7x57 Oberndorf style build

harrygrey382

Well-Known Member
So I’ve been meaning to start a build thread for a while. Just in case any of you are interested... I’m building an Oberndorf Type B style open sighted rifle in 7x57. My reasoning is not because I want to say I have one, but because IMO these rifles are the epitome of rifle style and function. I think they haven’t been improved on yet and if I could afford one I would, but I can’t find a decent one in 7x57 in my budget and I like making stuff so thought I’d give it a go... here’s what I’d be happy for it to look like for those that don’t obsess over type Bs!
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So I’m starting with a 1937 Portuguese contract 98 receiver. I’ve scrubbed the crest and nazi markings. This may raise eyebrows but I want it to appear as a civilian sporting rifle not a sporterised military one, and the nazi markings made me mildly uncomfortable. Also it was quite pitted on one side and I got it as a bare receiver (and I have a much less pitted one for a rainy day, probably involving a 404 barrel). I put it on a mandrel and made a very light trueing cut. When I measured back to the inner ring found it was within 0.001”! Hopefully should shoot alright with iron sights ;)
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I’ve got a 28” barrel coming (hopefully in the next week or two...) machined to original Type B contours that a local Member of the nitroexpress forums very kindly accurately measured up. He also gave me an original Type B tangent sight! It has similarities with military contour as in the initial shoulder and steps but then has one smooth taper. They’re cutting a SAAMI chamber but I’ve sent a dummy round with a 175gr RN seated way out to set the throat to - might as well use up all that extra mag space and with the length of bullet these 7mms have The case space will be on the heals of a 7x64/280 I reckon.
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I’m looking for a base/sleeve - I’m pretty sure a 1909 Argentine carbine will fit just right and much easier to find than a type B one. Can’t find a source for a proper front sight ramp (Recknagel are completely different) - closest is the prechtl type A style but $200 landed and for a type A... so I’ll need to make that too.

The stock I’ve had copied from an original Type A blank by Hatcher’s Rifle Stocks in xxx grade walnut. My research says the stock shapes were the same apart from the fore end tip - he’s left a blank section there for me to form into a schnabel. It’s not exhibition grade for three reasons - oberndorf sporters usually had wood that was on the plain side, this will be rifle for hunting not display, and maybe mostly - expense!

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I’ve got a lever floor plate and DST trigger I’ll be inletting into a standard bottom metal and filling the lock screws. This is how the DST came, I was going to graft a regular bow on but now I think it’ll be less work to inlet from scratch. I’ve got a stock trigger to make the kicker from.
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Got a sharp virgin Brno bolt - working on the handle right now then I’ll weld it on. Next to a sporterised vz24 bolt.
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Just finished the handle five minutes ago.

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Still a heap of stuff to work out and this isn’t going to be lightning quick - 3 kids under 9, full time job and too many other projects means this will just have to burble along! If anyone has any comments or suggestions fire away!

Admin please merge this with the first post
 
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I've done this but used a new, unissued barrel (they were available back in the day) and a custom sight base with a three leaf arrangement. I made the sight and the leafs, patterned after one on a 1888 Mauser sporter I own. The rifle shot well and looked the part, but I sold it to a customer. I still have several rifles in that style (.318's) with the addition of claw mounts.

In truth, the rifles are good to carry afield but for shooting quality, I don't rate them too highly. Too much drop at the heel making it hard to find the sight alignment in a hurry. Also, I'm not a fan of DSTs. All this doesn't say I don't like the classic look and lines -like those of a Kentucky Rifle. You're doing a good job. I hope you post pictures of the project when completed.~Muir
 
Thanks Muir, got any pics of your build - it sounds excellent? Just goes to show different tastes - one of the reasons I love these is the shape of the stock (including the drop) and I’m quite a fan of DSTs! Although I’m very aware they divide opinion a bit...

A question though - when Inletting do you do bottom metal or receiver first? If bottom metal first, do you use any form of dowels to help locate it?
 
Thanks Muir, got any pics of your build - it sounds excellent? Just goes to show different tastes - one of the reasons I love these is the shape of the stock (including the drop) and I’m quite a fan of DSTs! Although I’m very aware they divide opinion a bit...

A question though - when Inletting do you do bottom metal or receiver first? If bottom metal first, do you use any form of dowels to help locate it?
Mine has been gone for 35 years. Back then I didn't take pictures of all the rifles I worked on or built.

I used a set of Brownells Stockmakers screws. Located the holes in the blank, inletted the triggerguard ( a dummy, actually) and then scraped in the upper.

If I didn't like these rifles I wouldn't have kept the ones I have remaining! I just don't hunt with them.~Muir
 
I have to agree with Muir about the triggers but the timber is true to form. They were often stocked like that because the straight grain running through the stock made them both strong and stable. The good british manufacturers of high end Africa rifles often had a cheaper version for the professional hunters, no engraving to save money and plain straight grained stocks for strength and reliability.

Best of luck with the build.

David.
 
I used a set of Brownells Stockmakers screws. Located the holes in the blank, inletted the triggerguard ( a dummy, actually) and then scraped in the upper.
it seems stock makers screws are for inletting the receiver - I’m assuming the bottom metal is generally done with no screws/guides as there’s nothing to screw to or guide it? But then the receiver is set to it?
I have to agree with Muir about the triggers but the timber is true to form. They were often stocked like that because the straight grain running through the stock made them both strong and stable. The good british manufacturers of high end Africa rifles often had a cheaper version for the professional hunters, no engraving to save money and plain straight grained stocks for strength and reliability.

Best of luck with the build.

David.
Sure, thanks Dave. I actually quite like some things in the plain side, this stock is nice but not amazing - as much as I admire the craftsmanship in ornate custom builds a lot of it is too bling/overstated for my basic tastes
 
Mine was done with a stock blank, not an inletted stock like yours. How you proceed will be determined by the quality of your inletting.~Muir
 
I have a Mauser FN K98 sporting in 7X57 lovely calibre nice to shoot and big enough for all the uk can deliver, i only have one small issue, the Mauser safety is the flip over 3 position one, and with my scope on, it only goes to the second position, safe but bolt will open, hence when i am stalking the bolt can drop open.
I stalk with round under the bolt so no round falls out,Otherwise sound.7X57 Was and still is a big African round,
 
Here"s a picture of the Oberndorf Mauser museum.
wow! That’s a place to visit for sure - bit like the Husqvarana museum... didn’t realise there was one, I assume it’s in Oberndorf AG?
I have a Mauser FN K98 sporting in 7X57 lovely calibre nice to shoot and big enough for all the uk can deliver, i only have one small issue, the Mauser safety is the flip over 3 position one, and with my scope on, it only goes to the second position, safe but bolt will open, hence when i am stalking the bolt can drop open.
I stalk with round under the bolt so no round falls out,Otherwise sound.7X57 Was and still is a big African round,
Have you thought about installing an M70 style 3 position safety - this is the best round round the classic problem? Certainly what I’d do if I wanted to mount a scope
 
I have looked at sniper version it does look like it might need a smith, to get involved but i will check it out if it shows up on google search,

regards Albert
 
Following with interest and well done.

As per Muir's comment I would have ignored the original stock contour and gone for far less drop at the heel.

K
 
Got to say I agree with the comments on drop I’ve an orginal 8x60 and the drop is hard to get on with takes a bit more work. This is the same for most old gun rifles and shotguns, modern body shapes need higher combs than our fore farthers
 
If you struggle with the sights, it might be worth trying a cocking piece sight (Sometimes called "Rigby Style").

They can be quite forgiving and there is no steel from the action that needs cutting away.

Scrummy
 
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