Ruger 10/22 problems

I started reading Guns and Ammo in 1970 and from then on understood "plinking" to mean the American equivalent of our shooting tin cans, in the garden, with an air rifle- only difference being they used .22lr. Therefore fun shooting at a max of 25 yards is - to me- what the 10/22 is about, and to expect 70 yard pinpoint accuracy is misunderstanding the point of the rifle and the ammunition. - Muir could you shed light on how popular .22 sub sonic is because I believe HV is the normal ammo for the 10/22 ? Yes you can get accuracy at 50+ yards but there is no guarantee so remember that experimenting with commercial ammunition may give you good results. My rifles are tools. 3ish years ago I had 2 large warrens to clear. The terms/conditions given were, minimum noise, when the children were asleep and to be done quickly. I had an HMR so varied my FAC and bought a second hand 10/22. No barrel band just a long wood stock- s/n shows it manufactured in 1982 Moderated and with a 4x40 scope I shot out to 40 yards and cleared the warrens. It now wears an ATI stock and red dot sight (as well as the 4x40) and has become favourite for "light hearted" range work where it has recently "plinked" far more targets than shot rabbits, but it still gets taken out for the odd orchard walk- and only yesterday took a bunny at 40 paces. I like my rifle but have no illusions - nor had at time of purchase - about what it was produced for.
I sort of agree with the above post, but would be seriously disappointed if 40 yards was the best it could do. It's true that they are not tack drivers, but they are accurate enough for rabbiting. If target shooting why would you buy a semi auto, a bolt action will always be superior to a semi auto when it comes to accuracy.
 
I started reading Guns and Ammo in 1970 and from then on understood "plinking" to mean the American equivalent of our shooting tin cans, in the garden, with an air rifle- only difference being they used .22lr. Yes our American cousins are a little different from us a few years ago I had an American client for stags, he chose to take advantage of the estate rifle clause, my local police required a reference from his local police chief pertaining to his good character, before issuing a UK visitors permit allowing him to bring his rifle into the country. For reasons best known to himself he chose not to do so, but to use the estate rifle. On the first morning we went to the target before going to the hill in search of a stag I produced the rifle explaining the operation of the safety catch, in case he was not familiar with that types operation. What calibre is it he asked? .243 I replied! WHAT he exclaimed my twelve year old son has one of those for shooting squirrels in the back yard.
 
I sort of agree with the above post, but would be seriously disappointed if 40 yards was the best it could do.

The 40 yards was the range for the warrens I shot so it suited the job at that time and with the requirement to take multiple rabbits a self loader fitted well:-D

Since then I have taken quite a few at 60 but wouldn't bother at longer ranges

If target shooting why would you buy a semi auto, a bolt action will always be superior to a semi auto when it comes to accuracy.


Absolutely! and that is why I've got a CZ b/a for over 60 yards:)
 
Shot my new (to me) deluxe 10/22 £220 with scope and mod. 1/4inch groups at 25yds. With mod it still groups though an inch lower. Subsonics no change to the latter position. It's a keeper for LSR competition, bunny bashing and running boar practice. 100 rounds through, no jams.

Oh and it's not free floated. Given how it's shooting I'd be loathe to mess with it. For more accuracy I'd add a bolt action to the stable.

Trigger isn't terrible, but a better one is on the list.
 
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I started reading Guns and Ammo in 1970 and from then on understood "plinking" to mean the American equivalent of our shooting tin cans, in the garden, with an air rifle- only difference being they used .22lr.

Therefore fun shooting at a max of 25 yards is - to me- what the 10/22 is about, and to expect 70 yard pinpoint accuracy is misunderstanding the point of the rifle and the ammunition. - Muir could you shed light on how popular .22 sub sonic is because I believe HV is the normal ammo for the 10/22 ?

Yes you can get accuracy at 50+ yards but there is no guarantee so remember that experimenting with commercial ammunition may give you good results.

My rifles are tools.
3ish years ago I had 2 large warrens to clear.
The terms/conditions given were, minimum noise, when the children were asleep and to be done quickly.
I had an HMR so varied my FAC and bought a second hand 10/22.
No barrel band just a long wood stock- s/n shows it manufactured in 1982
Moderated and with a 4x40 scope I shot out to 40 yards and cleared the warrens.

It now wears an ATI stock and red dot sight (as well as the 4x40) and has become favourite for "light hearted" range work where it has recently "plinked" far more targets than shot rabbits, but it still gets taken out for the odd orchard walk- and only yesterday took a bunny at 40 paces.

I like my rifle but have no illusions - nor had at time of purchase - about what it was produced for.

Sub Sonic is considered a 'specialty' round here for 22LR and the 10/22 was not developed around it. It was designed for the standard high velocity round of 40 grains at around 1250 fps. Some subs cycle the 10/22 action but I have at least one 10/22 that just doesn't work with it. The cycling of the action is not consistent so the accuracy is bad as well. I have a highly modified 10/22 that will cycle subs perfectly and shoots 10 shot groups under .5" at 50 M with most brands. That said, When I want to shoot subs I usually grab one of my Brno bolt guns.

That rifle you have is one of the "Deluxe" models. I have three of them and those rifles have always shot well. JAYB keeps a 10/22 "Rifle" model at my house for his visits. No barrel band and a long barrel It drives tacks and did right from the box. All we did was to adjust the sear angles a bit on the trigger.~Muir
 
Sub Sonic is considered a 'specialty' round here for 22LR and the 10/22 was not developed around it. It was designed for the standard high velocity round of 40 grains at around 1250 fps. Some subs cycle the 10/22 action but I have at least one 10/22 that just doesn't work with it. The cycling of the action is not consistent so the accuracy is bad as well. I have a highly modified 10/22 that will cycle subs perfectly and shoots 10 shot groups under .5" at 50 M with most brands. That said, When I want to shoot subs I usually grab one of my Brno bolt guns.

That rifle you have is one of the "Deluxe" models. I have three of them and those rifles have always shot well. JAYB keeps a 10/22 "Rifle" model at my house for his visits. No barrel band and a long barrel It drives tacks and did right from the box. All we did was to adjust the sear angles a bit on the trigger.~Muir

As always, your replies contain a wealth of information .
Thank you
 
As always, your replies contain a wealth of information .
Thank you

Your Welcome.
A question: Did your rifle have a walnut stock?? Most did. My son's Deluxe is from the late 70's and was issued to the New Mexico State Prison for use by the guards... later sold at an auction. It came with a metal ventilated handguard over the barrel. With Hi Vel ammo it will shoot 1/2" at 25M using open sights. It is a really nice shooter.~Muir
 
Your Welcome.
A question: Did your rifle have a walnut stock?? Most did. My son's Deluxe is from the late 70's and was issued to the New Mexico State Prison for use by the guards... later sold at an auction. It came with a metal ventilated handguard over the barrel. With Hi Vel ammo it will shoot 1/2" at 25M using open sights. It is a really nice shooter. ~ Muir

It does indeed:shock:
Just looked at the old stock and there is an ink stamp NOV 1981 on the wood (in the channel where the barrel runs)
Nice wood, sharp checkering and a good colour
 
I took the rifle out today and was getting groups less than 1 inch at 50yds as long as I concentrated and held the gun very tight. If not carefull I would get 3 shots all touching then 2 way off to the right I worked out this is due to the heavy trigger pull as I actually saw the cross hairs move as I pulled the trigger on a couple of occasions. I don't know wether to try to file the hammer and sear to lighten the pull or buy a trigger kit to sort out the heavy pull.
 
First jam today with a borrowed unknown brand subsonic. Ditched that and back to the Geko Pistol and all was fine. Winchester Subs have always been fine though.
 
I have just found out that after checking 10 times that there is no bullet in it that I can suspend the gun complete with sak silencer and 3-9x40 scope altogether weighing 7lb with my finger on the trigger and it does not pull until I bounce it so I reckon the trigger pull to be around 8lbs
 
I have just found out that after checking 10 times that there is no bullet in it that I can suspend the gun complete with sak silencer and 3-9x40 scope altogether weighing 7lb with my finger on the trigger and it does not pull until I bounce it so I reckon the trigger pull to be around 8lbs

Ruger 10/22's have pretty nasty triggers. I have done many trigger jobs on Rugers and they are easy enough to do if you know what you're doing. I wouldn't recommend them for your first trigger job. You can order a trigger assembly from Timney. They run about $118 US.~Muir
 
Ruger 10/22's have pretty nasty triggers. I have done many trigger jobs on Rugers and they are easy enough to do if you know what you're doing. I wouldn't recommend them for your first trigger job. You can order a trigger assembly from Timney. They run about $118 US.~Muir

I am thinking of having ago if it goes wrong I will then buy the DIY kit. I am a mechanic so I am used to stripping things down and rebuilding them and I also have a good selection of tools and equipment.
 
I am thinking of having ago if it goes wrong I will then buy the DIY kit. I am a mechanic so I am used to stripping things down and rebuilding them and I also have a good selection of tools and equipment.

Pull the trigger assembly and watch the hammer very carefully as you squeeze the trigger. You will most likely see the hammer cam back against the mainspring as the trigger is pulled. It is that camming that you are trying to eliminate. You want the sear tip and the cocking notch in the hammer to be flat surfaces with each other at full cock with neither angles away or towards the other. Don't change trigger spring tension or mainspring tension. The first can cause partial sear engagement, and the second poor ignition and action "crash". The mainspring and strut are what impeded the bolt's rearward travel.

Get some very fine stones to work the sear geometry and work slow, reassembling and testing every few strokes. Good luck!~Muir
 
Just been looking online a trigger kit is about £35 with currant conversion rate if in America. But the same thing over here is £70 at the cheapest is it legal to get the trigger kit posted from America.
 
Have a chat with Roger at SYSS(rimfire magic) and he will steer you in the right direction.A few years ago now but he sorted my trigger and put i a recoil buffer for £45 posted
 
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