Starter fly fishing

[boar & deer]

I'm looking at getting into fly fishing for trout I've got lessons booked but was wondering what would be a decent starter setup something that will last and I won't need to replace later on also any other bits and bobs you recommend I'm a complete novice to fly fishing but not to carp coarse and sea fishing

 

[gr cz527]

try and avoid the kits. are you looking at river or reservoirs? all depends on budget for either. your tutor will hopefully be able to advise also. love both reservoirs and rivers but completely different set ups. flies are also variables. was out today on a local small water and up here we are starting to get heather flies hatching. black cdcs and beetles are good just now too.

 

[HallyButt]

Do you have a budget in mind?

 

[Overlay]

You have a PM
Cheers
Phil

 

[caorach]

It is quite tricky to answer not knowing the actual sort of fishing you are going to be doing as a starter setup for salmon might be quite different from a setup for small trout on a moorland river. In saying that it has all got very "technical" these days and that appears to be a word used by the marketing men to take money off people. I started many years ago with a 9 foot rod for a 7 weight line, as it was my only rod I used it for everything from loughs and reservoirs to dry fly on rivers. I could cast the full 30 yards of fly line with that rod. In more recent years I've gone back to my roots and now I use an 11 foot 7 weight rod for almost all of my fishing from spring salmon, to small trout in the lochs. I still prefer my old Leeda 11 foot 7 weight even though I have rods by the likes of Sage in my possession but I've also found that the Shakespeare Agility range is very decent and usable plus inexpensive - they do a 10 foot 7 weight travel rod that you could use for pretty much everything except very small streams - the technical marketing people might try to convince you that it isn't any good for most of the things you'd try to do and in some cases it might be less than perfect but that shouldn't stop you going fishing or having fun.

In terms or fly reels then they are, mostly, just a place to store your line unless you are after some seriously big fish. Lots of people like to set the drag on their reels relatively light so that their fish run for many yards as this gives them something to talk about on the internet but the fact is that with a 7 weight rod and salmon/trout up to maybe 5lb then I mostly simply don't let them take line, not more than a yard or two anyhow. So the reel doesn't do much work despite all this talk of you needing something engineered such that it costs hundreds of pounds. My advice would be to pick a reel that is on the sale and not too expensive just make sure you get sometime the correct size to hold the line you will be using. If you want to spend more money and want a really nicely engineered fly reel at relatively reasonable money then I really rate Danielsson - they ship direct in a few days and make good reels in fact they used to make the "big name, big money" reels for other people but now they just make their own and sell at a reasonable price by cutting out the marketing and the middle man: Start ENG

 

[CreedSnore]

Buy S/H as there is always good kit for sale, I would suggest going for old Hardy/Greys/Sage/Orvis rods and reels.

Dont skimp on fly lines! buy decent ones but no need to spend the crazy £80+ unless you are planning on trying competition casting!

I have used Vision waders and boots for years, very very good, I get 2-3 seasons out of mine and I am a big lump crashing around undergrowth and over fences!

Flies, well I have boxes of them but always go to the same half dozen or so for rivers and small still waters.

Dont overthink fly choice! If trout are hungry and not in fear of their lives they will eat anything that resembles food.

Enjoy! Fly fishing is even better than shooting! (as long as its warm, the rivers arent in flood and/or full of sewage and not its not windy!)

 

[Mungo]

If you’re not interested in salmon, then a 9’ 5wt rod will do everything in the UK.

There’s a Chinese knock off brand called Maxcatch that sells on eBay and Amazon - they seem to rebadge previous seasons models from the big brands and sell them on. I have two of their rods, and they’re as good as you need. Or Shakespeare do entirely effective rods for sensible money.

Reels, as said above, are just somewhere to hold line. Any will do provided they’re the right size.

Flyline - doesn’t really seem to matter if you pay £15 or £80. I currently have a 10+ year old line that is cracked and rough, but it does what I need it to. So I don’t think paying a fortune for some ultra slippy super duper line makes much difference. Though when you’re starting out, I think it helps a lot to have a very aggressively front loaded weight forward line, or get a line one size heavier than the weighting of the rod.

Leader - I have 3 spools (8lb, 6lb and 4lb fluorocarbon) from a bargain bin at a fishing shop. Again, I don’t think it really matters much.

 

[chriswjx]

If you’re not interested in salmon, then a 9’ 5wt rod will do everything in the UK.

There’s a Chinese knock off brand called Maxcatch that sells on eBay and Amazon - they seem to rebadge previous seasons models from the big brands and sell them on. I have two of their rods, and they’re as good as you need. Or Shakespeare do entirely effective rods for sensible money.

Reels, as said above, are just somewhere to hold line. Any will do provided they’re the right size.

Flyline - doesn’t really seem to matter if you pay £15 or £80. I currently have a 10+ year old line that is cracked and rough, but it does what I need it to. So I don’t think paying a fortune for some ultra slippy super duper line makes much difference. Though when you’re starting out, I think it helps a lot to have a very aggressively front loaded weight forward line, or get a line one size heavier than the weighting of the rod.

Leader - I have 3 spools (8lb, 6lb and 4lb fluorocarbon) from a bargain bin at a fishing shop. Again, I don’t think it really matters much.

Would highly recommend getting yourself a maxcatch "gold" line. not quite as "slick" compound as the Rio gold lines, but otherwise identical in profile and casting.

I would recommend the Shakespeare oracle range just because you would be able to get into a store and see/feel what you are getting - the MC stuff is good as well, but there are so many options of rod that you're liable to confound yourself.

The usual advice is a 9ft 5wt rod for river fishing, and a 10ft 7wt rod for fishing stillwaters/commercials. If you look for second hand, you probably should be able to get yourself one of each if you are still not quite committed to fishing one or the other (Caveat on the 10ft 7wt, if you are fishing very small stillwaters, you may get away with the 9ft 5wt, but you will still feel undergunned in the most part).

Leaders, you can get some decent tapered leaders (quite helpful) off amazon for not a lot of money. Put a loop in at the end of it and then attach your choice of fluorocarbon or nylon (I personally use Maxima clear or chameleon). The tapered leaders to help with your fly turnover, but they are not "essential" - I think I now actually use furled leaders on all my trout gear (not that I've been out for trout in ages, mostly stick to salmon nowadays - hence the profile picture).

Reels, agreed as above. Unless you're going to places like Sutton springs or Ledyatt, you will never realistically need a superduper drag system. Most fish you'll be catching you will end up playing them by finessing the fly line.

Buy S/H as there is always good kit for sale, I would suggest going for old Hardy/Greys/Sage/Orvis rods and reels.

Dont skimp on fly lines! buy decent ones but no need to spend the crazy £80+ unless you are planning on trying competition casting!

I have used Vision waders and boots for years, very very good, I get 2-3 seasons out of mine and I am a big lump crashing around undergrowth and over fences!

Flies, well I have boxes of them but always go to the same half dozen or so for rivers and small still waters.

Dont overthink fly choice! If trout are hungry and not in fear of their lives they will eat anything that resembles food.

Enjoy! Fly fishing is even better than shooting! (as long as its warm, the rivers arent in flood and/or full of sewage and not its not windy!)

If you do go river fishing, I would 2nd the recommendation for the Vision waders (I think the model is Koski). They're not the cheapest/entry model, but they have done me quite a while and everyone I know who has a pair says the same thing.

I would contact a chap called Dave Gordon who runs Diver Dave's Wader Repairs up in Aberdeen. He usually has a decent selection of warranty replacement waders (from a variety of brands/budgets) to chose from, and can also offer a decent discount on a new pair - he is the chap that most of the companies send their warranty returns to to get repaired. (I will say, you can read hit and miss things about him on the internet, but I personally have had very good experiences dealing with Dave)

Final bit of advice - NEVER, and I mean NEVER decide to take up fly tying in the thought that you'll "save money". Yes, it is cheaper for me to have tied up all the flies that I have in my boxes (and given away) than it would have been to buy them from a commercial tyer. But as CreedSnore said, you end up going to your auld favourites time and time again. For me, thats a Kinermony Killer for the salmon.

 

[MAH]

fly fishing for trout

Fly fishing is a bitclike golf.
A golfer has a bag full of clubs for different shots.

You've narrowed you the requirements down by focusing on Trout. But their are still alot of variables. Lake, river, stream, wind strength.
The ideal choice of line weight, and thus matching rod, will vary with the above.
If only one rod, then some compromise is required.

Right now, as a beginner, you'll not know which you prefer.

So my advice is buy good quality second hand rod real ideal suited to what you'll be doing 1st. E.g if their is a lake near you focus on lake).

If you fancy a dably in a chalk stream later on, buy one for that with the money you saved buying SH
M

 

[gelert]

I'm looking at getting into fly fishing for trout I've got lessons booked but was wondering what would be a decent starter setup something that will last and I won't need to replace later on also any other bits and bobs you recommend I'm a complete novice to fly fishing but not to carp coarse and sea fishing

If you've got lessons booked chew the instructors ear off and ask away. Try and join some local clubs, YouTube is also a valuable source of referencing for equipment, knots, leader make up etc. Bewl was the only water I recall fishing down your way, but fishing a small river is totally different to fishing a big reservoir. If you ever find yourself up this way in Wales please get in touch, we can get out on my local reservoir.

 

[Mungo]

if you are fishing very small stillwaters, you may get away with the 9ft 5wt, but you will still feel undergunned in the most part).

I disagree!

I started with a 9'6 7wt on Rutland and Grafham, and felt very over-gunned. Like fishing with a broomstick. I switched to a 5wt 15 years ago, and love it. I've never once hooked anything on a stillwater with a 5wt and felt like I needed more. Biggest fish I've ever caught on stillwater was a 6.5lb overwintered brownie at Grafham, on a 5wt.

I have even fished stillwaters with a 3wt. That was great fun, but if you're fishing C&R, not really acceptable.

I fish a lot of hill lochs in Scotland now, and would really prefer to use a 3wt, but a lot of the time, the wind is just too much for this (at least with my very mediocre casting).

 

[Pelyma]

I like your thought that you won't buy anything else! It doesn't matter what you buy now there will be more purchases in the future. Good luck with the new hobby and enjoy it.

 

[Tom270]

I too have a lesson end of the month,

 

[caorach]

I disagree!

I started with a 9'6 7wt on Rutland and Grafham, and felt very over-gunned. Like fishing with a broomstick. I switched to a 5wt 15 years ago, and love it. I've never once hooked anything on a stillwater with a 5wt and felt like I needed more. Biggest fish I've ever caught on stillwater was a 6.5lb overwintered brownie at Grafham, on a 5wt.

I have even fished stillwaters with a 3wt. That was great fun, but if you're fishing C&R, not really acceptable.

I fish a lot of hill lochs in Scotland now, and would really prefer to use a 3wt, but a lot of the time, the wind is just too much for this (at least with my very mediocre casting).

I've always been a 7 weight person and most of the reason for that is because of the wind, however I do have some 4 weight rods that occasionally get a day out and sometimes I use them for sea trout. If I'm to be honest I'd say they kill a sea trout, at least the 2 - 3lb ones we see, at least as quickly as the 7 weight.

 

[willowbank]

As I believe someone mentioned in an earlier post which is sound advice, buy a pocket sized fly case/box and don’t buy anymore flies than it will hold, there are just a few that you will use time and time again, sometimes changing the fly working through the collection until you discover what works on that day at that moment, a hatch sometimes lasts only an hour then it’s back to the favourites, my standby was always a Pheasant Tail Nymph.

Good luck and I hope you get as much pleasure as I’ve had from many years fly fishing.

Willowbank.

 

[Mungo]

I've always been a 7 weight person and most of the reason for that is because of the wind, however I do have some 4 weight rods that occasionally get a day out and sometimes I use them for sea trout. If I'm to be honest I'd say they kill a sea trout, at least the 2 - 3lb ones we see, at least as quickly as the 7 weight.

View attachment 364384

Those are cracking fish.

I would sorely love to spend a few days somewhere where there’s a reasonable expectation of catching sea trout

 

[caorach]

Those are cracking fish.

I would sorely love to spend a few days somewhere where there’s a reasonable expectation of catching sea trout

The Gress Angling Association had a pretty good year for sea trout last season (that's where the fish in the picture came from) though I don't remember exact numbers. Yearly membership is about £25. They have the river, plus the saltings so if the river is low the fish shoal up on the saltings and if the river is the right height then the fish run up and you can chase them up the river. Finding them isn't always easy of course, but that is part of the fun. Generally we fish for them in daylight, I've never known anyone here to fish at night, and with Gress the best month is probably September. There are also hundreds of trout lochs, mostly free to fish, and there are daily or yearly tickets available on a range of other rivers and systems to add variety. You can have a fortnight of salmon and sea trout fishing, with brown trout on the lochs as well, for £25. Stags, grouse, inexpensive wildfowling etc. can be added as well depending on budget. Russell Hird, pretty much the main sporting agent on the island, has a cottage for rent overlooking the Gress River and he can arrange pretty much any sport you'd want so you could take a day or two with him and take yourself to fishing the rest of the holiday to make yourself up a great mixture of sport: Welcome



This doesn't stray too far from the initial topic in the sense that it is the ideal spot for the beginner because there is huge scope to fish for salmon, sea trout, and brown trout and good fishing with a real chance of a fish is relatively inexpensive. Getting to Lewis puts off a lot of people and so you tend to mostly get very nice angling visitors plus the clubs are really super friendly and will go to considerable lengths to help visitors and beginners.

 

[devon deer stalker]

I'm too knackered tonight to contribute, been guiding a chap on the river today.
Tell us what you want, Stillwater or river?

 

[Utectok]

If you’re not interested in salmon, then a 9’ 5wt rod will do everything in the UK.

There’s a Chinese knock off brand called Maxcatch that sells on eBay and Amazon - they seem to rebadge previous seasons models from the big brands and sell them on. I have two of their rods, and they’re as good as you need. Or Shakespeare do entirely effective rods for sensible money.

Reels, as said above, are just somewhere to hold line. Any will do provided they’re the right size.

Flyline - doesn’t really seem to matter if you pay £15 or £80. I currently have a 10+ year old line that is cracked and rough, but it does what I need it to. So I don’t think paying a fortune for some ultra slippy super duper line makes much difference. Though when you’re starting out, I think it helps a lot to have a very aggressively front loaded weight forward line, or get a line one size heavier than the weighting of the rod.

Leader - I have 3 spools (8lb, 6lb and 4lb fluorocarbon) from a bargain bin at a fishing shop. Again, I don’t think it really matters much.

Personally I’d disagree with most of that honestly… I’m mean yes it will all work but you’ll probably upgrade and spend more anyway.
Get a mid range greys or starter sage rod and a decent Rio line and the best tippet material you can buy that end is the place to get the best. Stroft and seaguar are very good but I also use platil tapered leaders. Casting lessons from a professional guide is also worth it to start.
You will find it frustrating and loose fish and interest with the cheapest gear. I realise I can afford some pretty fancy gear but good tackle lasts a lifetime and 2-300£ should see you set up £500 tops

 

[Mungo]

Personally I’d disagree with most of that honestly…

There are even more disagreements in fly fishing than in stalking, about even more inconsequential variables!

Even more (much more) than in shooting, the greatest sources of variation are you and the environment.

I still have the first very cheap airflo rod I bought when I started out. I convinced myself it was useless, and spent a fortune on all sorts of others, including Sage, Guideline and Orvis.

We recently moved house, and I came across the old rod. Out of curiosity, I took it out. It was great! Turns out the rod wasn’t bad - I had just been a terrible novice caster. In the time since I’d last used it, I had improved enormously.

If I was starting again, knowing what I now know, I’d spend on getting lessons, not gear.