DIY Annealer - the journey begins...

[zambezi]

I use a drill and a torch with a set of long sockets for both the 6mmbr 20 tac and 243.

bob.

I have been doing that, and am aware that the difference between only-neck-annealed and half the case made too soft, is just a few seconds. Or fractions of a second if torch is quite hot.

So what I added to the process you do is I dropped cases in water to arrest temperature distribution toward the case head. Still not 100% happy that every case was getting same treatment...hence this project.

 

[paul o']

bits on order . thinking a 4" core cutter as the drum as I have all the fittings

 

[zambezi]

Some progress. The "low gate" shell separator on the case chute is taking shape. I will let the images speak for themselves.

 

[paul o']

What pencil torch are you use'g ?

 

[zambezi]

What pencil torch are you use'g ?

Propane burner?

I am using a Sievert Pro 86 with a 393902 nozzle. It produces a well focussed flame, but you have to calibrate its heat output each time you set it up. That is because it is capable of 0.9kW at full chat. In testing, a relatively weak flame achieves the 370˚C on 6.5x55mm cases in approx 6-8 secs.

To calibrate the burner's heat output, I have cheese-grated a bit of laundry soap into a cup, added just enough water to make a paste, and then painted a Goldfinger-esque line down 10 sacrificial cases. Next to that line of soap is a [faint] Temstick line. Once I have finished the annealer, I will establish how slow a rotation of the drum achieves the desired heating effect.

I fully expect the radian speed of the annealer drum to vary each time I do a batch of brass, its speed dictated by the test cases on the day.

 

[finnbear270]

Ambient room / surrounding area space and brass temp might also come into the equation.

 

[paul o']

I'v got a mapgas bottle and a rothenberger fine tip plumbers torch . doing 6.5 cm .

 

[1066]

Some progress. The "low gate" shell separator on the case chute is taking shape. I will let the images speak for themselves.

I like the gate system - Reminds me of the Galileo clock escapement:

 

[Liveonce]

They look like knitting needles, if so hope you got permission to acquire them !!!

 

[zambezi]

They look like knitting needles, if so hope you got permission to acquire them !!!

Rumbled! Keep shtoom!

 

[paul o']

I do like the deep pan 7X64 type one I see it on the Youtube , but it did say your not building them anymore or the price mty Also taken your advice and getting a Colman propane bottle to fit me Torch with a flex fitting .

Looking forward to see how you get on.. The rotary pan, popularly know as the "Skippy annealer" has been around a good while and is a proven design with hundreds of good homebuilds working well.
Personally I would buy a dedicated motor rather than use your belt sander motor. There is very little power needed to drive the drum, a 12v DC geared motor is less than a tenner and a PWM DC motor speed controller only about a fiver.

Here are a couple of my annealers made in my home workshop.

 

[Idahoboy]

What calibres are you loading/annealing? Just curious, this looks like a fun project! I've been thinking of buying an annealer. I follow a guy on YT called Panhandle Precision, from my home state of Idaho, that guy has a great automatic annealer.

 

[zambezi]

What calibres are you loading/annealing?

I principally reload for three CF calibers. 6.5x55, 30.06 and .375H&H. Annealing has been an add-on to my reloading hobby since some cases have now had multiple firings and I want to extend their life.

 

[zambezi]

I added the "high gate" on the case-stepper and it works OK. Not brilliant, just OK. Will continue tweaking to gain most repeatable single case release from hopper. [Yup, another knitting needle bit the dust]

 

[paul o']

Your misses will be after blood ! thats 3 of them you have cut and bent up now waiting on china now best I get the deep clean kit ready before I start my build !

 

[paul o']

Box made

but to date only one bits arrived the speed controller

 

[zambezi]

One step forward...two steps back. Cutting the slot in the pot to admit cases revealed a feature of its construction: the lip was under some tension. Once the slot was cut, the pot rim splayed. Which resulted in the pot and ramp fouling each other. I have now spent some time trying to re-marry the alignment of the rotary and stationary components. Getting there, but frustrating work.

 

[paul o']

I'v had one of the timers turn up and one of the flexible drive motor couplings a 5mm/8mm stud converter. plus the torch flex to /from the propane bottle but still none of the motors or the 2nd timer . I have done a working mock-up and all seams to work turning it by hand I cooked a few old case's , So fingers crossed once I rebuild it onto the box I set it out ok again , I am using stainless 50x50 for the fed ramps and a bit of 3/8 studding bent with a smash in stud to deflect the case to stay aligned while in the flame , what is a bugbear at the mo I still can't find my tempilaq 750 f apart from spud I cant find anyone who sells it , I only need enough to run a test to set the drum time up .
Carry on the nice work .

 

[zambezi]

I still can't find my tempilaq 750 f

I tried the Temstick and found it fiddly/faint. However, it corroborated Alantoo's suggestion that laundry soap is an accurate annealing temperature marker.

 

[paul o']

I tryed it when I first had the posh mech but it was't very good ,I see the soap and its what I used to do when bending Ally motor or aircraft panels , just wondering the tempilaq 750 f that I am told I should use is way above the soap trick and will my case's be good to go at the lower temp as shown feller if so this is a saving of 30 odd pounds more on a cheap build for idle hands .