Shoulder bump made easy?

Utectok

Well-Known Member
So if like me you struggle to get a consistent shoulder bumps and want a simple easy repeatable process I just discovered these

And a Body Die
Really fantastic I was amazed how good and easy it was.
 
Yes, but I fail to see why you would need them. If you have a body die you can set that up to do the 2thou shoulder bump using your usual shell holder. Once it's adjusted for that particular rifle then index mark the die and it's set for life.
Yes I’ve done that for years but whether it’s my press or my incompetence I’ve alway had a bit of wandering 1-2tho and this method I find more consistent. But I suspect I’ll still miss the odd deer whatever! ( one over the back this morning as I was in a rush and ranged the hill behind idiot )
 
So effectively they are moving the case further up into the die?

The opposite, controlling and limiting the depth into the die .


The topic comes up with regularly with regards to shoulder bump . There is an easy way to set a f/l die .

Push the ram with shellholder to the top .
Hold a feeler gauge on top allow room for the decapping pin to pass , wind the die in until it just touches.
Lock die , check space with gauge .
Size , measure and check chamber fit .
Start with 0.010 " and work down until you find the correct measurement .
 
The opposite, controlling and limiting the depth into the die .


The topic comes up with regularly with regards to shoulder bump . There is an easy way to set a f/l die .

Push the ram with shellholder to the top .
Hold a feeler gauge on top allow room for the decapping pin to pass , wind the die in until it just touches.
Lock die , check space with gauge .
Size , measure and check chamber fit .
Start with 0.010 " and work down until you find the correct measurement .
If all else stays the same and you increase the height of the shell holder by 2thou then the case is forced up into the die further.
The die is fixed and does not move. The shell holder is moved up into the die, No?
 
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Am I missing something? If the shoulder is too high then the bolt won't close. If its say 1-2 thou low then surely the case just gets fire formed in the chamber when fired?
 
If all else stays the same and you increase the height of the shell holder by 2thou then the case is forced up into the die further.
The die is fixed and does not move. The shell holder is moved up into the die, No?
The feeler gauge simply sets the die one thou higher than if touching the shell holder, which can't force the case any higher in use. Instead of the usual screw the die in until it touches, and then by a quarter turn more, you're actually turning the die until it touches and backing off by 1 thou.

Inconsistencies I've found can happen when too little lube is used in FL sizing or when the die hasn't been cleaned out for yonks. Lowering the shell holder to remove the case can cause the case to stretch slightly if it grabs, altering the sizing to the shoulder. The secret to consistency is start with a clean die, use just enough lube and set the die for zero or 1 thou bump. Works for me. I start by measuring some fire formed cases with old primers removed so use a decapper as the first stage in my reloading to check the measurement. It also allows my "Raptor Calls" annealer to spin the things properly which it doesn't do with old primers in.
 
If all else stays the same and you increase the height of the shell holder by 2thou then the case is forced up into the die further.
The die is fixed and does not move. The shell holder is moved up into the die, No?
Opposite, shellholder is standard shellholder plus 0.002 to 0.010 in 2 thou increments. So the distance between the case head and the top of the shellholder increases .
Minimum case dimensions would be achieved using a standard shellholder . F/L dies are minimum spec to be able to accommodate all all of specified cases .
 
The feeler gauge simply sets the die one thou higher than if touching the shell holder, which can't force the case any higher in use. Instead of the usual screw the die in until it touches, and then by a quarter turn more, you're actually turning the die until it touches and backing off by 1 thou.

Inconsistencies I've found can happen when too little lube is used in FL sizing or when the die hasn't been cleaned out for yonks. Lowering the shell holder to remove the case can cause the case to stretch slightly if it grabs, altering the sizing to the shoulder. The secret to consistency is start with a clean die, use just enough lube and set the die for zero or 1 thou bump. Works for me. I start by measuring some fire formed cases with old primers removed so use a decapper as the first stage in my reloading to check the measurement. It also allows my "Raptor Calls" annealer to spin the things properly which it doesn't do with old primers in.

Have you tried Hornady One Shot aerosol .
Doesn't gum up the dies . Again, not everyone likes it .
 
Have you tried Hornady One Shot aerosol .
Doesn't gum up the dies . Again, not everyone likes it .
I haven't as I normally use Imperial Wax. Used to get the odd case sticking a bit, but got into the habit of cleaning dies and using just the right amount of wax and no more issues. Can usually size to within a thou each time now.
 
Be careful, I found that tightening the die locking ring grub screw actually decreased the length of die, making die removal tight, had to use pliers. Its a fiddle, but once set never would like to alter it.
 
I haven't as I normally use Imperial Wax. Used to get the odd case sticking a bit, but got into the habit of cleaning dies and using just the right amount of wax and no more issues. Can usually size to within a thou each time now

Previous studies have highlighted the importance of both the lube used, amount applied, and application method . I've always found Imperial very good. There are many factors involved in getting a consistent shoulder bump, but case lubrication is far more important than many probably realise.
 
Absolutely Laurie. I've been using Imperial for years now and have no plans to change to anything else.
 
What’s the best way to fully clean your dies guys?

Because I have a 25% by volume mix of Iso-prop to distilled water for cleaning LPs, I use that for the dies too. You can just use meths on a cotton bud or small bottle brush. A quick rub with a clean rag or bore mop and job done. I clean mine every few uses after batch sizing cases. It's surprising how mucky they can get which is just another variable you don't want for reloading, so better to remove that variable.
 
Some good tips guys I’ll maybe pay more attention to my lube as the actress said to the vicar
 
I had an issue with 7.65x53 Argentine cases that would not chamber after FL sizing I first took some material off from the top of the shell holder which then broke as it was too weak to pull the case down out of the FL die, then I took 20 thou off from the bottom of the RCBS die which in effect dropped the shoulder down ca. 18-20 thou which cured the problem.
 
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