Detachable scope mounts yay or nay

[Reloader708]

Examples of people's experiences with detachable scope mounts please. I've never bothered or had any experience with them before and feel quite sceptical but needs must, I'm haveing to run a scope between two rifles so detachable mounts are in order.
I've always run warne and see they do detachable mounts but the one peice jobs that clip direct to a piticany look better.
Main thing, do they actually hold zero?
Thanks in advance.

 

[gixer1]

Yes, I have Leupold QR cam lock type on two of my rifles - both can be removed, remounted and they are spot on. Have demonstrated it to others on numerous occasions.

Regards,
Gixer

 

[Trigger260]

I run warne and leupolds on the 6.5 without issue

 

[palo]

My mate has warne on his thermal scope and swaps it between his 22lr and 204 regularly with no loss of zero.

 

[jthyttin]

Unless both rifles have picatinny rail from same manufacturer, or both rails AND the mount is in picatinny spec, you're better off with bolt style mount and torque wrench vs. QD mount. Many rails and mounts, even from big name manufacturers, are not in spec and with QD you end up adjusting the clamp and it plays havoc with your zero.

I'd go for single piece mount, where scope body plays no part in "detachability". And do mark where the mount is supposed to be on the rail.

 

[Scarpa]

I have Sauer HexaLock mounts for swapping between a light boar scope and a standard stalking scope. I haven't noticed any shift in impact when swapping betwen them. The bases are fixed to the rifle so it seems a very secure system.

 

[Steve Q]

Buy decent quality and you will be fine, however perhaps you should consider spending the money on a second scope?
Hawke do some really good optics for very reasonable prices. For what you will need to spend on decent QR rings you could get a whole scope, even if second hand.

 

[Beretta shooter]

Ziegler mounts are the way to go, at one time I was swapping between 3 scopes on the same rifle and never lost zero once. Expensive but fantastic!

 

[scotch_egg]

I have Dolphin picatinny mounts on a pard DS35 and Tier One mounts in a Minox ZP5. I was scopes on the picatinny rail wi to no loss of zero.

Don’t forget it’s the quality of the rail as well as the mounts.

 

[Nkawu]

I have Talley, Warne and Alaska Arms. No issues taking scopes on and off.

 

[kripton]

If your rifles are both Schultz and Larsen their "slide and lock" mounts return to zero.

 

[PhilSN12]

I use American Defence, Burris & Warrne. All do the job and return to zero.

 

[Sika98k]

Like a lot of others I have used Warne QD rings with no issues.

 

[Popa ray]

I have Dolphin picatinny mounts on a pard DS35 and Tier One mounts in a Minox ZP5. I was scopes on the picatinny rail wi to no loss of zero.

Don’t forget it’s the quality of the rail as well as the mounts.

What are good quality rails, I'm looking to get one for a tikka 75.
Ray

 

[scotch_egg]

What are good quality rails, I'm looking to get one for a tikka 75.
Ray

I’m going to extrapolate it’s a sako 75.

I recommend the Near rail it is a steel interference fit rail. Comes from Canada so no import duty. I’m not a fan of the mounts that bolt together use optilock mounts with a rail screwed on top.

 

[Clive Ward]

My biggest 'tip' when using removable mounts is:

Mount and demount them 10 times before you zero the rifle. This will remove any high spots from the mounts / rail and bed them properly for best repeatability.

Then make sure you follow the same process every time you fit them. For me it's roll onto the rail with the recoil bar in the correct slot (I mark it). Push all the way forward against the stop and nip up front then back. Then full tighten front then back, be that thumb lever, cam or torque wrench.


Cheers





Clive

 

[Klenchblaize]

If you are desireth of true/meaningful scope return to zero after removal & repositioning of said instrument, do not kid yourself that this is achievable with an aftermarket rail and tip-off rings.

K

 

[Tegner]

Leupold & Warne been on my Sauer 90 for over 20 years, never been a problem

 

[Popa ray]

I’m going to extrapolate it’s a sako 75.

I recommend the Near rail it is a steel interference fit rail. Comes from Canada so no import duty. I’m not a fan of the mounts that bolt together use optilock mounts with a rail screwed on top.

Haha, yes I have a rail on my 595 tikka.
It is as you say, my sako 75 that I need a rail for
Ray

 

[Popa ray]

My biggest 'tip' when using removable mounts is:

Mount and demount them 10 times before you zero the rifle. This will remove any high spots from the mounts / rail and bed them properly for best repeatability.

Then make sure you follow the same process every time you fit them. For me it's roll onto the rail with the recoil bar in the correct slot (I mark it). Push all the way forward against the stop and nip up front then back. Then full tighten front then back, be that thumb lever, cam or torque wrench.


Cheers





Clive

Good tip Clive