for my next concoction
Interesting and thought provoking,
Query is that SP are far less uniform than BT, and even those can vary, I've had some Nosler BT that varied by 0.01" bullet length and A Max that varied by 0.015".
if the COAL length to the Ogive varies due to runout variation, surely the further from the neck the greater the variation?
Compounded by the lack of consistency in bullet length, the length at the tip will vary even more according to the orientation of the the base of the cartridge to the tip of the bullet when measuring COAL, so if the cartridge is rotated through 360° the length will surely change even more?
Just answered you on Niche reloading topics to avoid derailing this one. Yes, there is an interesting tolerance stack here.
bluesako
Well-Known Member
i gave up on soft point bullets thirty years ago a waste of time and energy, i use berger bullets they are so consistant, but its a pity tikkat 1x cant find someone where he lives, to show him the ropes, but he will get there in the end we are all with you matey, but i will say one thing if you are going to measure a bullet or loaded round measure from the ogive 
well at the moment im leaning more towards the V-max, and i am going to get some blitzkings and try them, what were your findings with the soft point?i gave up on soft point bullets thirty years ago a waste of time and energy, i use berger bullets they are so consistant, but its a pity tikkat 1x cant find someone where he lives, to show him the ropes, but he will get there in the end we are all with you matey, but i will say one thing if you are going to measure a bullet or loaded round measure from the ogive
Right chaps,
todays query is FL- sizing VS neck sizing, a couple of weeks ago id kind of decided on neck sizing due to the fact all my brass was once fired from my own rifle, then i read something, probably on here or saw a video that made me opt for FL resizing, what are the pros and cons of each, what should i be doing and why,
many thanks
todays query is FL- sizing VS neck sizing, a couple of weeks ago id kind of decided on neck sizing due to the fact all my brass was once fired from my own rifle, then i read something, probably on here or saw a video that made me opt for FL resizing, what are the pros and cons of each, what should i be doing and why,
many thanks
bluesako
Well-Known Member
hi matey the reason i stopped loading softpoint is that the lead point was always deformed, and you couldnt get a true measurment, later on i measured from the ogive which i think you have sorted with your comparator i like vmax i would stick with them rather than blitzking because of availability of vmax and the price, ive used vmax and still do in my 22.250 and 223rem they are a great bullet, crack on matey nice loading setup i also use berger bullets they are so consistant any bullet will work but i would say find a bullet that shoots well and stick with it or you will end up with loads of half boxes of bullets that you are never gonna use it wont be long until your giving us advice on here, advice on kneck or full length is i have never had one single problem with full length sizing unlike kneck sizing, but that up to you, if you want me to choose for you i wont, but would say personly i prefere to full size over kneck sizing i tried it and it didnt suit me gl bs
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