Most A4 paper is about 4 to 5 thou thick, so disk of paper diameter of a cartridge head. Stick it on the head and see if it will chamber. Should be tight closing. Add two disks and it shouldn’t close.
Printer paper does vary a lot in thickness. And is soft. A better thing to use is Scotch Magic Tape, which is very uniformly 2.5/1000" thick and much better as a shim material for this sort of measurement.
Useful for checking e.g. headspace when setting up resizing dies for minimal shoulder bump. E.g. if going for say 2/1000", the bolt should no more than stiffen up slightly with one layer stuck on the head, and become hard with two layers. Comparators can only get you so close, the real test is chambering in your rifle.
Chambers may not conform absolutely precisely to specified shoulder dimensions (for bottlenecked chamberings). SAAMI specify the reference point in a simplistic way, CIP do it better, based on shoulder angle. Some comparators just use a plain drilled hole in soft aluminium. Others use a conical hole for the precise shoulder angle of the cartridge, made from stainless steel. Fortunately most body comparator inserts are made to a sort of industry standard, so are interchangeable between comparator bodies. The plain hole type are inexpensive and only a small set is needed to cover a wide range of chamberings. The conical shoulder angle type have to be matched to the shoulder angle of the specific chambering being measured. Swings and roundabouts, don't really cost much more if you only buy the ones you need, pay your money and make your choice.
But do note there is a variation in the length of factory cartridges- they are with spec, but some will give a slightly stiff bolt close.
Indeed, but factory cartridges are generally made to cartridge min./max. dimensions. Which are supposed to sit within chamber max./min. The tolerance band is quite large, and can even overlap slightly. You can learn something from this sort of test, but nothing near precisely enough to compare with the gauges used for proof testing, or making rifles in the first place.
E.g a 308 Winchester chamber length can be from 1.630 to 1.640" Whereas the ammunition can be from 1.627 to 1.634" in length. So headspace of the combination could be anywhere from +0.013" to negative 0.004" The negative headspace possibility (delta L problem) would definitely result in tight bolt closure, even though everything is in spec. Quite a few common cartridges also have a delta L mismatch, which could account for some reports of some factory ammo being hard to chamber. I blame SAAMI for, basically, getting this wrong, but these SAAMI specs. are pretty much cast in stone, so have to be translated as-is by CIP so aren't going to be updated. Pure CIP chamberings are I think better done
Delta L problem - Wikipedia
I don't think you can really learn much from e.g. experimenting with bits of printer paper.
Well made modern rifles will probably be made with chambers close to minimum length. Sako and Tikka seem to do this. And shouldn't be expected to alter much in use, with sensible cleaning and lubrication of the critical interfaces.
Switch barrels introduce a whole extra layer of potential issues. None, AFAIK are made in the UK, so the interchangeable bits and pieces will be proofed according to the methods agreed by their proof authorities, and CIP committees. Relying on ultra precision manufacturing, in process gauging, statistical process control, the use of co-ordinate measuring technology etc. etc.
I understand that one US manufacturer, Savage, has had a go at making a straight pull switch barrel, still relying on the cost-effective barrel nut method of setting headspace rather than precision machining, or selective-fit recoil lugs (Remington method), which has not as yet been a success. I think you have to look to Europe to know how to do this well. Which is technically complex, and expensive.
For whatever reason this question came up in the back of a beaters wagon yesterday, if a rifle has incorrect headspace, will/can it still pass proof?
It should not. And if detected at proof, the original proof marks should be struck out. It would need to be corrected then re-submitted. If suspecting that a rifle might not be correct best to get it checked first by someone with gauges. BTW you can do an approximate rudimentary test with only a go gauge, using the Scotch Magic Tape trick or proper engineering shim stock , to shim the go gauge into a no-go gauge. These gauges are not inexpensive.
The proof houses use precisely calibrated, and regularly re-calibrated ones.