Larder fridge rails and insulation

[SD198]

Hi all - I have just bought a tall larder fridge to hang roe and fallow carcasses in (one at a time) and I have a couple of questions:

1. I have seen people suggesting that it is best to have the rail on which the carcasses will hang running from the back of the fridge to the front rather than from left to right (to make it easier to get the hook over the rail etc) - if that is the best way to do it, has anyone come up with a clever set up to achieve that (ie using a normal fridge with just the normal thin supports that the shelves usually sit on)? I have seen lots of photos of the way people have done it with the rails going from left to right, but not from the back to the front

2. I have noticed in the instruction manual for the fridge that it says that it is not designed to be used outdoors or in temperatures below 10C. Mine is going in a sheltered wooden shed but the temperature I presume is likely to drop below 10C. I saw a post with someone suggesting that the solution is to wrap the fridge in a layer of loft insulation - if I have got that right, should the insulation be applied to the rear of the fridge as well as the other surfaces (as the rear of the fridge is obviously where the grill and electrics are)?

Many thanks

 

[David.evans]

mine is in the shed and is a constant 3 degrees, no insulation. Two bits of 3x2 cut to side and a stainless bar in between ror hooks , not the best photo but it works grand

 

[SD198]

Thanks - that fridge looks v similar to mine and has the same problem of the lamp/ thermostat just above the top shelf; I don't suppose you have a photo showing the top wooden part with the rail as I imagine I will have to build something very similar?

 

[David.evans]

Again sorry , bad photo I’ve stripped it out now
Easy to do tho , hope it helps
Atb

 

[wytonpjs]

 

[Essexsussex]

Again sorry , bad photo I’ve stripped it out now
Easy to do tho , hope it helps
Atb View attachment 391723

Mine is set up the same and I have the same issue with the light. I cut out around the timber for the light moulding and have remove the light itself.
The rail is further back than the thermostat - it is best position more towards the back than central anyway.

 

[slider]

Mine is in a shed, no insulation and never had a problem.
I just drilled through the sides and slotted in a bit chrome rail.
Most domestic fridges have no electric gubbins in the sides

 

[VSS]

Mine is in a shed, no insulation and never had a problem.
I just drilled through the sides and slotted in a bit chrome rail.
Most domestic fridges have no electric gubbins in the sidesView attachment 391731

Just out of curiosity, what's the reason for not splitting the chests on the carcasses?

 

[slider]

Just out of curiosity, what's the reason for not splitting the chests on the carcasses?

I do now, old photo.......

 

[nun_hunter]

I drilled two holes into the roof of the chiller and put a couple of eye bolts through with a large washer on the outside.

 

[SD198]

Thanks - the bolts through the roof or bar through the sides option would seem the most straightforward, but I have read some posts suggesting that might be bad for temp or moisture?

 

[Essexsussex]

Thanks - the bolts through the roof or bar through the sides option would seem the most straightforward, but I have read some posts suggesting that might be bad for temp or moisture?

Blocks of wood on the shelf supports saves drilling and thermal bridging but at the end of the day they will all work!!

 

[Twodogs]

I glued a castor cup, the sort you put under furniture legs/feet, having cut a slot in the top of one, to each side then placed bar in these.

 

[SD198]

I glued a castor cup, the sort you put under furniture legs/feet, having cut a slot in the top of one, to each side then placed bar in these.

That certainly sounds like the most straightforward solution I have heard so far- what sort of glue did you use and have you had heavy deer on it ok?

 

[Twodogs]

PM inbound

 

[Freeforester]

 

[Essexsussex]

That certainly sounds like the most straightforward solution I have heard so far- what sort of glue did you use and have you had heavy deer on it ok?

The wooden blocks with a cup cut out do the same thing - glued mine with silicon adhesive but relies on the shelf supports as well as the glue.

 

[SD198]

Yes, I can see that having the wood to support the cups would be a good idea (as my shelf is not high enough to have the cups simply sat on it). Thanks

 

[nun_hunter]

Thanks - the bolts through the roof or bar through the sides option would seem the most straightforward, but I have read some posts suggesting that might be bad for temp or moisture?

I've had a Govee temp and humidity sensor in mine while running and it's very consistent. Temp drops to 2⁰C and remains within 0.5 of a degree with humidity dropping as the carcass dries and cools then only spiking when the door is opened.

One major benefit is you can place the bolts exactly where you want to make the carcass hang in the best location and you don't lose any height by hanging a bar 4" under the roof of the chiller.