WD40 for cleaning, lubricating and protecting a rifle or shotgun.

It's a 2.5cst mineral oil base so that by default makes it a lubricant, it also lasts on a wear test as good as any other similar viscosity lubricant, it won't be anymore hygroscopic than any other mineral oil. nothing with a flash point that low is good around any source of ignition - the pressure a moderator sees would be increased with Wd in the mix.
 
It's a 2.5cst mineral oil base so that by default makes it a lubricant, it also lasts on a wear test as good as any other similar viscosity lubricant, it won't be anymore hygroscopic than any other mineral oil. nothing with a flash point that low is good around any source of ignition - the pressure a moderator sees would be increased with Wd in the mix.
only if you fill it with the stuff! other than that any pressure increase from correct use would be miniscule
 
only if you fill it with the stuff! other than that any pressure increase from correct use would be miniscule

You wouldn't need to fill it, headspace in systems under low pressure with standard mineral oil are blanketed with nitrogen for this very reason, slight increases in pressure with normal mineral oils having a flash point of >190degC can cause it to flash. WD having a much lower flash point is a risk in my opinion, I do wonder how the reflex mods that would occasionally self destruct whilst carrying the instruction to spray with WD40 had corrosion blamed on that issue.
 
I don't understand why you would use WD40 instead of something that is formulated for firearms and that a manufacturer had spent ££$$$ on R & D for ? If it was the only thing available then yes but its not there are many many many better products around.
 
You wouldn't need to fill it, headspace in systems under low pressure with standard mineral oil are blanketed with nitrogen for this very reason, slight increases in pressure with normal mineral oils having a flash point of >190degC can cause it to flash. WD having a much lower flash point is a risk in my opinion, I do wonder how the reflex mods that would occasionally self destruct whilst carrying the instruction to spray with WD40 had corrosion blamed on that issue.
have you ever considered the flame temperature in a mod? even water would be a problem pressure wise if you flooded it!
no one is suggesting you use that much WD40 or any light oil, however the manufacturers of some mods suggest it as part of the maintenance schedule, note that it also mentions other products, and if you prefer then use those, it doesn't make WD40 a life threatening choice........

Ase Utra instruction manual (really couldn't be bothered to go looking too far so took the first that came up )
 
have you ever considered the flame temperature in a mod? even water would be a problem pressure wise if you flooded it!
no one is suggesting you use that much WD40 or any light oil, however the manufacturers of some mods suggest it as part of the maintenance schedule, note that it also mentions other products, and if you prefer then use those, it doesn't make WD40 a life threatening choice........

Ase Utra instruction manual (really couldn't be bothered to go looking too far so took the first that came up )
Water in a mod helps sound reduction by cooling the gasses faster
 
I was on a boat once anchored up and fishing for cod using the "uptide" boat casting method. We were fishing using ragworm as bait. After about 30 mins the juices tend to get washed out of the worms and they should really be changed. I have seen people spray a load of WD40 over the bait and proceed to catch fish with it!
 
Why wouldn't wet work in a rifle suppressor?
Physics is physics at the end of the day...
its not that it wont work, but is it worth it ? besides the original discussion was whether WD40 would blow up a mod due to its low flashpoint. BTW a smidgin too much water in a mod can bugger the mod, and has been known to bulge barrels if t'internet is to be believed ;)
 
its not that it wont work, but is it worth it ? besides the original discussion was whether WD40 would blow up a mod due to its low flashpoint. BTW a smidgin too much water in a mod can bugger the mod, and has been known to bulge barrels if t'internet is to be believed ;)

Please cite that 'smidgin'

Original discussion was about the use of WD40, the flash point sky is falling crap was later.
 
I'm not sure about the benefits or harm that can be caused by spraying WD40 into a reflex moderator but I can vouch for the fact that you can over do it. A fellow rifle club member recently purchased his first centrefire rifle and moderator. In hs eagerness to maintain his kit in a good state of repair he seems to have over done the WD40 because for weeks now after firing his first shot there is a huge cloud of smoke. No amount of blowing the WD40 out with an airline or allowing it to drain in a warm dry place seems to work. He can't shoot any more than two rounds at a time because he can't see the target due to the smoke.

Another reason why I am glad that I bought a moderator that can be stripped.
 
I don't understand why you would use WD40 instead of something that is formulated for firearms and that a manufacturer had spent ££$$$ on R & D for ? If it was the only thing available then yes but its not there are many many many better products around.

I've been told by a few people in the trade that this is not always the case. Many 'gun care' products are simply engine oil, or other industrial substances that are put into ittle, wittle, bottles and priced at several 100% over the cost if you simply bought the original in a big bottle. After all, a rifle is just a lump of metal with a few moving parts. It's not mechanically special that requires magic potions at magical prices. What do you think has a harder life, an engine, or a sporting rifle?

Wolfie
 
I've been told by a few people in the trade that this is not always the case. Many 'gun care' products are simply engine oil, or other industrial substances that are put into ittle, wittle, bottles and priced at several 100% over the cost if you simply bought the original in a big bottle. After all, a rifle is just a lump of metal with a few moving parts. It's not mechanically special that requires magic potions at magical prices. What do you think has a harder life, an engine, or a sporting rifle?

Wolfie
Quite. I just use ATF on mine.

A note on WD40: I've used it for nine years on my black powder revolver for washing off the water after cleaning and just wipe it over the blueing as a final coat. Pistol still has good blue (Uberti) and the action is fine plus bore crisp. I guess this is since I use it regularly and that it always gets a thorough scrub but not a full dismantle.

Full synthetic car engine oil works well in the thinner grades and doesn't stink too bad.
 
I've been told by a few people in the trade that this is not always the case. Many 'gun care' products are simply engine oil, or other industrial substances that are put into ittle, wittle, bottles and priced at several 100% over the cost if you simply bought the original in a big bottle. After all, a rifle is just a lump of metal with a few moving parts. It's not mechanically special that requires magic potions at magical prices. What do you think has a harder life, an engine, or a sporting rifle?

Wolfie

Engine oil is pumped around at very high temperatures for hours on end , it comes in different viscosities as engine types vary and most is toxic,where as gun oil has to stick to surfaces often in wet and cold conditions ,not affect blueing or discolour wood ,non toxic and some loosens copper fouling and so on , its not 20w/50 in disguise, sure gun oil is comparatively expensive but then demand is much much less .
 
Hi

I believe GT85 (when on offer in Lidl/Aldi) is a better alternative to WD40 for the uses quoted - used by cyclists who dont want anything gumming up gears, derailiers etc.

L
+1 also a product called finish line chain lube. dries leaving a film but no gunge.
 
Engine oil is pumped around at very high temperatures for hours on end , it comes in different viscosities as engine types vary and most is toxic,where as gun oil has to stick to surfaces often in wet and cold conditions ,not affect blueing or discolour wood ,non toxic and some loosens copper fouling and so on , its not 20w/50 in disguise, sure gun oil is comparatively expensive but then demand is much much less .
Gun oil won't do wood any good at all!
 
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