Any .375 Winchester users here?

In my experiences with cast bullets in deer compatible lever action cartridges I generally got more DRT deer with cast than I did with jacketed that’s in everything from a 30-30 up to and Including the 45-70 . May have been a bunch of lucky after the facts , but that was my experience. In the 444 and to a lesser degree the 45-70 I tried just about all the bullet molds I liked including HP’s . That 330 grain Gould HP bullet that Ideal/Lyman cut knocked the fire out of for Virginia a huge bodied 6 point whitetail , needless to say he was DRT . For the 444 I think I tried upwards of 7 or 8 different HP designs and if memory serves all but one of them killed the deer DRT . Never tried HP in the smaller cartridges .
 
There was a fellow called Ranchdog on a couple of the forums I frequented and he developed his own design of cast bullets specifically for lever action hunting . And for some reason he usually got a mold to me for paper and field testing before he started cutting for sale . Later on I kinda cut some hybrids of his molds just for myself and had satisfying results .
 
Never owned a 375 Winchester. I had a 38-55 in a 1893 Marlin and didn't see the point in getting a 375 WIn. ~Muir
At the time I fooled with this stuff I was accumulating Marlin levers and had a pair of 375’s as well as several in 38-55 . I’ve been known to overdue things in gun related stuff that intrested me . Lols !
 
True, but I was working with 30 caliber at velocities up to 2750 fps. For guns like 38-55 and 45-70 I never gave soft or hard a thought. ~Muir
Being in the UK, and not having a lot of exposure to hunting with cast, this is an interesting prospect. Some time ago I picked up some ingots of alloy that had a ring to then when I hit them with a steel bar. Turns out the hardness is 22.7BHN according to a friend who has tested one. That should probably do for 1800fps or so if the fit is right, shouldn't it?
 
Being in the UK, and not having a lot of exposure to hunting with cast, this is an interesting prospect. Some time ago I picked up some ingots of alloy that had a ring to then when I hit them with a steel bar. Turns out the hardness is 22.7BHN according to a friend who has tested one. That should probably do for 1800fps or so if the fit is right, shouldn't it?
This is a hard one to swallow, but velocity, as such, is not the main factor to leading. It's pressure. And as I've often said, pressure and velocity are not chained at the wrist and ankles. If you need convincing, you only need to look at the old Lyman manuals for cast bullets using some charge of fast burning shotgun powder that developed 1800 fps and 45K pressure. Your metal has a Bhn of linotype. Be aware that IF you induce leading it will be very difficult to remove.

Clean all traces of copper fouling from your gun before you start.
Yes. A properly fit bullet and using the powder charge that develops the least pressure while giving you the velocity you are after, should be fine with that alloy. ~Muir
 
Being a straight case you could easily add a grease cookie. Ideally it would be with a case full of powder if possible.
You melt beeswax and olive oil until you get the beeswax stiff but workable..
Poor it onto grease proof paper and put a sheet on top.
Once cooled and set stamp wads out with a suitable sized leather punch.
It keeps the pressure and heat off the direct surface of the bullet. Lubes the bore which is always good shooting laed.
 
Being a straight case we have options.
Some will add leather wads or felt wads with lube added.
Just like 22 shoots soft lead well once the bore is coated in bullet lube we can do the same here only we need some kind of firewall also if no copper gas check is there.
The only other fly in the ointment is the bore size. It could run .379"! If we only have .377" bullet that could cause issues!
 
I guess the first job will be to slug it, see where it's at.

I'm not sure I like the sound of hard leading being tough to remove! Maybe I'll start out soft and slow, work up slowly looking for signs and also only harden the alloy as much as needed?

I'm open to cookies of lube, leather wads, paper patching etc. Whatever works if it saves me bother with cleaning! I started gas checking heavier bullets for my .45-70 and that allowed much better performance, but that then holds me to being able to buy, or make, gas checks. I'd rather avoid it if possible.

This is all very new to me. I've read a fair bit about cast bullets but haven't done much. Just gentle .45-70 and .357 loads for plinking really.
 
Maybe ask Shellhouse what diameter this is:


See when you slug the bore you can get there?

Scrummy
The link brother says sized and lubed at .376"! Might not be enough..

It maybe possible to lap a set of Lee moulds open enough if required.
 
Being a straight case you could easily add a grease cookie. Ideally it would be with a case full of powder if possible.
You melt beeswax and olive oil until you get the beeswax stiff but workable..
Poor it onto grease proof paper and put a sheet on top.
Once cooled and set stamp wads out with a suitable sized leather punch.
It keeps the pressure and heat off the direct surface of the bullet. Lubes the bore which is always good shooting laed.
There’s certainly nothing wrong with plain base cast bullets but I tended to prefer gas check cast bullets over the plain base .
 
I’ve used the 38-55 and the 375 WIN . It’s basically the same case , while the 375 cases might be a tad stronger in the web . I’ve killed deer with both cartridges . In the 375 I’ve killed deer with jacketed bullets and with bullets I cast myself . In the 38-55 I only used home cast bullets and killed deer . To be honest the first deer I ever killed using a cast bullet was in a Marlin 336CB in 38-55 using a 264 grain GC bullet pushed at about 1400 FPS . Shot him behind the shoulder at 60 yards with a tang sight . Deer took about six steps forward and fell over . That was also the first deer I did in with a lever action . With the 375 WIN I had a pair of Marlin levers both were scoped but one was for cast bullets and the other for jacketed . And as you might expect both passed muster just fine , to be honest I think the cast bullets did a better job . But then my opinion might be biased .
The .375 is actually thicker in the neck as well. Enough that, using it to form 32-40, the necks have to be turned. Which when using 30-30 brass, is not required.
 
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I guess the first job will be to slug it, see where it's at.

I'm not sure I like the sound of hard leading being tough to remove! Maybe I'll start out soft and slow, work up slowly looking for signs and also only harden the alloy as much as needed?

I'm open to cookies of lube, leather wads, paper patching etc. Whatever works if it saves me bother with cleaning! I started gas checking heavier bullets for my .45-70 and that allowed much better performance, but that then holds me to being able to buy, or make, gas checks. I'd rather avoid it if possible.

This is all very new to me. I've read a fair bit about cast bullets but haven't done much. Just gentle .45-70 and .357 loads for plinking really.
You might consider just powder coating your cast bullets. It's a fairly recent development here in the US that is gaining a lot of following in the pistol community. You would still need to keep the velocities (relatively) low, but it would alleviate any concerns of leading your barrel.

How to Powder Coat Your Bullet | US Reloading Supply
 
The link brother says sized and lubed at .376"! Might not be enough..

It maybe possible to lap a set of Lee moulds open enough if required.
Interesting.

If you read buffalo bore’s site they say on varying bore size for 38-55s which go from 377 to 381 thou



375 BORE RIFLES

We use a bullet that is sized .377 inch. I am aware that 375 Winchester chambered rifles utilize a .375 inch bore. When fired, the .377 inch bullet will slug/size right down to .375 without raising pressures (we’ve tested the heck out of this) this is in part due to the construction of the bullet, but also due to our powder choice.

.381 BORE RIFLES

We are also aware that many old 38-55 rifles utilize a bore diameter of up to .381 inch, but most are between .377 and .380 inch. At 38,000 cup, there is enough pressure generated by this cartridge to cause that .377 diameter bullet to hit the rifling lands and slug up to the bore diameter (all the way up to .381 inch) and give wonderful accuracy.”

So you might find the Shellhouse bullet might “slug up”

Worth a try?

Scrummy
 
Circa a dozen years ago mate Frank G (co inventor of Woodleigh Hydro bullets with John M) shot a water buff up north using the .375 big bore with a W hydro bullet. It went THROUGH the considerably thick horn into the neck and was recovered in the hip!
 
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