A good set of vernier calipers?

petlowe

Well-Known Member
Mine are just some dodgy toolmart ones and I am chasing a grouping node that's somewhere between .020 to .025 seating depth and need to do it in small increments and feeling too much spring back in them.
I am already on spectacular results but building a ladder of .001 increments is way beyond what I am using.
 

On sale now and cheaper than when I bought them five years ago.
 
I've got a set of Facom analogue vernier calipers that will measure 0.05mm 0.002" so only half as accurate as the Mitutoyo ones above.


Was just about to stick them on ebay but you can buy them if you want. PM me if you're interested.
 
These digital calipers are very good value:


If you can do without the thumbwheel then this is a steal:

 
For seating depth I use my RCBS Precision Mic gauges. - Much better & more repeatable for me than playing with vernier calipers.
--- I have Mitutoyo and cheapo vernier calipers - The cheap ones are smoother than the Mitutoyos but do need zeroing often. The Mitutoyos are more accurate.
Ian
 
For seating depth I use my RCBS Precision Mic gauges. - Much better & more repeatable for me than playing with vernier calipers.
--- I have Mitutoyo and cheapo vernier calipers - The cheap ones are smoother than the Mitutoyos but do need zeroing often. The Mitutoyos are more accurate.
Ian
Nice. I am using a Redding comp seater which is giving me good repeatability and adjustment, how do you work from the Mic gauge to the seating depth or do you use this to measure it coming off the press?
 

On sale now and cheaper than when I bought them five years ago.

Thanks, reassuringly expensive, how springly are they as mine have at least 3 thou worth of flex in the jaws which is what I want to be rid of?
 
I've got a set of Facom analogue vernier calipers that will measure 0.05mm 0.002" so only half as accurate as the Mitutoyo ones above.


Was just about to stick them on ebay but you can buy them if you want. PM me if you're interested.
Not true, the accuracy of callipers is about the same, trust down to about .002" never better, how fine the readout is or how many decimal places is a waste of time.
If your wanting to work to =/- .001" you need something far more accurate and importantly, repeatable, a micrometer or hight gauge

Neil.
 
Not true, the accuracy of callipers is about the same, trust down to about .002" never better, how fine the readout is or how many decimal places is a waste of time.
If your wanting to work to =/- .001" you need something far more accurate and importantly, repeatable, a micrometer or hight gauge

Neil.
Good to know. I guess the accuracy of mine being stated as 0.002" is just the markings on it. It's analogue so you have to read the scale, there's no digital readout.
 
Good to know. I guess the accuracy of mine being stated as 0.002" is just the markings on it. It's analogue so you have to read the scale, there's no digital readout.
If your eye's are good, the very best kind, use mine all the time.
If you get it wrong with them it is without doubt your fault, not the callipers.

Neil.
 
Mine are just some dodgy toolmart ones and I am chasing a grouping node that's somewhere between .020 to .025 seating depth and need to do it in small increments and feeling too much spring back in them.
I am already on spectacular results but building a ladder of .001 increments is way beyond what I am using.
Given that there is likely a variation in the bullets between ogive to base, or ogive to bullet seating die stem, what have you been using to measure that? Your mensuration needs to be of consistent accuracy throughout obviously.

As @Hornet 6 I always preferred a vernier calliper or micrometer…until prestbyiopia arrived twenty years ago. Now Dial and Digital callipers are a Godsend.

I Check/Calibrate and wipe Jaws prior to every measurement. I use the section as close to the back of the jaw as possible and rely on feel to counter any flex, which on my 20 Year old £30 bracket callipers is less than 0.001 at “0”

Alan
 
I bought Draper, machine mart, sealy, all fell to pieces, faulty battery clip, lid, got fed up with that, bit the bullet & bought Mityuoto, well made but too accurate, I mean how accurate do you have to be? does it make that much difference? it just seems to make the job more fiddly, but I'm no expert.
 
Given that there is likely a variation in the bullets between ogive to base, or ogive to bullet seating die stem, what have you been using to measure that? Your mensuration needs to be of consistent accuracy throughout obviously.

As @Hornet 6 I always preferred a vernier calliper or micrometer…until prestbyiopia arrived twenty years ago. Now Dial and Digital callipers are a Godsend.

I Check/Calibrate and wipe Jaws prior to every measurement. I use the section as close to the back of the jaw as possible and rely on feel to counter any flex, which on my 20 Year old £30 bracket callipers is less than 0.001 at “0”

Alan

I weigh my projectiles all in batches of 500 and put them in a ogive comparator to eliminate the outliers to gashing case duties, the fun things you can do while stuck on conf calls in listen only mode.
In the load process then validate and sort by seating depth which is where I would like a little more precession out of the callipers as you are working on feel and tension which will vary a lot.
 
I weigh my projectiles all in batches of 500 and put them in a ogive comparator to eliminate the outliers to gashing case duties, the fun things you can do while stuck on conf calls in listen only mode.
In the load process then validate and sort by seating depth which is where I would like a little more precession out of the callipers as you are working on feel and tension which will vary a lot.
Is it variation in seating depth, or variation in ogive to the lands, you have found makes the most difference?

Alan
 
Is it variation in seating depth, or variation in ogive to the lands, you have found makes the most difference?

Alan

I work from lands back to ogive as that's a fixed datum, the lengths of individual projectiles is then less of a variable and easier to measure.
 
Having faffed around with cheap gauges for too many years I splashed out on a Mitutoya 500-752-20 four years ago - they were on special offer from H Roberts. These are in constant use (probably 3-4 times a week) and I am still on the original battery helped no doubt by it switching itself off after 1/2 hour of inactivity
 
Having faffed around with cheap gauges for too many years I splashed out on a Mitutoya 500-752-20 four years ago - they were on special offer from H Roberts. These are in constant use (probably 3-4 times a week) and I am still on the original battery helped no doubt by it switching itself off after 1/2 hour of inactivity

ignorance question, the code, what exactly does it mean on it as they make many and I am trying to work out what's what?
 
ignorance question, the code, what exactly does it mean on it as they make many and I am trying to work out what's what?
That's two of us being ignorant :D - I don't know either. Perhaps an email to H Roberts would answer your question unless some one on the forum has the knowledge.
 
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