Frankford Arsenal and AMP Annealing in the morning...

Yikes. I reload for accuracy. 5 chamberings probably cheaper if I exclude time. And so replicable for poi. Not a lot. Mainly stalking and a bit if range work BSRC. Couple sessions a year in gunroom
I feel happier taking a Sika in Sutherland at 250 dialling in knowing where bullet will land. Probably cheaper but not main aim

For my 375 way way cheaper and ditto
S
 
...a cut up privacy curtain will work to catch all the pins and brass, while allowing it to drain in the sink. I just use an old colander, lined with the curtain material and dump the brass into it for draining. I'd think cheese cloth would work as well...

No. No they don't...

Ask me how I know...

Go on.

Ask me...

are the pins not stainless steel? if so unlikely to be magnetic 😊
Actually, they are magnetic...

Ask me how I know...

Go on.

Ask me...


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Another hour of my life, I am not getting back...🥺
 
Ah! Into every life a little rain etc.....
But fear not - in only just over a week you are certain to win the monthly draw; now that I have entered.
Reassuringly, I hear there are three prizes again this month - all 5kgs bags of pins - just think of the fun you will have......
🐺🐺
 
Emm. Not wishing to twist the proverbial and it may well be duff photography a trick of the light but some of those primer holes look rather erratic and kinda large….
Just saying.
🦊🦊
 
... some of those primer holes look rather erratic and kinda large…
Fcuk off!

I mean - no they are fine - it's a 'trick of the light' - they will all get a clean out before I fcuk up proceed to the annealing stage.

I would not care, but they are for a friend of mine.:rolleyes:

And yes, I know...

I note @Muir comments:- Never load for anyone. Never shoot anyone's reloads.~Muir
 
Fcuk off!

I mean - no they are fine - it's a 'trick of the light' - they will all get a clean out before I fcuk up proceed to the annealing stage.

I would not care, but they are for a friend of mine.:rolleyes:

And yes, I know...

I note @Muir comments:- Never load for anyone. Never shoot anyone's reloads.~Muir
Well that’s all right then!
None taken…..
🦊🦊
 
I bought some neodymium bar magnets 40mm long 2mm square, fitted one into an old small chisel handle and use it to wiggle test each case inside before proceding. PM me if you cannot find one on the net.
 
I remove the cleaned cases from the tumbler individually and any that have pins stuck in them get cleared there and then.
That way only clean, pin free brass is left and all the pins stay in the tumbler.
OK, it maybe takes a little longer, but it works for the relatively small number of cases I clean at a time

Cheers

Bruce
 
I've been SS pin tumbling for well over a decade, never had a pin left in the cases. (Had a few jammed in 6.5mm case mouths but those get chucked in the bin and after a few washes you don't get that happening) :)

I tip out most of the dirty water down the sink and then dump what's left with the cases and pins into large bucket.

Fill with warm water (helps when you have arthritic hands!), then it's hands in, pick up a load of cases in one hand and take out batches of 4 or 5 in the other primer side upwards, shake out pins back into bucket, give a rinse and shake a second time.

The drop those into a 3L plastic jug and repeat until all cases done.

After that rinse with clean water and a drop of dish washer rinse aid, Put macnetic stick (as seen above) into bottom of jug and mix up/swirl the cases and check for any pins on the magnet (very rarely get any)

Same process using 1.5mm SS ball bearings but extra check on cases with small primer pockets as you get the odd bunch of 3 in them sometimes!. Easiest way to dislodge is drop them into the rinsing jug with a bit of added force so they get knocked out then collect with magnet stick :)
 
I fitted an outside sink, so SHMBO doesnt get her kitchen domain interfered with, except when I need the freezer and oven for fitting bearings to greasy mechanical things, or the dishwasher for degreasing motorcycle parts( while shes out obviously).

I tip de primed cases, pins and dirty water into a shallow bucket, its actually a caravan washing up bowl I think. Pour off the bulk of dirty water, then refill with warm clean. Then hand pick the cases, shuggling them in the water and then checking each case. Cases go into an aldi mesh vegetable bag for drying in the airing cupboard.

Then I imitate panning for gold like in the old cowboy movies pouring the water out of the bowl till only the pins are left. Add fresh water, and pour them back it to the tumbler.

Its a right clart on, and if my time wasn’t free, far cheaper to go and buy factory rounds.
 
Then hand pick the cases, shuggling them in the water and then checking each case.

Its a right clart on...
Nice to see the local dialect getting an airing.


Well after owning the AMP Annealer for (almost) three years. It finally got a dust off this morning.

100 pieces of .243 brass and 100 pieces of .308 brass.

I went full "Aztec mode" and sacrificed one (actual two but that is another story) piece of brass for each batch.
The machine cooks the sacrificial piece to death, but on the way, it works out the exact point for the percent anneal and then gives you that code to use.


This gave the the perfect setting for that particular batch of brass.

All done in about 45/60.

Just need to pack it away for another three years now...:rolleyes:


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Errr, I am saying nothing, nada, rien about the two cases in the rhs corner or their primers…
These are the sacrificial cases, (which are destroyed), when you put the machine into "Aztec" mode.

Whilst one piece of brass from a batch is destroyed, it gives you a code to input in the machine for the rest of that batch - thus giving a 'perfect' annealing time for each subsequent piece of brass from that batch.

I have included the sacrificial cases (along with their bespoke code) for reference and any subsequent annealing of that batch.

A picture paints...


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.243 on top, .308 underneath. Note the melting of the necks.
 
Yesterday found me dicking about at Bisley.

One of the rifles I took is an old (obsolete calibre) 8x58RD Rifle.

It has a rolling block action, and I had made up some black powder rounds for it. Having fired off about five rounds, I got as much pleasure from the rest of the Squad having a shot or two with it.

This extraordinary generous display of my good nature left me with an opportunity.:rolleyes:

So this morning I broke out the Frankford Arsenal stainless steel, tumbling cleaner thingy.

All brass was deprimed (well done S62 you are making progress...) and left tumbling for three hours down in the 'Man Shed" in a solution of tap water and some magic potion from Frankford.

When finished the inside of the drum looked murky...

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Carefully decanting the brass, left me quietly surprised.

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I drained off the rest of the water and poured it gingerly down Mrs.S62's kitchen sink - carefully trying not to lose any of the tiny steel pins.

Because they were loaded with Black Power the kitchen now has an 'interesting' sulphur aroma...wonder it that will dissipate before she gets home.:oops:

I then stuck the brass in the oven, on a tray for five minutes on the lowest setting. Once 'cooked' I examined each case for signs of a steel pin.

With the next step to AMP anneal them, a steel pin falling out of the brass into the gubbins will prove fatal to the Magic Box and will invalidate the guarantee.







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Once I set up the AMP, I tried to use the "Standard" setting for this brass. It did not end well. The brass came out red hot and melting.

It was at this point that I put my "Big Boy Pants" on.

I have never previously used the AZTEC mode of this AMP (because I am a bit IT thick) but the drama with the first piece of brass drove me to it.


This brass is horrendously expensive and this batch is made up of Bertram (predominately) and a few Norma.

To get the exact code for each brand/type and even lot of brass, you have to sacrifice one piece. The Magic Box cooks that piece to death - but in so doing gives you the exact code you need for the rest of the batch.

Here are the first piece of "Standard Code" brass and then the two "Sacrificial" pieces of brass for each manufacturer.


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If it helps anyone out there:-

8x58RD Bertram Brass = AMP Annealing code 0122
8x58RD Norma Brass = AMP Annealing code 0155


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Once you have these codes you are good to go.

Quite the morning.
Fry some onions before she gets in
 
These are the sacrificial cases, (which are destroyed), when you put the machine into "Aztec" mode.

Whilst one piece of brass from a batch is destroyed, it gives you a code to input in the machine for the rest of that batch - thus giving a 'perfect' annealing time for each subsequent piece of brass from that batch.

I have included the sacrificial cases (along with their bespoke code) for reference and any subsequent annealing of that batch.

A picture paints...


View attachment 278061

.243 on top, .308 underneath. Note the melting of the necks.
Wow! I of course had every confidence…. Clever lad and even more clever machine.
As it was obviously quite testing to work your way through the process I thought you might wish to relax to the following piece of music…..
🦊🦊
 
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