Just a thought, do you live inside neck when resizing, if the expander ball ‘squeaks when coming back through neck it can pull the neck forward enough to cause tight bolt. J
Stiff bolt close, case trimming?
- Thread starter Olisimpson1
- Start date
paul o'
Well-Known Member
My 2p on This,
Do this with a fired case then with a FL re sized case ,.. my case after trim is .288 neck bush giving me a .290 loaded case , mind you mine is a factory unit .
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{Ronin}
I'd do this as a First step :
Remove fire control mechanism
Close bolt on resized case so that you have slight pressure (just) to close bolt ( Not crush)
Any cases that are difficult to close from there on in I would bump the shoulder only sufficiently to enable the above with bolt handle (end)
Then as above with an added 1x Sellotape trimmed around the head as its around a 2tho + on head spacing , if this fails then it sounds like you have a very tight chamber indeed ,
? try a set of /Go /No Go gages ( not field ). or ask the rifle builder what gage he set your chamber up with . this wall allow you to set up your die .
Just to add , I have removed the expander on my Wilson sizing die and now only use a mandrill from the K&M neck turn ,As I did find the up force was pulling the shoulder a tad back up ,
Feel this is a sound advice from above.
Then add 1x Sellotape to head and trim around head and redo test as that should be around 2tho +
Do this with a fired case then with a FL re sized case ,.. my case after trim is .288 neck bush giving me a .290 loaded case , mind you mine is a factory unit .
-----
(Quote)
{Ronin}
I'd do this as a First step :
Remove fire control mechanism
Close bolt on resized case so that you have slight pressure (just) to close bolt ( Not crush)
Any cases that are difficult to close from there on in I would bump the shoulder only sufficiently to enable the above with bolt handle (end)
Then as above with an added 1x Sellotape trimmed around the head as its around a 2tho + on head spacing , if this fails then it sounds like you have a very tight chamber indeed ,
? try a set of /Go /No Go gages ( not field ). or ask the rifle builder what gage he set your chamber up with . this wall allow you to set up your die .
Just to add , I have removed the expander on my Wilson sizing die and now only use a mandrill from the K&M neck turn ,As I did find the up force was pulling the shoulder a tad back up ,
Feel this is a sound advice from above.
Then add 1x Sellotape to head and trim around head and redo test as that should be around 2tho +
Last edited:
That should say lube not live (‘king auto spell) J
This is a good suggestion and why I shoulder bump with those horrible graunchy expander balls removed and then use an expander mandrel to consistently size necks as part of a different process.
Ronin
Distinguished Member
Yup absolutely and using that method you can gauge exactly how much you are moving the shoulder reasonable accurately
I would add that sections of shim stock is better as there is no crush value - there is with tape
Also excellent advice to remove expander ball - simply is not required unless case mouth damaged in which case use an expander iron from K&M
Have you trimmed case length or even measured? If cases are being correctly FL sized then yes case length may well be an issue
Matt Roberts
Well-Known Member
Are you measuring the col or using a comparator to the ogive? Depending on the quality of the head there may be some variance? Just a thought.
Agree with all the other suggestions but I had a miserable time with ammo that had previously worked incredibly well. Turned out the bearing surface on the bolt lugs had galled thus Altering the size of the chamber. My own fault for having a dry bolt and a long day at the range.
Namman
Well-Known Member
diverdave
Well-Known Member
I have had this in both 243 and 3006. It happens when i am trying to be super accurate and have every measurement just bang on. I am finding its the case shoulder that is the issue, and even though every measurement is well within spec as for length and i have wondered if it was the angle that was the issue and not the length. It has happened in a schultz and larson and tika T3. Every time i have had this simply pressing the shoulder back a tiny bit makes all the difference, from memory it was just a 1/4 turn on the fl die. I have not had this for some years, so dont remember the details and measurements, but that certainly stopped the issue for me. Interestingly, when i did fire the tight ones they were always off slightly, and the ones bumped back were spot on. I have the die set now, and never change it, its not been a problem for some years.
It went back to the gunsmith and was re-headspaced etc.
Let’s stop guessing
Black up a case with a sharpie and see where it’s fouling the chamber from the witness marks!
Do the bullet too!
Redding dies set too shallow won’t size the body
Black up a case with a sharpie and see where it’s fouling the chamber from the witness marks!
Do the bullet too!
Redding dies set too shallow won’t size the body
Sorry, someone already posted this .
Me bad .
hairlesshunter
Well-Known Member
I had a similar problem in 243 I just ran the ones that were stiff when closing the bolt back press which cured the problem
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