Zeroing at 1” high question

[TST123]

Good evening,
I am still pretty new to rifle shooting/deer stalking and this is probably a very silly question to a lot of you.

So yesterday I zeroed my new rifle at dead on at 100m however I now think my best option would be to have it set at 1” high at 100 to save me from having to think about holdover out to 150/160m or so!

My question is, without heading back to a range would I be correct in assuming a couple of clicks up on my scope which has “1 click = 1cm/100m” would give me a new zero of 1” high at 100m?

Thanks!
Tom

 

[VSS]

Good evening,
I am still pretty new to rifle shooting/deer stalking and this is probably a very silly question to a lot of you.

So yesterday I zeroed my new rifle at dead on at 100m however I now think my best option would be to have it set at 1” high at 100 to save me from having to think about holdover out to 150/160m or so!

My question is, without heading back to a range would I be correct in assuming a couple of clicks up on my scope which has “1 click = 1cm/100m” would give me a new zero of 1” high at 100m?

Thanks!
Tom

It would be something like it, although the clicks never seem to be exact.
You're not going to do any harm making such a small adjustment, whatever.

 

[kenbro]

Hi, If it’s a decent quality scope it should be near enough. 3 clicks probably better ie. 1 1/4” approx.
Kb.

 

[nun_hunter]

Your logic makes perfect sense and will no doubt work well for you.

What I would suggest is that when and where possible you try your 1" high at 100 but actually shoot out to 150m and 200m to be sure that it does work and your accuracy at 100 is comparable at those distances.

On another thread about copper there were a few people saying how they'd zeroed at 100 (either dead on or 1" high) but found when shooting at 200 the bullet wasn't stable and was all over the place. One said they found this out on a deer by hitting it in the leg. So whilst it's fully expected that you will continue your 1moa or whatever accuracy you're getting at 100 out beyond that it may not be the case. Before taking a shot at a deer at 150 or 200 it's worth checking your accuracy does actually allow that.

Plus as someone new to shooting more practice and trigger tine (in field conditions) is never a bad thing.

 

[TST123]

Your logic makes perfect sense and will no doubt work well for you.

What I would suggest is that when and where possible you try your 1" high at 100 but actually shoot out to 150m and 200m to be sure that it does work and your accuracy at 100 is comparable at those distances.

On another thread about copper there were a few people saying how they'd zeroed at 100 (either dead on or 1" high) but found when shooting at 200 the bullet wasn't stable and was all over the place. One said they found this out on a deer by hitting it in the leg. So whilst it's fully expected that you will continue your 1moa or whatever accuracy you're getting at 100 out beyond that it may not be the case. Before taking a shot at a deer at 150 or 200 it's worth checking your accuracy does actually allow that.

Plus as someone new to shooting more practice and trigger tine (in field conditions) is never a bad thing.

I will definitely practice at those ranges too before shooting at live quarry. As I owe it to anything I shoot to be responsible and ethical and not stretch myself

 

[oldhamstocks]

Good question, ethically, and for your peace of mind, try and get a good target (BDS deer silhouette?) at a ranged 100 metres and shoot groups with your chosen ammo working back to 125, 150, 175, 200 at the same aim point. Depending on your point of impact (drops) you may prefer holding using the reticle rather than dialling in the field. I prefer dead on at 100 metres and practice at other distances rather than MPBR.

 

[Jon69]

If you’re new to all this, a calculator such as Sites-VistaFederal-Site or the excellent free app Ballistic AE will give you a decent overview of the type of thing you’re dealing with. Can be refined for all sorts of variables. Worth having a play.

 

[Freeforester]

Good evening,
I am still pretty new to rifle shooting/deer stalking and this is probably a very silly question to a lot of you.

So yesterday I zeroed my new rifle at dead on at 100m however I now think my best option would be to have it set at 1” high at 100 to save me from having to think about holdover out to 150/160m or so!

My question is, without heading back to a range would I be correct in assuming a couple of clicks up on my scope which has “1 click = 1cm/100m” would give me a new zero of 1” high at 100m?

Thanks!
Tom

Although there is no mention of calibre, and so the following may or may not be helpful, FWIW I used always to zero spot on at 100m, and then shoot out at targets placed 10m intervals beyond that; generally I found that with the smaller calibres at any rate (.222Rem, .243Win) that they were pretty much flat out to around 165m then started to drop increasingly rapidly after that, with .222 dropping slightly more than 4" at 200m. Most of my shots were aye sub 100m with an exceptional shot being beyond 170m.

Caveats: I was using relatively tame homeloads in both calibres, my rifles quite possibly differ in terms of external ballistic characteristics from yours, it was a long time ago, relatively small mag scope (6/42), the world has changed, I use lead, etc...

Moral:' try to find time to get a decent day out on the target and get to know what your rifle does at whatever distance you decide to Zero at, which should be dictated somewhat by your anticipated shot distance when shooting 'in anger'.

Once you know this and are happy with the trajectory of bullet given the chosen Zero point, you'll probably commit it to memory thereafter.

Oh, and I have found that I can personally achieve a pretty flat overall trajectory when I zero at around 65m.

 

[Cyres]

Put the relevant info and data into the Berger on line calculator and it will give you a very good idea what the bullet drop will be.
D

 

[kenbro]

Hi TST123,
Try logging into Hornady’s Balistics Calculator.
Put tor info in as asked for and it will show external Balistics out to as far as you want to shoot.
You can set it to show trajectories in 25 yard increments (+ or -).
By just changing your preferred zero you can see the best zero for your needs.
I use a zero of 165 yards and can hold on fox sized targets out to over 200 yards. No need to hold under or over.
Just check on a range when you’ve decided.
Cheers, Ken.

 

[Tazz]

I have my 270 an inch and a half high at 100 yds equates to about plumb at 200 yds and enough to not worry about hold over on Fallow out to 250, I have also checked the 200

 

[VSS]

I have my 270 an inch and a half high at 100 yds equates to about plumb at 200 yds and enough to not worry about hold over on Fallow out to 250, I have also checked the 200

Exactly the same here also with .270.
Just point and press.

 

[Tazz]

Exactly the same here also with .270.
Just point and press.

Yes no turret clicking between 50 and 250 just concentrate on the shot not the periphery

 

[BenBhoy]

Good evening,
I am still pretty new to rifle shooting/deer stalking and this is probably a very silly question to a lot of you.

So yesterday I zeroed my new rifle at dead on at 100m however I now think my best option would be to have it set at 1” high at 100 to save me from having to think about holdover out to 150/160m or so!

My question is, without heading back to a range would I be correct in assuming a couple of clicks up on my scope which has “1 click = 1cm/100m” would give me a new zero of 1” high at 100m?

Thanks!
Tom

ShootersCalculator.com | Point Blank Range Calculator

Calculates the maximum point blank range of a firearm cartridge fired from a rifle or handgun.

shooterscalculator.com

 

[A Guy Out West]

TST123,
Congratulations, you are on the right track for a new shooter. What you describe is known as maximum point blank range (the longest you can aim dead on and still make a fatal shot). First thing you need to know is the approximate size of the lethal area for the size game you are hunting. Once you know that, you can figure how high at 100 you need to be in order to be able to hold in the hair for a clean kill. The animals I hunt have at least an 8” kill area. With a .270, .308, 30/06, ect, 3” high at 100 will keep me in the clean kill area out to around 300 yards. You can fine tune it based on your load using ballistic charts. No guessing at hold over, no knob jobs, just pull up and shoot out to 300. Once you are failure with your points of impact, you will know exactly where to hold while still being in the hair. Lots of people get an ultra flat shooting gun and sight in dead on at 100, it leaves me scratching my head. I read about this method in one in Bob Hagel’s books, a fantastic gun writer of yesteryear. Take full advantage of your gun’s trajectory by using this method.

 

[JTO]

Good evening,
I am still pretty new to rifle shooting/deer stalking and this is probably a very silly question to a lot of you.

So yesterday I zeroed my new rifle at dead on at 100m however I now think my best option would be to have it set at 1” high at 100 to save me from having to think about holdover out to 150/160m or so!

My question is, without heading back to a range would I be correct in assuming a couple of clicks up on my scope which has “1 click = 1cm/100m” would give me a new zero of 1” high at 100m?

Thanks!
Tom

Rifle Trajectory Table

chuckhawks.com

 

[25 Sharps]

Your logic makes perfect sense and will no doubt work well for you.

What I would suggest is that when and where possible you try your 1" high at 100 but actually shoot out to 150m and 200m to be sure that it does work and your accuracy at 100 is comparable at those distances.

On another thread about copper there were a few people saying how they'd zeroed at 100 (either dead on or 1" high) but found when shooting at 200 the bullet wasn't stable and was all over the place. One said they found this out on a deer by hitting it in the leg. So whilst it's fully expected that you will continue your 1moa or whatever accuracy you're getting at 100 out beyond that it may not be the case. Before taking a shot at a deer at 150 or 200 it's worth checking your accuracy does actually allow that.

Plus as someone new to shooting more practice and trigger tine (in field conditions) is never a bad thing.

I’d shot plenty of deer with that bullet at 200 yards plus before hitting the one in the leg. I still don’t know if the bullet was unstable or not. May have just been a bad shot in failing light will the guide insisting “it’s now or never, take the shot……”

Rather than continuing with that bullet to find out I switched back to one I know works and is accurate at 300 yards.

 

[Smellydog]

I’d shot plenty of deer with that bullet at 200 yards plus before hitting the one in the leg. I still don’t know if the bullet was unstable or not. May have just been a bad shot in failing light will the guide insisting “it’s now or never, take the shot……”

Chit happens....

 

[25 Sharps]

Chit happens....

Yeah, the only way to never make a mistake is not to do anything at all!

 

[maximus otter]

Good evening,
I am still pretty new to rifle shooting/deer stalking and this is probably a very silly question to a lot of you.

So yesterday I zeroed my new rifle at dead on at 100m however I now think my best option would be to have it set at 1” high at 100 to save me from having to think about holdover out to 150/160m or so!

My question is, without heading back to a range would I be correct in assuming a couple of clicks up on my scope which has “1 click = 1cm/100m” would give me a new zero of 1” high at 100m?

Thanks!
Tom

1/10 mil (your scope’s adjustment increment) equals 0.36” at 100 yards.

You need to adjust by three clicks.

Here’s a handy calculator for future reference.

maximus otter