training a springer

simon t

Well-Known Member
Im currently training my springer who is 10 months old, or should I say trying to train..He's really steady using dummy's which is great and will hopefully move onto rabbits soon. He's only going to be used to retrieve rabbits and then hopefully track deer.
The problem I have with him is on the lead, he pulls like a train even with a slip lead. I would like to get him to walk nicely to heal and then progress to no lead so any advice would be nice

Cheers
 
Welcome to the world of springers!
I trained mine by having a slip lead on but letting it trail on ground. Get the dog to walk along side you to heel, if he starts to move too far forward tread on the lead
it worked with mine but they all are different
 
Welcome to the world of springers!
I trained mine by having a slip lead on but letting it trail on ground. Get the dog to walk along side you to heel, if he starts to move too far forward tread on the lead
it worked with mine but they all are different

I wish I was at the stage where I could drop it :)..I think he just likes to choke himself
 
Perhaps springer should of been an old hunting word for patiece!
Keep at it though as when you do get it right they are one of the best dogs in the world but perhaps Im biased
 
My 6 month old springer bitch is starting to walk to heel on the lead nicely. I feed her her dinner one piece at a time from my left hand next to my left knee while simultaneously praising her and sayimg heel. I have also looped the slip lead round her nose and used training discs (trixie discs) shacking them at her when she gets ahead. I dont have to use discs or nose loop now. Also when I started lead walking her I changed direction when she pulled (sometimes we hardly got out of the drive. I also sometimes feed her her dinner walking round the kitchen and garden off the lead but from my left hand next to my left knee praising and saying heel and changing direction regularly.
I want to be able to take her stalking so need her to be able to walk at heel off the lead and wait at the bottom of a high seat so just hsave to keep at it until it clicks.
 
Sounds like your not using the lead correctly. there should be plenty of videos on you tube. A slip lead should never be tight and is normally jerked to correct, but never left tight. Concentrate on the basics, sitting, staying, heeling, recalling. He's still very young, don't expect too much
 
I was told to pull the lead forward, towards the ears, if they start to move ahead. If you yank it back towards the shoulders they just pull harder in reaction.

Changing direction, as Pete states above, also means that you pull sideways and avoid pulling the lead back.

My youngster is much better at walking to heel off the lead. She starts to pull when we first go out but usually settles down after a couple of minutes of reminding. Part of my problem is that it is not only me that takes her out...does anybody have any tips as to how to train one's domestic partner?

Alan
 
a old trick is to "trip" the dog up-if it starts to get ahead of you just flick the leg nearest to you -gently mind- this will halt the dog it will soon learn after a few "trips" another old trick is tap its nose with a stick if it gets in front i have used these methods on 3 dogs and only for a few days they soon learn.
 
I have been a Springer man all my working life and all have passed off between 13 and 14 years and although all were good working dogs I would say neither has been fully trained ;-)
They are such a joy to work with and never give up trying to please you even when fully exhausted.
Good luck and it will pay you in the end, be strict, no I would use the word firm not strict, and all will work out eventually.
 
Good luck. We are about half way through training mine. 9 years in I'm still optimistic about her.

:rofl:

There's the old saying that Labradors are born half trained and Spaniels die half trained. But in reality, training is a life long pastime. Many new dog owners will thing that they will get to the stage where you will have a completely obedient animal and that's the end of the training. In reality, training in some form is a lifelong process.
 
The old fashioned/ Field trial ways was not to train a spaniel to heel, until it is hunting like a mainiac, and even then most never really walk to heel. Esp the FT trainers are too worried it will impact on hunting drive. Se them on trials pulling handlers about no good for an average rough shooter or dog owner.

I generally attempt to get a dog walking to heel straight away when i get them at 3 months, then they don't know any better, althou with my GWp it was a real mission started geat got to about 6-12 months was a real PITA, fine on/off lead now thou but bloody hard work

Patience and repetition is the only ways, even get a lesson of a decent trainer is never a bad thing.

If ur timing for correction or when u say heel is off the dog could be understanding hee to be something different entirely. Same with treats or praise if ur timings off u could be rewarding the thing ur trying to stop.
Someone already mentioned the slip lead are u sure u've got it on the right way? Be amazed how many folk dont know, the metal ring should always be on the bottom part so comes slack straight away.

Try altering speeds of walk esp walking slow, dead slow changing direction and walking figure of 8's, but only praise and say 'heel' when ur dog is in the EXACT position u want, as soon as he pulls forward u must correct, no good letting it walk for 2,5, 10 mins out of position then correct dog doesnae know wot its getting corrected for. Just confuses them
I was always told a sharp jerk upwards in inwards is the best to corect as pulling straight baack just encourags it to pull.

Other things already mentioned like turning 180's away from dog (ie to right if dog on left side) as soon as dog moves in front, or stopping every time he goes in front. Often a dominance thing trying to be the leader of pack so out in front leading

if more persistant the figure of 8 with slip lead over nose works but have to be gentle as casn strain neck, or the FT hpr style put slip lead very very high on neck and use the stop to hoold it there sometimes tucking a lug into it (but sort of defeats the point of a slip lead, but most hpr pull a lot too)
If ur using a thin whippy stick to touch its nose u want the stick to be swinging like a pendulum all the time in front so dog walks into the stick, not u hitting it with it, give it a visual thing not to pull as always swinging in front of its nose.

Always worth gettin a lesson of a deent trainer, i had dogs for years afore i went to local gundog club and had a lesson or 2 with decent trainers, wot a difference it makes. It's so easy when folk show u the right/easy way.
Even reading books or on here or watching a dvd easy to misunderstand or miss an important but subtle thing there doing that makes all the diffrence.
A dog that is going to pull for the next 10+ years is a PITA a lesson is well worth it
 
Welcome to the wonderful crazy world of Springers!

Some good advice from GaryW and Countrryboy.

Start as you mean to go on ...repetition and praise.

One thing we did which worked for ours ...along with the "trip", is to walk them next to you along a path or fence/hedge and deliberately walk in front of them so they have to walk to heel. If she looked or tried to walk ahead of me and thus pulled on the lead I would simply on my next stride put my leg across her snout and walk ahead of her until she stopped pulled, whilst either patting my leg or saying "heel" or "keep in"....rewarding the correct behaviour. I would also stop dead if she was pulling and frown sternly at her until she came back in and walked to heel.

The figure of 8 routine in the garden is a good one, again reinforcing.

When I started stalking with her off the lead I would use my sticks to hold just in front of her nose as a "barrier" which she soon learnt where I needed her to be.

Springers are great , quick learners and very intelligent...so perseverance is the key!

Good luck!
 
I use a small stick and slightly hit the dog with on the head. I mean slightly. Hard to explain in English. Dog left with lead in left hand, the twig ( thin stick) in the right hand. Every time he wants to get in front of the knee a small correction on the head. Might be needed every 2 / 3 seconds in the beginning, but improves quickly. After a short while the dog jumps to your right side to avoid being "hit". Straight away a hit on his right shoulder to put him back in place. When this goes good on lead, use a short lead and drop it while walking, later off lead. In 2/3 weeks time you get good results. I do this with any breed, spaniel, lab, malinois, .... works for all dogs. Succes.
 
Hales Smut, there's a name from the past!!! What a spaniel a real head banger. Did you know Kieth Erlandson? Im curious 'cos he was a spaniel / cocker guru!!! And he bred the great dog.
B A
 
Keith Erlandson was a great friend of my uncle Roly Burgoyne who won the spaniel championships with Ashley Buster in the 70s
 
I have been a Springer man all my working life and all have passed off between 13 and 14 years and although all were good working dogs I would say neither has been fully trained.

This reminds me of the old saying "a Labrador is born half trained while a Springer dies half trained!!' :-)
 
Most springers are useable on wild game without much training. It's only the moment you bring them on shoots with thousands of birds that training becomes very important. They don't realy need to find them, just being obedient is all that's needed. Loads of game brought springers downhill. After speaking with Mr Lawton Evans many years ago, he explained me that the dogs from the 60's , 70's had to be trained before you could let them hunt. If you would do that these days, most of them would never start hunting.

I only spoke a few times with Keith Erlandson over the phone. It never hooked, don't know why. The man wich has my greatest respect and who learned me a lot is Mr Ian Bateson. Ian Openshaw learned a lot from Mr Bateson. At least that's what I read in an article about Openshaws carreer.
 
Back
Top