Have any of you swapped your German scope for Day/Night scopes? (HIK Micro Alpex)

[FISH BOY]

Very good idea.
I was thinking of using this on multiple rifles.
CS .22lr, Tikka T1X 17HMR, Tikka 595 .22-250 and maybe on my MAUSER M12 MAX in .243. The Rimes have standard sports match mounts, my my Tikka 595 has optilock rings and bases and my MAUSER M12 MAX has some fancy swing off you the when I bought eh entire set up brand new from RJ Blackwall several years ago. I hate the look or a Picatinny rail and the way it blocks the top of the chamber. What's your thoughts to get a universal set up?

Don’t mind a rail, functional and gives a bit of elevation.

I have three deer calibre M12s with picatinny rails - sadly no two rails are the same, resulting in scopes being dedicated for each rifle.

I believe there is an Innomount that can be used on any rail making it totally interchangeable - think it’s called the Innomount Zero. Never considered one personally as I’m too much of a technophobe - can’t be dealing with multiple zero profiles.

 

[Blaser243]

I've moved to a thermal scope (Nocpix Ace), and it is revolutionary. I've shot many more fallow at last light than I would have done with my old top-end glass. I would still have been able to shoot 1 deer in many instances, but not a 2nd or 3rd one out of the group. If you are culling for numbers, then it will make a huge difference.

I also have an Alpex 4x. It's good in image terms at last light compared to glass, but not a patch on the thermal that doesn't care what visible light there is. Every time you get a bright bright image of the quarry. This is both quicker in terms of target acquisition (again, for culling, a great boon) but also for safety. I can more easily see if there is a second deer hidden behind the one I'm aiming at.

Where they fall down is sex identification. If this matters to you (i.e. you're focussed on females because of management plans or law) then you need to take a moment longer to identify the pizzle or antlers - but the thermal really can spot such differences at sensible ranges (under 200m easily, perhaps further, haven't tried).

The Alpex is more cheaply built (I would say the same about all Hik products - I'm just not convinced they will last). The menus and other UI features are also a bit irritating in my view - just not as intuitive as the Nocpix. The screen is also far clearer. Having tried both in wet/foggy conditions, the Alpex fails first by a long margin. If you regualrly work in damp places, then I would readily err on the side of thermal, although that too will still be compromised to an extent. The Alpex also sometimes goes a bit wild on the focus side of things - although more so at night with IR. Sometimes it takes a moment to catch up with itself, which could be a lost opportunity. Never had that problem with the thermal.

The auto-record feature on both is brilliant too. Provided it works (sometimes the Nocpix doesn't pick up on recoil on my rifle because its pretty mild), then you can easily check back and confirm the real point of impact, if an animal runs into cover and you have any doubts as to whether it was a good shot or not.

Finally, you can watch both through the live viewfinder on your phone. If you're out with clients or a trainee, it could be eye-opening.

 

[25 Sharps]

I sold my expensive binos and my expensive scope. I use a C50 and have 2 off 4k Alpex, and a DNT. The C50 will get replaced at some point as it is about 5 years old,
The digital have a ballistic chart. Which I still have to test, but when working will be helpful.
It also has a range finder.
It has a record function, so I can check and review if the shot was good or bad, so I can, hopefully, improve.
It is also better at first and last light, far more that my expensive scope ever was.

If I want to go foxing after, I just need to add an illuminator. Don’t need to attach front or rear addons.

The downside,
The image is not a good as glass. It has got a lot better over the last few years, but still a long way away. When you zoom in.
I cannot imagine I will still be using that scope in 10 years time. But, the cost out is still 3 or 4 digital scopes to 1 expensive German scope.
Have both thermal and nightvision. I still prefer night vision for shooting and thermal for spotting.

However, imho, in the next 3/4 years, company’s will be selling high end thermal and nightvision scopes. The Arken zulus/DNT is just the start of a major shift in the industry. They have some issues to overcome, but, it is coming.

Does that mean you point your rifle it for at every deer you want to ID wear you’d usually use binoculars?

 

[sauer]

You can't best a good glass sight picture..... nothing better than an evening on rabbits at range with the hornet

But soo many of us do night or dusk work

Also who wants to load develop with a digital sight picture ..? Not me .
..
Now that in kockistan we can hunt deer with such devices legally .... I put the zulu on the .223 T3 and for a walk about roe fox crow rifle it's hard to beat in a package!

Japanese glass and the big Austrian glass firms ...the gap isn't as big as used to be so can get good glass in mid range price and a day night digital scope....bang em into QR mounts and have best of both worlds

 

[bowji john]

Did it today

Swapping a S & B 4-16 for an Arken Zulus

The Zulus has its uses, but isn’t in the same (daylight) league as a good optical scope

It’s a useful toy against a useful tool

 

[The Singing Stalker]

Does that mean you point your rifle it for at every deer you want to ID wear you’d usually use binoculars?

Nope. Currently using a thermal and cheap binos, because as we all know, best practice says, don’t be naughty using your rifle to spot. And it is a pain in the ass.
I am planning to replace my expensive binos with the Hik habrok 50mm as an when the money allows, or something similar, as I am sure all the other manufacturers are all rushing to produce their own version and get in on the action.

To expand on the theme. I bought a set of 4k habrooks with the 25 mm lens. For deer stalking, they are brilliant, i looked at a muntjac in a hedge and could see it perfectly in the binos and the expensive German scope just showed a dull indistinct shape however, I found the thermal not good enough (for me) for foxing. Hence, looking for the more expensive version with higher end thermal.
I also think the IR isn’t a good as it could be on the binos, but that is another story.

 

[25 Sharps]

Nope. Currently using a thermal and cheap binos, because as we all know, best practice says, don’t be naughty using your rifle to spot. And it is a pain in the ass.
I am planning to replace my expensive binos with the Hik habrok 50mm as an when the money allows, or something similar, as I am sure all the other manufacturers are all rushing to produce their own version and get in on the action.

To expand on the theme. I bought a set of 4k habrooks with the 25 mm lens. For deer stalking, they are brilliant, i looked at a muntjac in a hedge and could see it perfectly in the binos and the expensive German scope just showed a dull indistinct shape however, I found the thermal not good enough (for me) for foxing. Hence, looking for the more expensive version with higher end thermal.
I also think the IR isn’t a good as it could be on the binos, but that is another story.

Ah, ok, you didn’t mention the cheap bino’s in the replacements in the previous post, so it sounded like you’d ditched binos altogether.

 

[25 Sharps]

Does that mean you point your rifle it for at every deer you want to ID wear you’d usually use binoculars?

I really should proof read before posting!

*point your rifle at

**where

 

[Utectok]

I’ve just bought a hik to stick on a spare rifle that I couldn’t sell for decent money. My thoughts are it’s a nice unit and will allow me to shoot foxes and extend my deer shooting to cover the one hour before sunrise and one hour after dusk. Also to bag the odd boar?! But it’s not anything like as nice as good glass and a ball ache to check if it’s charged and so forth…. I’d never have it as my only option as it’s simply not as nice to shoot. Handy to have on the odd occasion but not the first out of the cabinet

 

[Brittany boy]

I had a doctor 3x12x56 on the 22-250 for deer and fox. Coming into the lambing season I decided to put the Alpex T50 mk 1 on instead. I went out a couple of days ago for a deer , shot two roe but didn’t enjoy the experience as much as the glass too much faffing with the Alpex so when I got home I put the doctor back on and the Alpex on the 22 hornet for night foxing. I’m not under any pressure to control the deer on my permissions but need to control the foxes hard in the coming months. I use hand held thermal to spot day and night, suppose it’s what’s best for the individuals needs.

 

[Dickie]

Is this only German scopes will my tasco and Nikko still be ok?

 

[Rake Aboot]

I’ve moved to a stellar sq50 on my rimfire and just built a 223 with an alpex

I’m losing some vision in my right eye and thermal was an utter game changer for me, so much so that I’m going all in on electronic sights.

First shot fired with the alpex was a 206 mtr doe. Impressed ? I should cocoa.

I’ve a S&B on a 243 which I’m keeping at present as it’s mainly for daytime woodland stuff.

 

[Keith Edmunds]

Off came the Schmidt and Bender 8x56 and on went the Alpex 4k (non LRF). That's only on one of my outfits (.308) but on that set up alone, in last 10 months, I've shot 8 deer that I wouldn't have had a chance with glass.....and probably another 8 that would have been borderline on glass and as easy as pie with the Alpex.

For daytime, woodland stalking, quality glass is superior and that's what I still use.
For dawn and dusk high seat - Good quality digital day night hands down every time.

 

[Bo Diddley]

Another option which I have also gone with is a good mid range glass scope (Delta Titanium HD) that performs almost as well as the top end European scopes but it also works very well with a rear add on. I have the Sytong HT66 which means I can use nice glass in the day and when that starts to let me down I can add the NV and continue shooting even in pitch black. This is by far the cheapest option.

#metoo ^^^^ The easy solution and cheapest solution.
The Delta is excellent for day use/zeroing, fairly cheap to purchase for a decent mid price scope, and click on a 007 or HT66 to turn darkness into daylight.
I use this option because I can't be doing with loss of zero issues, I had this nightmare with a Pulsar Digisight and it fried my brain.....

 

[12borejimbo]

so I solved my problem by buying a Zeiss DTC thermal (when legal) to go on the front of my V8.

but interestingly I was thinking about buying a newer set of EL ranges and bought a set of HIK habrok HE25's instead.

I have a set of Kahles 10x42 RF binos which are superb. But I am thinking of selling my Pulsar XQ38 spotter, and the Kahles binos and getting a set of RF thermal binoculars for a one stop solution.

 

[12borejimbo]

Off came the Schmidt and Bender 8x56 and on went the Alpex 4k (non LRF). That's only on one of my outfits (.308) but on that set up alone, in last 10 months, I've shot 8 deer that I wouldn't have had a chance with glass.....and probably another 8 that would have been borderline on glass and as easy as pie with the Alpex.

For daytime, woodland stalking, quality glass is superior and that's what I still use.
For dawn and dusk high seat - Good quality digital day night hands down every time.

That's what I do, first light in mornings and last light in evenings for the chance of deer and fox on our Estate. I love a morning stalking then the German scope comes into its own, however in evenings the Digital scope would be much more useful.

 

[12borejimbo]

I've moved to a thermal scope (Nocpix Ace), and it is revolutionary. I've shot many more fallow at last light than I would have done with my old top-end glass. I would still have been able to shoot 1 deer in many instances, but not a 2nd or 3rd one out of the group. If you are culling for numbers, then it will make a huge difference.

I also have an Alpex 4x. It's good in image terms at last light compared to glass, but not a patch on the thermal that doesn't care what visible light there is. Every time you get a bright bright image of the quarry. This is both quicker in terms of target acquisition (again, for culling, a great boon) but also for safety. I can more easily see if there is a second deer hidden behind the one I'm aiming at.

Where they fall down is sex identification. If this matters to you (i.e. you're focussed on females because of management plans or law) then you need to take a moment longer to identify the pizzle or antlers - but the thermal really can spot such differences at sensible ranges (under 200m easily, perhaps further, haven't tried).

The Alpex is more cheaply built (I would say the same about all Hik products - I'm just not convinced they will last). The menus and other UI features are also a bit irritating in my view - just not as intuitive as the Nocpix. The screen is also far clearer. Having tried both in wet/foggy conditions, the Alpex fails first by a long margin. If you regualrly work in damp places, then I would readily err on the side of thermal, although that too will still be compromised to an extent. The Alpex also sometimes goes a bit wild on the focus side of things - although more so at night with IR. Sometimes it takes a moment to catch up with itself, which could be a lost opportunity. Never had that problem with the thermal.

The auto-record feature on both is brilliant too. Provided it works (sometimes the Nocpix doesn't pick up on recoil on my rifle because its pretty mild), then you can easily check back and confirm the real point of impact, if an animal runs into cover and you have any doubts as to whether it was a good shot or not.

Finally, you can watch both through the live viewfinder on your phone. If you're out with clients or a trainee, it could be eye-opening.

I have been looking at the Nocpix ace H50. Looks really good to be honest.
Did you go for the in built RF model or without?
I want one with the RF as its nice to have, however at night you can easily get onto a fox at 200m or so and with a .22-250 its flat at that range too. Be interested to hear.

 

[Blaser243]

I have been looking at the Nocpix ace H50. Looks really good to be honest.
Did you go for the in built RF model or without?
I want one with the RF as its nice to have, however at night you can easily get onto a fox at 200m or so and with a .22-250 its flat at that range too. Be interested to hear.

With RF. Much of my shooting is last light after fallow. When you have the luxury of time on the first one, its easy to estimate range. When the second and the third present shots just as they turn back to look where their mates are as they go back into the wood, its less easy. Set it to continuous and it just gives you the confidence that you do or don't need to adjust your aim point. The built in ballistic calc seems to work fine - although I don't shoot extended ranges very often and haven't had cause to rely on it yet.

I didn't mention that the optical zoom is really quite good too. I'm playing around with using the PIP function because you can see the shot placement easy at 8x mag in the PIP, but see where the rest of the group has gone in the wider 3x main display. The alternative is to wind the mag in and out on either the digital or the optical, and it does make a difference to pixelation to use the optical.

 

[slider]

I use both a Zeiss V4 and a Pulsar C50. Initially swapped them over but then purchase a second .270 for the Pulsar. I tend to use the Browning with the Zeiss during the longer daylight periods because the scop is much lighter.
Tikka with the Pulsar during short daylight hours to expand my shooting time (I have night authorization on 2 of my permissions). The Pulsar is a heavy lump, more so when I have the Sirius IR attached

 

[slider]

so I solved my problem by buying a Zeiss DTC thermal (when legal) to go on the front of my V8.

but interestingly I was thinking about buying a newer set of EL ranges and bought a set of HIK habrok HE25's instead.

The Habrok's are a game changer!