What brass is worth holding onto?

ahenry34

Well-Known Member
Hey guys

I shoot quite alot of factory ammo in .308 and 6.5cm

308 is always Norma whitetail
6.5cm is always sellier-bellot

The last few trips to the range I’ve shot c.100 rnds of each and collected the brass.

Now starting to gather a bit of stock

If this worth keeping for myself to hand load or resale?
 
when you have your 30+ post you could sell what you dont want to reload on the forum, norma will be more sort after than the s+b but may still be of interest to some one. being a seller in ireland will make some shy away from the sale but royal mail bring and take from england and ireland so its not an issue
 
when you have your 30+ post you could sell what you dont want to reload on the forum, norma will be more sort after than the s+b but may still be of interest to some one. being a seller in ireland will make some shy away from the sale but royal mail bring and take from england and ireland so its not an issue
Amazing thanks for the advice
 
Depends on whether you reload or not. Reloading kit is a capex cost, but generally has good resale value. Then its powder, primers and bullets.

Norma should give you 10 or so reloads per case

S&B a bit less.

Norma has a reputation for better quality and less variability from case to case. But you pay for it. S&B is cheaper with less stringent quality control.

Most of us probably wouldn’t notice the difference in normal hunting or plinking type ammo. A serious competition shooter will notice the difference between one batch of brass to another and how many reloads it has had.

Some will happily use brass shot in another rifle, bought off the internet with no clue has many loads “once fired” brass actually has had through it. Others will only ever use brass either bought as new “virgin brass” or as new cartridges fired in their own rifles.
 
Depends on whether you reload or not. Reloading kit is a capex cost, but generally has good resale value. Then its powder, primers and bullets.

Norma should give you 10 or so reloads per case

S&B a bit less.

Norma has a reputation for better quality and less variability from case to case. But you pay for it. S&B is cheaper with less stringent quality control.

Most of us probably wouldn’t notice the difference in normal hunting or plinking type ammo. A serious competition shooter will notice the difference between one batch of brass to another and how many reloads it has had.

Some will happily use brass shot in another rifle, bought off the internet with no clue has many loads “once fired” brass actually has had through it. Others will only ever use brass either bought as new “virgin brass” or as new cartridges fired in their own rifles.
Thank you Heym SR20
 
S&B is decent, however it does need annealing every time.

I reloaded about 6 times before passing them on to a buddy and buying Hornady
 
Hey guys

I shoot quite alot of factory ammo in .308 and 6.5cm

308 is always Norma whitetail
6.5cm is always sellier-bellot

The last few trips to the range I’ve shot c.100 rnds of each and collected the brass.

Now starting to gather a bit of stock

If this worth keeping for myself to hand load or resale?
The more obscure the calibre the greater the desirability of the brass cases to those that shoot that cartridge. OTOH the more widely used the calibre the deeper the "pool" of people who might want to buy it. Six of one and half a dozen of the other. You will always, regardless of calibre, find a market for Norma brass. Less so for Sellier & Bellot brass.
 
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thank you for all your responses

Having now sorted it all into brands it visibly clear to see how you are assigning these values

When I make the leap to reloading I will have a great stock of brass to get started with
 
Norma's additional cost is largely due to the projectiles. My experience with Norma v S&B brass is largely based on 22 savage and, to a lesser extent, on 308 win.
In both cases variability of the cases was identical ie weight of the unprimed brass, volumetric capacity in grains of water and overall length.
I had the opportunity to buy some norma brass for the 22 savage which is as rare as rocking horse crap and the cost was just £25 less per hundred for unprimed brass than for a 100 loaded S&B cartridges and the rrp of those was £240.
I bought the S&B cartridges and found the following, loading 10 cases repeatedly, I had 10 WW 22 savage Super X from the 1940s,11 Norma 5.6x52R from the last century and 10 S&B from this year.
To equalise matters I annealed all the brass and the WW and S&B have now been loaded 7 times, the Norma cases have been loaded 8 times. They all seem to have stretched equally.
I weighed a few samples of each,WW were the heaviest by about 1.5 grains, S&B and Norma were all within 0.5 grains of each other, Same with water capacity in grains with a 70 Hornady 0.227 bullet seated at the published COAL WW about 33.2 grains of water up to the primer hole, S&B and Norma 34.7 Grains water ditto.
The only thing that surprised me was the winchester brass lasted as long as it has, in my 30/30 and 308 it lags behind Federal and S&B my two principal case brands where federal is up to nearly 20 reloads, admittedly reduced power with cast boolits S&B not far behind if only because I started a good few years earlier with federal. Anyways, I've had 3 or 4 case neck splits with the winchester but none so far with the other two.
So my bet is the brass isn't worth fighting over, it being six of one and half a dozen of the other. Bullet wise, Norma isn't your budget friendly brand whereas S&B is and the reason is that probably S&B outproduces Norma by many times as it's a principal source of military ammo like PPU and,to a lesser extent, Lapua.
In the images below the left hand 3 are 22 savage cases, central 2 are S&B 5.6x52R cases and the remainder are norma, 5.6x52R. The die is a redding 22 savage trim die which I use to trim, funnily enough.
FWIW, and it's my opinion only, the only difference I can see between 22 savage and 5.6x52R is the very slight relief in front of the rim to enable the cartridges to function in break barrel guns with ejectors. Long ago I had a double rifle in 300 H&H rimmed and I can't remember that relief on those cases, but it was nearly 60 years ago and I only ever had factory loads so didn't perhaps pay as much attention as I do for reloading.
22 sav variety.webp22 sav 3.webp
 
Norma's additional cost is largely due to the projectiles. My experience with Norma v S&B brass is largely based on 22 savage and, to a lesser extent, on 308 win.
In both cases variability of the cases was identical ie weight of the unprimed brass, volumetric capacity in grains of water and overall length.
I had the opportunity to buy some norma brass for the 22 savage which is as rare as rocking horse crap and the cost was just £25 less per hundred for unprimed brass than for a 100 loaded S&B cartridges and the rrp of those was £240.
I bought the S&B cartridges and found the following, loading 10 cases repeatedly, I had 10 WW 22 savage Super X from the 1940s,11 Norma 5.6x52R from the last century and 10 S&B from this year.
To equalise matters I annealed all the brass and the WW and S&B have now been loaded 7 times, the Norma cases have been loaded 8 times. They all seem to have stretched equally.
I weighed a few samples of each,WW were the heaviest by about 1.5 grains, S&B and Norma were all within 0.5 grains of each other, Same with water capacity in grains with a 70 Hornady 0.227 bullet seated at the published COAL WW about 33.2 grains of water up to the primer hole, S&B and Norma 34.7 Grains water ditto.
The only thing that surprised me was the winchester brass lasted as long as it has, in my 30/30 and 308 it lags behind Federal and S&B my two principal case brands where federal is up to nearly 20 reloads, admittedly reduced power with cast boolits S&B not far behind if only because I started a good few years earlier with federal. Anyways, I've had 3 or 4 case neck splits with the winchester but none so far with the other two.
So my bet is the brass isn't worth fighting over, it being six of one and half a dozen of the other. Bullet wise, Norma isn't your budget friendly brand whereas S&B is and the reason is that probably S&B outproduces Norma by many times as it's a principal source of military ammo like PPU and,to a lesser extent, Lapua.
In the images below the left hand 3 are 22 savage cases, central 2 are S&B 5.6x52R cases and the remainder are norma, 5.6x52R. The die is a redding 22 savage trim die which I use to trim, funnily enough.
FWIW, and it's my opinion only, the only difference I can see between 22 savage and 5.6x52R is the very slight relief in front of the rim to enable the cartridges to function in break barrel guns with ejectors. Long ago I had a double rifle in 300 H&H rimmed and I can't remember that relief on those cases, but it was nearly 60 years ago and I only ever had factory loads so didn't perhaps pay as much attention as I do for reloading.
View attachment 430663View attachment 430664
@drone thank you for all the detail. Now looking into some of the reloading kit

Will make the capital expenditure before the dark nights come in
 
Norma's additional cost is largely due to the projectiles. My experience with Norma v S&B brass is largely based on 22 savage and, to a lesser extent, on 308 win.
In both cases variability of the cases was identical ie weight of the unprimed brass, volumetric capacity in grains of water and overall length.
I had the opportunity to buy some norma brass for the 22 savage which is as rare as rocking horse crap and the cost was just £25 less per hundred for unprimed brass than for a 100 loaded S&B cartridges and the rrp of those was £240.
I bought the S&B cartridges and found the following, loading 10 cases repeatedly, I had 10 WW 22 savage Super X from the 1940s,11 Norma 5.6x52R from the last century and 10 S&B from this year.
To equalise matters I annealed all the brass and the WW and S&B have now been loaded 7 times, the Norma cases have been loaded 8 times. They all seem to have stretched equally.
I weighed a few samples of each,WW were the heaviest by about 1.5 grains, S&B and Norma were all within 0.5 grains of each other, Same with water capacity in grains with a 70 Hornady 0.227 bullet seated at the published COAL WW about 33.2 grains of water up to the primer hole, S&B and Norma 34.7 Grains water ditto.
The only thing that surprised me was the winchester brass lasted as long as it has, in my 30/30 and 308 it lags behind Federal and S&B my two principal case brands where federal is up to nearly 20 reloads, admittedly reduced power with cast boolits S&B not far behind if only because I started a good few years earlier with federal. Anyways, I've had 3 or 4 case neck splits with the winchester but none so far with the other two.
So my bet is the brass isn't worth fighting over, it being six of one and half a dozen of the other. Bullet wise, Norma isn't your budget friendly brand whereas S&B is and the reason is that probably S&B outproduces Norma by many times as it's a principal source of military ammo like PPU and,to a lesser extent, Lapua.
In the images below the left hand 3 are 22 savage cases, central 2 are S&B 5.6x52R cases and the remainder are norma, 5.6x52R. The die is a redding 22 savage trim die which I use to trim, funnily enough.
FWIW, and it's my opinion only, the only difference I can see between 22 savage and 5.6x52R is the very slight relief in front of the rim to enable the cartridges to function in break barrel guns with ejectors. Long ago I had a double rifle in 300 H&H rimmed and I can't remember that relief on those cases, but it was nearly 60 years ago and I only ever had factory loads so didn't perhaps pay as much attention as I do for reloading.
View attachment 430663View attachment 430664
Why aren't you just forming cases from 30-30 brass? Though pricey, the forming die does exist...

Redding Case Forming Die 5.6x52mm Rimmed (22 Savage High-Power) from
 
I have the dies and have formed about 200 cases but tbh I'm happier with originals as more often than not the neck needs reaming. Besides I get to shoot factory ammo and I've kinda forgotten what that's like. In reality it does suck a bit ie it's not as good as home cooked.
As a matter of interest, I bought 400 S&B bullets and all samples miked 0.225", the S&B bullets I pulled from two factory loads - out of curiosity - miked at 0.2273" ish.
FWIW I have actually put several coats of powder coat on the loose S&B bullets to increase their diameter and they now don't keyhole.
powder coating 2255.webp
 
I have the dies and have formed about 200 cases but tbh I'm happier with originals as more often than not the neck needs reaming. Besides I get to shoot factory ammo and I've kinda forgotten what that's like. In reality it does suck a bit ie it's not as good as home cooked.
As a matter of interest, I bought 400 S&B bullets and all samples miked 0.225", the S&B bullets I pulled from two factory loads - out of curiosity - miked at 0.2273" ish.
FWIW I have actually put several coats of powder coat on the loose S&B bullets to increase their diameter and they now don't keyhole.
View attachment 431108
Swedish Copper Bear makes a 63gr copper .228 bullet for the Savage
 
I have 400 hornady factory0.227 bullets, many hundreds of S&B ones that it's a cinch to powder coat and I'm 81 next weekend. I got enough I think :-|.
 
I have 400 hornady factory0.227 bullets, many hundreds of S&B ones that it's a cinch to powder coat and I'm 81 next weekend. I got enough I think :-|.

Out of interest, what powder coat are you using? All references ive read to powder coat all seems to be American and use some stuff that doesnt seem to exist this side of the pond
 
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