6.5x55 Nosler 140Gr BT Rs60 Load

[Blair]

Hi all

Ive just got a load of new components together after struggling to get tips for months for the calibre and i was looking for a bit of help getting a load together. I have had to go with the Nosler 140gr Ballistic tip (brown) and was suggested from local gun smith/shop that Rs60 was the ideal powder along with federal large primers.
So i am running this load through a sako 85 finnlight.
Barrel length: 620mm
Twist rate: 1:8
6.5x55
Nosler 140 grain ballistic tip
RS 60 powder.

Has anyone ever done any development with this powder/bullet? Have tried contacting Reload swiss and nitrochemie a couple time to no avail. Had a search around forums and have not spotted anyone using this combination.

Many thanks all.

 

[andychas]

here you go, look at the data for the 140gn Sierra BTHP. not the exact bullet but close enough to do your development, just start low and work up looking for pressure signs.

Reload Swiss loading data

www.reload-swiss.com

you can get the COL off the Nosler load data for that bullet.
For future reference, RS60 and Reloder17 are pretty much identical powders so you can cross reference your data with that.

 

[The deer man]

I use a few of the RS powders in various calibres and in my Sako 85 6.5x55, found RS62 works as well as RS60 with most weight bullets. RS62 gave best accuracy most of the time and RS60 gave best velocities and very accurate with some BT's.

 

[Blair]

I use a few of the RS powders in various calibres and in my Sako 85 6.5x55, found RS62 works as well as RS60 with most weight bullets. RS62 gave best accuracy most of the time and RS60 gave best velocities and very accurate with some BT's.

Thanks for both your help, what sort of loads are you running?

 

[andychas]

Thanks for both your help, what sort of loads are you running?

I was using Barnes 120gn TTSX, now switched to Yew Tree 112gn both with RS60 but obviously the load data won't be of any use to you Im afraid.

 

[The deer man]

Thanks for both your help, what sort of loads are you running?

These 6.5x55 loads in my Sako 85 Classic 22.441" barrel, are what I've used and proven safe for my rifle but maybe not safe for yours so work up carefully...

Sierra 140gr SPBT GameKing
RS62 - 45.0g
COL 2.960
Bullet L: 1.270"
Velocity: 2,686 fps
Velocity R: 6 fps
Repeatable accuracy sub 1/3"@100m

Sierra 120gr ProHunter
RS60 - 45.6g
COL: 2.985"
Bullet L: 1.065"
Velocity: 2,870 fps
Velocity R: 13 fps
Accuracy coming in sub 3/4" however this load needs tuning as changed to RS60 because of REACH restrictions on powders previously used (Reloder 17) not available.

Sierra 100gr Varminter
RS62 - 49.5g
COL: 2.830"
Bullet L: 0.935"
Velocity: 3,070 fps
Velocity R: 5 fps
Repeatable accuracy sub 1/3"@100m

I've tested and used a number of others but these are what I now stick with.

 

[Blair]

These 6.5x55 loads in my Sako 85 Classic 22.441" barrel, are what I've used and proven safe for my rifle but maybe not safe for yours so work up carefully...

Sierra 140gr SPBT GameKing
RS62 - 45.0g
COL 2.960
Bullet L: 1.270"
Velocity: 2,686 fps
Velocity R: 6 fps
Repeatable accuracy sub 1/3"@100m

Sierra 120gr ProHunter
RS60 - 45.6g
COL: 2.985"
Bullet L: 1.065"
Velocity: 2,870 fps
Velocity R: 13 fps
Accuracy coming in sub 3/4" however this load needs tuning as changed to RS60 because of REACH restrictions on powders previously used (Reloder 17) not available.

Sierra 100gr Varminter
RS62 - 49.5g
COL: 2.830"
Bullet L: 0.935"
Velocity: 3,070 fps
Velocity R: 5 fps
Repeatable accuracy sub 1/3"@100m

I've tested and used a number of others but these are what I now stick with.

Many thanks Luckily had some info from the rifles previous owner on his home loads. Got a few loaded last night without powder so getting the swing of the cal now.

many thanks all feel a lot more confident now!

 

[Sako6.5x55]

Try buying QuickLOAD software, this is excellent for anyone reloading, it gives almost every calibre, every bullet head and powder option, it will calculate safe pressures, muzzle velocity and bullet drops. It tells you how much powder you've burned off before the bullet exits your barrel length, when powder manufacturers publish guidelines about safe bullet loads they have to play it safe, this software tells you what is safe and unsafe.
44gr will give you a MV of about 2824FPS and a chamber pressure of 41,314PSI and will burn approximately 99.96% of propellant before exiting barrel, 49gr will be totally unsafe, 46gr will start to putting you in higher pressures and will burn all propellant before exiting the barrel, 40gr will give MV of about 2578FPS and a chamber pressure 31,867.
These figures are what I've gained using the QuickLOAD program with the information you've supplied, it is in your interest to load the cartridge to a safe level and following the powder manufacturers guidelines.
PS. if powder is burned off before exiting barrel bullet is slowing down inside barrel.

 

[SCC]

 

[Border]

Try buying QuickLOAD software, this is excellent for anyone reloading, it gives almost every calibre, every bullet head and powder option, it will calculate safe pressures, muzzle velocity and bullet drops. It tells you how much powder you've burned off before the bullet exits your barrel length, when powder manufacturers publish guidelines about safe bullet loads they have to play it safe, this software tells you what is safe and unsafe.
44gr will give you a MV of about 2824FPS and a chamber pressure of 41,314PSI and will burn approximately 99.96% of propellant before exiting barrel, 49gr will be totally unsafe, 46gr will start to putting you in higher pressures and will burn all propellant before exiting the barrel, 40gr will give MV of about 2578FPS and a chamber pressure 31,867.
These figures are what I've gained using the QuickLOAD program with the information you've supplied, it is in your interest to load the cartridge to a safe level and following the powder manufacturers guidelines.
PS. if powder is burned off before exiting barrel bullet is slowing down inside barrel.

It is fun and informative to play around with but not the be all and end all. All of these programs are simulations and need tweeking to your individual firearms for optimum results. GRT and Borbals offering are in the same ballpark and available free. A chronograph is equally if not more useful in my opinion.
Cue @Muir

 

[Blair]

Try buying QuickLOAD software, this is excellent for anyone reloading, it gives almost every calibre, every bullet head and powder option, it will calculate safe pressures, muzzle velocity and bullet drops. It tells you how much powder you've burned off before the bullet exits your barrel length, when powder manufacturers publish guidelines about safe bullet loads they have to play it safe, this software tells you what is safe and unsafe.
44gr will give you a MV of about 2824FPS and a chamber pressure of 41,314PSI and will burn approximately 99.96% of propellant before exiting barrel, 49gr will be totally unsafe, 46gr will start to putting you in higher pressures and will burn all propellant before exiting the barrel, 40gr will give MV of about 2578FPS and a chamber pressure 31,867.
These figures are what I've gained using the QuickLOAD program with the information you've supplied, it is in your interest to load the cartridge to a safe level and following the powder manufacturers guidelines.
PS. if powder is burned off before exiting barrel bullet is slowing down inside barrel.

Very informative thanks for that. I have had a brief look at the software as thought would be practical in the future! Have had a load reccomended to me with 140gr sierra gamekings at 43.3gr of Rs60. But really need to check OAL. Currently my federal are 74.5mm, although reccomended is 80mm. So need a good measure up for my rifle see what i am working with!

 

[borbal]

Try buying QuickLOAD software,

As Border said above, you can save yourself £150 and use the online internal ballistics simulator P-Max which is available to you free at the click of a mouse! It will work with any bullet and any cartridge. The main difference to QuickLOAD and GRT is that you feed it the powder space behind the loaded bullet. However, as you really need to measure the case capacity to overflowing for your cases to get the best out of QuickLOAD and GRT, so measuring your powder space is easy to do and is not an extra burden. To get you started, there is a list of powder spaces for most common cartridges. The powder space for the 6.5 x 55 will be about 52.8 grains of water, which should be good for 120 grain bullets - a grain or so less for heavy bullets and a grain or so more for light bullets.

PS. if powder is burned off before exiting barrel bullet is slowing down inside barrel.

Not true! The bullet friction in the barrel will be easily overcome by the gas pressure behind the bullet at any point the barrel for any centrefire cartridge.

What is true is that the best "balanced" powder for your rifle is one where all-burnt occurs just before the bullet exits the barrel. Powders which are all-burnt well before the muzzle are usually too fast and you need high chamber pressures to get a respectable muzzle velocity. Powders which are too slow will not achieve good working pressures even with a compressed charge, and are not all-burnt by the time the bullet exits the barrel, and so expensive powder is being wasted.

 

[Sako6.5x55]

As Border said above, you can save yourself £150 and use the online internal ballistics simulator P-Max which is available to you free at the click of a mouse! It will work with any bullet and any cartridge. The main difference to QuickLOAD and GRT is that you feed it the powder space behind the loaded bullet. However, as you really need to measure the case capacity to overflowing for your cases to get the best out of QuickLOAD and GRT, so measuring your powder space is easy to do and is not an extra burden. To get you started, there is a list of powder spaces for most common cartridges. The powder space for the 6.5 x 55 will be about 52.8 grains of water, which should be good for 120 grain bullets - a grain or so less for heavy bullets and a grain or so more for light bullets.

Not true! The bullet friction in the barrel will be easily overcome by the gas pressure behind the bullet at any point the barrel for any centrefire cartridge.

What is true is that the best "balanced" powder for your rifle is one where all-burnt occurs just before the bullet exits the barrel. Powders which are all-burnt well before the muzzle are usually too fast and you need high chamber pressures to get a respectable muzzle velocity. Powders which are too slow will not achieve good working pressures even with a compressed charge, and are not all-burnt by the time the bullet exits the barrel, and so expensive powder is being wasted.

Hey, what do I know I’m just a poor boy from Stoke trying to get on in the world.
Seriously, I don’t know everything nor do I profess to, and I’m pleased that you are there to correct my errors, I was just trying to help a fellow stalker, and I’m very sorry if I mislead anyone.
I have a code in life where I believe that if I learn something every day then it’s been a good day, and when I get to my last I’ll be a much wiser man. Thank you for making my day!

 

[The deer man]

If anyone is serious about safe reloading they will buy the following or stick to factory ammo!

1. Load manuals for the bullets you use
2. Quickload or similar
3. Chronograph
4. Quality instrument for measuring ogive, case comparator and OAL

PLUS all the other paraphernalia and remember manuals and Quickload are not set in stone or the Bible and there are a number of other factors that effect pressure, velocity and accuracy but manuals can offer some good advice - strange that!

 

[Muir]

Jesus. You guys make it so difficult.
QL: No
Chrono: Maybe but there are ways around it.
Good books on reloading: Absolutely.~Muir

(A good Vernier caliper: Only measuring tool needed.)

 

[borbal]

Jesus. You guys make it so difficult.

No, reloading is not difficult. You just take a case, put a primer in the bottom, some powder in the middle and a bullet on the top. Put it in a gun and pull the trigger.... Bang!

The trick is using the right amount of the right kind of powder so you get the right kind of bang. Generally, you don't want to learn about such matters by experience...

 

[Muir]

... Generally, you don't want to learn about such matters by experience...

Of course you do. Find data for your cartridge, follow the data specs. Evaluate the results. ~Muir

 

[borbal]

Of course you do. Find data for your cartridge, follow the data specs. Evaluate the results. ~Muir

Confucius, he say,
"By three methods we may learn wisdom: First, by reflection, which is noblest; Second, by imitation, which is easiest; and third by experience, which is the bitterest."

Using a load from a book is learning by imitation, which is the easiest way to learn - though it does not necessary mean you understand what you are doing.

By using an internal ballistics simulator, you get some insight into how a given combination of powder, bullet and cartridge behaves in a particular gun. They give you an estimate of the peak pressure (which a lot of reloading manuals do not do), how far down the barrel the bullet has travelled at peak pressure, how much of the powder has burnt when the bullet exits the muzzle, and what the muzzle pressure is. When you are thinking about the profile of your barrel, the length of your barrel, and putting a sound moderator on the end of your barrel, this is all useful information you do not get out of a reloading manual. (None of this should be taken to suggest that a simulator should be used in preference to an appropriate reloading manual with regards to starting loads or maximum loads...)

I put it to you that the more you understand what is going on, the safer you will be

 

[Blair]

Jesus. You guys make it so difficult.
QL: No
Chrono: Maybe but there are ways around it.
Good books on reloading: Absolutely.~Muir

(A good Vernier caliper: Only measuring tool needed.)

All going well so far Books so far I own do not include any reload swiss powder or Nosler rounds which is most dissapointing but i am all ears to suggestion! Vernier Calliper Have been told about the candle trick for measuring distance to Lans! I am however a bit confused.

Specification states that 6.5x55 should have AOL of 80mm

upon measuring factory ammunition that the rifle has quite liked up until this point im measuring 75.2mm
The Rifles old owner has told me

1:8twist
620mm barrel length
43.3grRS60 powder
140Grain Ballistic tip (sierragame king/Nosler Accubond)
At a length of 87mm.

Does 87mm sound right to anyone?

 

[Sako6.5x55]

All going well so far Books so far I own do not include any reload swiss powder or Nosler rounds which is most dissapointing but i am all ears to suggestion! Vernier Calliper Have been told about the candle trick for measuring distance to Lans! I am however a bit confused.

Specification states that 6.5x55 should have AOL of 80mm

upon measuring factory ammunition that the rifle has quite liked up until this point im measuring 75.2mm
The Rifles old owner has told me

1:8twist
620mm barrel length
43.3grRS60 powder
140Grain Ballistic tip (sierragame king/Nosler Accubond)
At a length of 87mm.

Does 87mm sound right to anyone?

The specifications I have says 80mm, I‘ve just measured my home loads which are 140gr ELD-M and they measure 80.90mm. my 140gr SPs measure 77.65 but both have the same ogive length. Factory ammunition has to be shorter because all barrels and chambers are different.
This is the first time I’ve ever measured overall length, I only ever measure to the Ogive using a bullet comparator kit.
All my home loads for my 6.5x55 are within 2 thou of each other whether they are 129 SST, 140 SP except for 90gr which aren’t long enough.
I don’t understand why anyone would measure over a piece of plastic on a ballistic tip or over the end of a soft point, I thought we were looking for the distance the bullet jumps to the lands not how far the bullet goes down the barrel which will be massively different between a round nose bullet and a ballistic tip bullet.