Mauser 4000 weak ejection

harrygrey382

Well-Known Member
I’ve had this rifle a few months and have only put about 70 shots through it. It used to eject ok (not great but they always cleared). Now ejection is really weak - spent cartridges rarely clear the bolt way. Seems slightly better if moving the bolt back fast, but they still mostly just do a little flip and are left in the race.

the bolt face looks clean, the ejector still goes in and out. Extractor seems to hold cases ok. All the cases are Winchester, I bought 40 factory rounds and have been reloading so they haven’t varied.

I know Mauser 4000s are known to be weak ejectors, and have been reading up on sako ejection issues (They look like The same ejector style). Apart from removing The ejector, cleaning around it and either stretching or replacing the pin, does anyone have any input? The ejector doesn’t sit flush with the bolt rim - it stops about 1mm short, is this correct (it’s my first push feed)?
 
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you may need to be a bit more "assertive" with the bolt action, can you video a hard and fast extraction ?
edit lots of threads online about them, apparently they also have a weak bolt stop so really "assertive" is probably not the way to go
 
Likely to be the extractor claw is worn or rounded so letting the case run go early

Replacement part from Mauser if they are available
 
you may need to be a bit more "assertive" with the bolt action, can you video a hard and fast extraction ?
edit lots of threads online about them, apparently they also have a weak bolt stop so really "assertive" is probably not the way to go
yeah I’ve read Those too, don’t want to add to my problems! Doesn’t really help if I slam the bolt though
Likely to be the extractor claw is worn or rounded so letting the case run go early

Replacement part from Mauser if they are available
How come you’re finger pointing at the extractor rather than the ejector? Is that the usual culprit with these sorts of bolts?
 
This problem is seen quite a bit with older Tikka 595/695 and on hard use T3

The plunger isn’t the issue - other than strip down / clean up and re fit required

The claw area of the extractor will likely be worn or worn sufficiently to allow the case rim to slip from the claw prior to the case coming back far enough to start the rotational movement provided by the plunger as the mounts comes free of the action and enters the void of the ejection port

Look closely at the claw - if it’s worn replace it, if the plunger spring is also compressed I’d also change that, but I believe your problem lies with the extractor claw initially

You could use a fine needle file to re dress the claw “face” but it’s likely to have been hardened and difficult to do
 
My Heym does similar at times. Solution is lighter fluid into the plunger. Push it up and down lots of times and if you can do it pointing downwards even better. Flush out with clean lighter fluid. Then use a light machine oil for a little bit of lubrication. I think, but have never tried, you can remove the plunger by first removing the bolt shroud - hold in the bolt shroud plunger and unscrew. Take out mainspringer and firing pin and the ejector plunger is at the bottom.

I do find that a quick operation of the bolt tends to fling it out, where as gently opening and it tends to stay in the breech.
 
Thanks for the replies guys, sorry I dropped it but it’s starting to really irritate me - so much so it’s making me want to get rid of it and get a CRF 222, which is silly cos it’s an otherwise nice rifle…

This problem is seen quite a bit with older Tikka 595/695 and on hard use T3

The plunger isn’t the issue - other than strip down / clean up and re fit required

The claw area of the extractor will likely be worn or worn sufficiently to allow the case rim to slip from the claw prior to the case coming back far enough to start the rotational movement provided by the plunger as the mounts comes free of the action and enters the void of the ejection port

Look closely at the claw - if it’s worn replace it, if the plunger spring is also compressed I’d also change that, but I believe your problem lies with the extractor claw initially

You could use a fine needle file to re dress the claw “face” but it’s likely to have been hardened and difficult to do
Heym and Mauser both confirm the extractor is unavailable. I could dress the face, but would that really help - if I remove more won’t that make it slip worse? I’d want to add metal first wouldn’t I? Heym said it’s made from C45, which I take to be equivalent to 1045, which is a very simple steel to anneal and re harden. I’m thinking I could build up the face with TIG and reform it. But then if I stuff it up I’m rooted - maybe I should try making one first…
My Heym does similar at times. Solution is lighter fluid into the plunger. Push it up and down lots of times and if you can do it pointing downwards even better. Flush out with clean lighter fluid. Then use a light machine oil for a little bit of lubrication. I think, but have never tried, you can remove the plunger by first removing the bolt shroud - hold in the bolt shroud plunger and unscrew. Take out mainspringer and firing pin and the ejector plunger is at the bottom.

I do find that a quick operation of the bolt tends to fling it out, where as gently opening and it tends to stay in the breech.
I’ve explored the plunger and spring fairly well - pulled it apart, through clean and lube it’s all good in there. Even altered it to allow more ejector travel. All this made no difference - I think Ronin is probably right
 
Very obvious in the video.
The extractor is letting go to early.
The ejector needs the extractor to keep hold of the rim so the case pivots off the extractor.

VSS....not yet sunshine 😎
 
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Take the extractor off and check for gunk underneath fouling the spring.
Measure the spring and replace or order one with thicker wire.
Worth the effort.
 
No sir, its supposed to pivet out side ways. Promise 😚
Yep, but it goes upwards first before. It doesn’t go straight sideways. The mouth of the case is being lifted up upon extraction and striking the underside of the scope, making it bounce out of the claw.

Same thing happens with Sako style extractors with low mounted scopes or sometimes piccy rails. My tikka does the same, so needs medium height rings and a 1” tube.
 
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