Zeroing issue

[GlennUK]

Dear Esteemed forum members

Wonder if you can assist.

Purchased brand new Bergara B14 HMR 24" barrel 56.5CM, Hawke Vantage 4-16 scope, 20MOA rail, Tier One Mounts.

As far as i can seem the rail is self-centring so should be 'straight' on the rifle, i adjusted the 4 screws a little at a time until all were tight.
Added the mounts making sure that they are square on the rail and screws tightened.
The scope was sitting 'square' in the mounts and again, the 8 screws were all adjusted so the brackets are even and tight.
The scope is optically centred, i have checked based on the manual from Hawke.

Using sticks at 10-12m form a zeroing target (100mm circle with diamond in the centre), i was expecting at this range to be pretty close to the diamond, adjust a small amount before moving to 50m, adjusting, then 100m adjust again.

However, i haven't hit the diamond once, shots are falling signfciantly to the right (initially outside the circle, but just inside after using all of the windage adjustment) and despite checking that the windage is optically centred twice i am somewhat at a loss to understand how i am having such issues.
Elevation is close enough for me not to worry about it given the issue with windage.

I have successfully zeroed a number of air rifles, as well as my FAX .22 at 50m, and a .17HMR at 100m.

Is there something i am missing with regards setup/adjustment that is obvious to the more experienced members?

Thanks for looking.

 

[VSS]

Incorrect parallax setting for such a close range shot?
Just a guess. Zeroing isn't my strong point.

 

[Smellydog]

Should of bore sighted it first.

 

[Smellydog]

56.5CM

What's that then?

 

[Jagged77]

Couple of things:

Looking at the rifle does everything look straight (the eye is quite good at detecting things out of alignment.

I’m not familiar with your method of zeroing. I use the following (and have done on many many rifles).
Set up on a stable bench / bipod with bag / sticks if stable enough.
Set up an a3 size target at 100 yards
Line up the bore with the target
Adjust scope crosshairs keeping everything else still and lined up
Fire a shot and fine tune

If you’re running out of adjustment then something’s out of whack. Post some pics

 

[Tim.243]

Dear Esteemed forum members

Wonder if you can assist.

Purchased brand new Bergara B14 HMR 24" barrel 56.5CM, Hawke Vantage 4-16 scope, 20MOA rail, Tier One Mounts.

As far as i can seem the rail is self-centring so should be 'straight' on the rifle, i adjusted the 4 screws a little at a time until all were tight.
Added the mounts making sure that they are square on the rail and screws tightened.
The scope was sitting 'square' in the mounts and again, the 8 screws were all adjusted so the brackets are even and tight.
The scope is optically centred, i have checked based on the manual from Hawke.

Using sticks at 10-12m form a zeroing target (100mm circle with diamond in the centre), i was expecting at this range to be pretty close to the diamond, adjust a small amount before moving to 50m, adjusting, then 100m adjust again.

However, i haven't hit the diamond once, shots are falling signfciantly to the right (initially outside the circle, but just inside after using all of the windage adjustment) and despite checking that the windage is optically centred twice i am somewhat at a loss to understand how i am having such issues.
Elevation is close enough for me not to worry about it given the issue with windage.

I have successfully zeroed a number of air rifles, as well as my FAX .22 at 50m, and a .17HMR at 100m.

Is there something i am missing with regards setup/adjustment that is obvious to the more experienced members?

Thanks for looking.

Did you bore sight it ? As most of us do.

 

[Andyquadra]

Swap the mounts front to back

 

[GlennUK]

What's that then?

a typo 6.5cm

 

[GlennUK]

Couple of things:

Looking at the rifle does everything look straight (the eye is quite good at detecting things out of alignment.

I’m not familiar with your method of zeroing. I use the following (and have done on many many rifles).
Set up on a stable bench / bipod with bag / sticks if stable enough.
Set up an a3 size target at 100 yards
Line up the bore with the target
Adjust scope crosshairs keeping everything else still and lined up
Fire a shot and fine tune

If you’re running out of adjustment then something’s out of whack. Post some pics

Thanks, no i didnt bore sight as i dont have a stable bench but did use quad sticks.

Ill post some pictures later, thanks for the thoughts

Swap the mounts front to back

Didn't think of that, the mounts have a level on them and just assumed that should go at the back.

Are mounts sometimes 'handed'? Nothing in the box to indicate this, doesn't mean there isnt a 'right way' round i guess

Thanks for the suggestion.

 

[GlennUK]

Incorrect parallax setting for such a close range shot?
Just a guess. Zeroing isn't my strong point.

Could be right, but i wold suggest that would be an elevaiotn issue instead of a windage issue. I know from my DSC 1 humane despatched shots that parallax error has to be accounted for in terms of elevation but not windage.

Thanks for the thoughts.

 

[Jagged77]

Usually the ring bolts are situated on the opposite side to the ejection port. Make sure you push them forward against the pic rail when tightening

 

[Andyquadra]

What's that then?

a cannon!

 

[Andyquadra]

Didn't think of that, the mounts have a level on them and just assumed that should go at the back.

Are mounts sometimes 'handed'? Nothing in the box to indicate this, doesn't mean there isnt a 'right way' round i guess

Thanks for the suggestion.

Pass, but its worth trying, if not front to back, just rotate 180

 

[VSS]

Could be right, but i wold suggest that would be an elevaiotn issue instead of a windage issue. I know from my DSC 1 humane despatched shots that parallax error has to be accounted for in terms of elevation but not windage.

Thanks for the thoughts.

I may well be completely wrong (I often am), but I was under the impression that a parallax error could manifest itself in any direction, depending on the position of the shooter's eye relative to the eyepiece of the scope. So basically, the parallax adjustment corrects any misalignment of the eye (ie, if you're not looking exactly down the centre of the tube) but only at the distance at which you have the parallax set.
I don't know if your scope has fixed or adjustable parallax, but if it's fixed it's unlikely to be correct at 10m range.

 

[jcampbellsmith]

Purchase some Burris Signature rings and use the inserts to align your scope. I bore sight my rifles at a mark on the garden fence and use the inserts to get the scope aligned with the same spot. Once I'm happy with the setup, I go and shoot it. Typically starting at 50 yds.
Regards
JCS

 

[User100]

What make is the rail? If it's decent, then it sounds like you'll have to take it all apart and re-check it's going on straight. Tier One rails can have screws that are too long. If it's an unknown make that came bundled with the rifle, then that could be the culprit.

As per VSS, the parallax could be a factor but it seems difficult to believe that that could account for the whole windage adjustment.

 

[Smellydog]

i dont have a stable bench

Nor do I but a pillow on a chair and a distant object gets me close or exposes an issue before I even fire a shot.

 

[GlennUK]

What make is the rail? If it's decent, then it sounds like you'll have to take it all apart and re-check it's going on straight. Tier One rails can have screws that are too long. If it's an unknown make that came bundled with the rifle, then that could be the culprit.

As per VSS, the parallax could be a factor but it seems difficult to believe that that could account for the whole windage adjustment.

Thanks ill check the brand, but it was not part of a bundle per se, i did buy all the components from the same RFD and they were keen to make sure i the mounts were good quality.

I have taken everyhitng off and re fitted, there was nothing obvious to my eye before i took it off.

 

[GlennUK]

I may well be completely wrong (I often am), but I was under the impression that a parallax error could manifest itself in any direction, depending on the position of the shooter's eye relative to the eyepiece of the scope. So basically, the parallax adjustment corrects any misalignment of the eye (ie, if you're not looking exactly down the centre of the tube) but only at the distance at which you have the parallax set

Thanks i am pretty confident about my cheek weld/head position but wil consider this when i next try.

I don't know if your scope has fixed or adjustable parallax, but if it's fixed it's unlikely to be correct at 10m range.

Re parallax its adjustable down to c.10m

 

[GlennUK]

Nor do I but a pillow on a chair and a distant object gets me close or exposes an issue before I even fire a shot.

Thanks point taken i have used a workmate before so could use that again at least for bore sighitng