Czhowa
Well-Known Member
I thought I'd share a couple of ideas that have worked for me. These are merely suggestions (so calm yourselves oh self-righteous SD police) and food for thought.
Firstly I've had issues with the rear tube on my predator 12 leaking gas. Cleaning, new o-rings and even a new outer tube didn't solve the problem. Given that this part of the moderator doesn't really get particularly dirty I've come up with an idea that has cured all leaks and it is still possible to dismantle if necessary, with a bit of persuasion. Normally I just leave the rear section intact and pop it on the radiator for half an hour to dry any condensation inside.
OK, so to the semi permanent seal. I strip the rear tube set and clean the o-ring contact points. Then I apply a thin coating of sealey air and brake line sealant. This stuff takes 60 hours to fully cure but after 500 rounds there's not gas blow by at all.
My second and probably more controversial modification is to shorten the rear tube by a maximum of roughly 10 mm. This was necessary to allow the moderator to be fitted to my new chassis without interfering with the forend.
The process is
1. Strip the mod.
2. Cut the desired length from the outer tube (max 10mm). I used an angle grinder.
3. File the cut completely flat and deburr inside and outside.
4. Remove rear plastic bush (this won't be going back on.
5. Using a die grinder or dremel carefully remove the thread that the back bush screws into, keeping it level with the highest point of the inner thread.
6. Working from the inside (inner tube threaded side) screw in an M34 x 1.5mm tap. Clamp the back nut in a soft vise and apply generous amounts of cutting lube. Work the tap gently, maybe an 1/8 of a turn at a time and gradually cut the thread all the way through.
This allows the inner tube to travel further, taking up the 10mm gap that you have made by trimming the outer tube.
7. Clean up any swarf and cutting fluid and trial assemble the mod.
8. If happy with the fit apply the air and brake sealant and alloy to dry.
Having done this the back bush can no longer be used, I find no detriment in this whatsoever and from an engineering point of view I see something that (sort of) touches the barrel as an unknown variable.
Anyway once again this is just my own experience, I'm putting it out there incase anyone else is having the same issues and is looking for a suggestion on how to remedy them

Firstly I've had issues with the rear tube on my predator 12 leaking gas. Cleaning, new o-rings and even a new outer tube didn't solve the problem. Given that this part of the moderator doesn't really get particularly dirty I've come up with an idea that has cured all leaks and it is still possible to dismantle if necessary, with a bit of persuasion. Normally I just leave the rear section intact and pop it on the radiator for half an hour to dry any condensation inside.
OK, so to the semi permanent seal. I strip the rear tube set and clean the o-ring contact points. Then I apply a thin coating of sealey air and brake line sealant. This stuff takes 60 hours to fully cure but after 500 rounds there's not gas blow by at all.
My second and probably more controversial modification is to shorten the rear tube by a maximum of roughly 10 mm. This was necessary to allow the moderator to be fitted to my new chassis without interfering with the forend.
The process is
1. Strip the mod.
2. Cut the desired length from the outer tube (max 10mm). I used an angle grinder.
3. File the cut completely flat and deburr inside and outside.
4. Remove rear plastic bush (this won't be going back on.
5. Using a die grinder or dremel carefully remove the thread that the back bush screws into, keeping it level with the highest point of the inner thread.
6. Working from the inside (inner tube threaded side) screw in an M34 x 1.5mm tap. Clamp the back nut in a soft vise and apply generous amounts of cutting lube. Work the tap gently, maybe an 1/8 of a turn at a time and gradually cut the thread all the way through.
This allows the inner tube to travel further, taking up the 10mm gap that you have made by trimming the outer tube.
7. Clean up any swarf and cutting fluid and trial assemble the mod.
8. If happy with the fit apply the air and brake sealant and alloy to dry.
Having done this the back bush can no longer be used, I find no detriment in this whatsoever and from an engineering point of view I see something that (sort of) touches the barrel as an unknown variable.
Anyway once again this is just my own experience, I'm putting it out there incase anyone else is having the same issues and is looking for a suggestion on how to remedy them


