Pard 30mm tube variances

[waggy 1]

How many people have found that the rear tube section on the pard ds35 scope’s is a larger diameter than the front section??my friend has also found this on a new night stalker model, finding this hard to accept that quality control doesn’t seem to exist at Pard!!!

 

[scotch_egg]

I will check my night stalker.

 

[Ratsbadboy]

How many people have found that the rear tube section on the pard ds35 scope’s is a larger diameter than the front section??my friend has also found this on a new night stalker model, finding this hard to accept that quality control doesn’t seem to exist at Pard!!!

I've got 5 Pard DS35-70's and every one of them has the rear tube larger than the front. It's a know issue.

 

[kenbro]

I've got 5 Pard DS35-70's and every one of them has the rear tube larger than the front. It's a know issue.

Is there enough difference to need different rings sizes?
KB.

 

[scotch_egg]

I've got 5 Pard DS35-70's and every one of them has the rear tube larger than the front. It's a know issue.

Not had chance to measure mine but I can’t actually zero it at 100m. I thought it was the 20moa rail. But the ds35 I had previously zeroed perfectly. Could be due to the tube size difference?

 

[Ratsbadboy]

Is there enough difference to need different rings sizes?
KB.

No, but depending on how true the rings are to 30mm you may need to gently open them up a bit. On all my DS35's the front mount fitted perfectly, but the scope just wouldn't sit comfortably in the rear mount and, if pushed in, it became near impossible to rotate it. I possibly could have tighten the top cap, but it just felt wrong and rather than risk damaging the scope I opted to use a 30mm bar wrapped in thin emery paper to remove some material from the inside the ring. This method only removed material from the upper lips of the mount, but that was enough to allow the scope to sit all the way down and able to be rotated.

 

[Ratsbadboy]

Not had chance to measure mine but I can’t actually zero it at 100m. I thought it was the 20moa rail. But the ds35 I had previously zeroed perfectly. Could be due to the tube size difference?

Providing the scope actually bottomed in both front and rear mounts I wouldn't have though the tube difference would cause a zeroing issue. Three of my DS35's are fitted to Tikka T3x's (.223, .243 and .308) and they all zeroed up just fine albeit at further distances then 100m (.223 at 180y, .243 at 200y and .308 at 155y).

 

[kenbro]

No, but depending on how true the rings are to 30mm you may need to gently open them up a bit. On all my DS35's the front mount fitted perfectly, but the scope just wouldn't sit comfortably in the rear mount and, if pushed in, it became near impossible to rotate it. I possibly could have tighten the top cap, but it just felt wrong and rather than risk damaging the scope I opted to use a 30mm bar wrapped in thin emery paper to remove some material from the inside the ring. This method only removed material from the upper lips of the mount, but that was enough to allow the scope to sit all the way down and able to be rotated.

Nicely done, thanks, Ken.

 

[waggy 1]

No, but depending on how true the rings are to 30mm you may need to gently open them up a bit. On all my DS35's the front mount fitted perfectly, but the scope just wouldn't sit comfortably in the rear mount and, if pushed in, it became near impossible to rotate it. I possibly could have tighten the top cap, but it just felt wrong and rather than risk damaging the scope I opted to use a 30mm bar wrapped in thin emery paper to remove some material from the inside the ring. This method only removed material from the upper lips of the mount, but that was enough to allow the scope to sit all the way down and able to be rotated.

That’s a solution I have to agree, but why do pard keep sending out scopes like that? My first one was perfect front and rear it’s sounds pretty common if you have multiple ones like it, I bet it doesn’t mention how to fit it into the rings in the manual