Levelling a rifle scope

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The Singing Stalker

The Singing Stalker

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So just looking at my scopes and they are all sort of done by eye with a little help from levels. But I would like to source a good repeatable system.
I have seen one with bubbles on a thin rod so it will fit on my pic rail and a magnet holds it firm and another level that sits on the scope cap. But I can’t find it anywhere.
Another I am looking at is this triangle one but my scope tends to be close to the rail so don’t know if it will fit.
Amazon product ASIN B096X2VV8V
so what you using To level your rifle and scope.
 
www.thestalkingdirectory.co.uk

Bore/Scope collimators

As bullets are becoming harder to find I am no longer quite as keen to throw half a dozen rounds downrange to sight my rifles in so I am looking at buying a bore collimator. Specifically I have been looking at this one made by Bushnell: Does anyone have any experience of them?
www.thestalkingdirectory.co.uk www.thestalkingdirectory.co.uk

You don't need to use the collimator pictured in the above post.

I also use Spuhr levelling wedges similar to what is pictured in your post. But these need adequate scope/rail/receiver clearance to work properly.

Another method is using feeler gauges and getting a stack that just slides underneath the base of the scope turret housing (which is hopefully flat and level to the reticle).

Something to consider, what do you deem to be 'level'?

I prefer to level off the receiver, but only a few of them are flat at the top (like a Tikka T3). Some people use the inside feed rails/bolt raceway as a guide.

Whether you actually hold the rifle level is a totally different subject...:-| :scared:
 
As Caberslash says with the feeler gauges...a pack of playing cards will achieve the same effect if need be.

You can also use the torch down the scope from objective to ocular and a plumbline. You have to level the rifle also so a level surface (scope rail is what I use).

Plenty of videos on YouTube to this method.
 
enfieldspares said:
Mk1 Eyeball and a plumb bob! That and a truly vertical reference, either a door jamb or window upright you've put a spirit level to or, if not, as said a length of wool taped to the top of a door frame with a weight on the end as a plumb bob.
Click to expand...
You can use a torch too, project the light through, you'll see the reticle projected onto the wall with the plum bob and ensure it's in line.
 
triggertrix said:
Sorry, but if the scope gets on target what’s the problem? If it does not, get better mounts/rings
Click to expand...
If the scope isn't level to the bore and action then the adjustments won't be perfectly vertical or horizontal. Fine to zero it but if you have any interest in shooting beyond your zero then it can impact the accuracy of the clicks or holdover or holding for wind.
 
caberslash said:
Whether you actually hold the rifle level is a totally different subject...
Click to expand...
This^

Can’t see the point in putting a bubble on the action when I have never had a level action when holding a rifle in the most natural/comfortable shooting position.

The only things I see as important is that the reticle is plumb (when holding the rifle naturally) and that the crosshair and bore are vertically aligned (which they will be after zeroing).

If you want to use a bubble level for longer range stuff, just make sure the bubble is true to the reticle.
 
caberslash said:
I prefer to level off the receiver, but only a few of them are flat at the top (like a Tikka T3)
Click to expand...
Top of my T3 is really warped - no chance of levelling off that even if I wanted to. Pic rails need bedding and screws carefully tightening on that action to avoid a bent rail and misaligned rings. One piece mount is good solution 👍
 
The Singing Stalker said:
So just looking at my scopes and they are all sort of done by eye with a little help from levels. But I would like to source a good repeatable system.
I have seen one with bubbles on a thin rod so it will fit on my pic rail and a magnet holds it firm and another level that sits on the scope cap. But I can’t find it anywhere.
Another I am looking at is this triangle one but my scope tends to be close to the rail so don’t know if it will fit.
Amazon product ASIN B096X2VV8V
so what you using To level your rifle and scope.
Click to expand...
Back to the OP I have one of these kits an as long as you have a picatinny rail or flat top to the action then they work very well and are really quick to use. One something with a cut out action for top loading (Sako 75 etc) you don't have anywhere to put it and if you use a one piece mount it may not be flat or not enough room to get it through if it's a close fit.

When you tighten down the scope do it just enough so you're confident the scope won't move while removing the wedge and no more. If you tighten the scope fully you'll jam the wedge in and have to loosen the scope to get it out🤦🏻‍♂️
 
GrizZLy9 said:
This^

Can’t see the point in putting a bubble on the action when I have never had a level action when holding a rifle in the most natural/comfortable shooting position.

The only things I see as important is that the reticle is plumb (when holding the rifle naturally) and that the crosshair and bore are vertically aligned (which they will be after zeroing).

If you want to use a bubble level for longer range stuff, just make sure the bubble is true to the reticle.
Click to expand...
THLR on YouTube did some good videos on this after setting his scope up to be 100% level to the action and bore. He then had a digital level on his scope and held the rifle with his eyes closed where he felt was perfectly level and he was never more than one or two degrees out.

I've done the same using a plumb line, closing my eyes and settling into what I think is holding the rifle straight and it's pretty accurate every time.

As I said before, if the vertical post on the reticle isn't exactly lined up in line with the bore of the rifle then all the scope adjustments will be out of sync. The vertical adjustment will move the poi horizontally and vica versa.
 
GrizZLy9 said:
This^

Can’t see the point in putting a bubble on the action when I have never had a level action when holding a rifle in the most natural/comfortable shooting position.

The only things I see as important is that the reticle is plumb (when holding the rifle naturally) and that the crosshair and bore are vertically aligned (which they will be after zeroing).

If you want to use a bubble level for longer range stuff, just make sure the bubble is true to the reticle.
Click to expand...
At hunting distances you a right it makes no real difference but at longer ranges having the action level and the cross hairs vertical does effect dialing in.
 
nun_hunter said:
THLR on YouTube did some good videos on this after setting his scope up to be 100% level to the action and bore. He then had a digital level on his scope and held the rifle with his eyes closed where he felt was perfectly level and he was never more than one or two degrees out.

I've done the same using a plumb line, closing my eyes and settling into what I think is holding the rifle straight and it's pretty accurate every time.
Click to expand...
What other people find is irrelevant though - it’s down you and how you hold that specific stock. Most of it comes down to how you hold the pistol grip. For example my PSE E-lite stock is nowhere near level when I hold the stock naturally.
 
Pete6.5 said:
At hunting distances you a right it makes no real difference but at longer ranges having the action level and the cross hairs vertical does effect dialing in.
Click to expand...
How and why does it affect it? If you have the reticle dead vertical and it is in line the bore, what influence does the angle of the action have on anything?
 
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