Tip Of The Week

Don't purchase a camera tripod if you've already spent money on an expensive set of shooting sticks with a 'third leg' as per the Knoblocks but rather install an adjustable ball head to one of the primary legs. I used Devon to secure the already tapped plug in place and then ran a tap through it to clean-up.

It will hold most cameras securely as demonstrated by this old Nikon with motor drive that is VERY heavy!

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I beleive there's a good ball head available in the Classifieds that may work but if not Jessops is your friend.

K
 
If you feel the need for a little more scope ring grip but have the foresight not to clamp said instrument in a manner that swages the tube or at best leaves it so badly marked it impacts resale value, simply coat both ring halves with this:
Trust me it works and has been recommended by both S&B and Swarovski.

K
 
If you feel the need for a little more scope ring grip but have the foresight not to clamp said instrument in a manner that swages the tube or at best leaves it so badly marked it impacts resale value, simply coat both ring halves with this:
Trust me it works and has been recommended by both S&B and Swarovski.

K

Interesting, is it easy to remove afterwards?

Sphur and other mount makers talk about powdered rosin but never felt necessary.

Still better than the tape they put in cheap scope mounts!
 
What to do with the redundant vibration damping feet from a pair of turntables? Simples if you have an RCBS Chargemaster:

Remove the existing Chargemaster feet and push the threaded section through the screw hole of the rubber bellows of each new unit. The rubber will grip the screw enough to allow secure tightening of each replacement foot without the need for a tool to hold the old feet.
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I guess you could purchase something similar from eBay if you have a less than ideal reloading bench.

K
 
Can’t recall if I’ve posted this before but here now with some pictures and a couple of tips if you’re considering install of Cottis supplied replacement leather bi-pod cushioning pads:

1. Make sure you do remove all the old Harris padding rather than gluing the new leather strips on top of the existing with the intention of increasing total thickness . The thought process that suggests increasing damping this way is indeed a sound one but be prepared to struggle mightily with engaging the swivel stud clamp as the greater thickness makes it a real pain to align. I should know as my pads are made of two pieces of leather glued & stitched which amounts to what I caution against!
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2. You may wish to consider not gluing new pads to the bi-pod but rather make a single leather one that is shaped and wet moulded to a;- the contour of the saddle and b;- the rifle forend. If you do go down this route and you only have one bi-pod for a number of rifles you can make a custom leather pad for each rifle and in whatever colour leather you fancy.
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3. When wet moulding the leather be sure to cover bi-pod and rifle with Clingfilm and do not over-tighten the swivel clamp that snugs the bi-pod to forend. You need to have some spring left in the leather to compress when the leather is dry.
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4. I have also drilled a small seating hole that is about 1mm deep into the metal where the swivel stud clamp tightens against as I found this stops the screw from moving to the left or right of centre when under the kind of load one can apply with a hex key wrench.
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Good luck!

K
 
I discovered this by pure accident about two years ago for touching up cabinet marks, and scope mount shadows on scopes.
The only scope it wouldn't work on was a high gloss Leupold.
Just give the mark a quick dab with the foam applicator, let it dry and give it a quick polish with a dry cloth if needed. By pure magic they all go.
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For those who either over-trim their brass by design or mistake and still wish to crimp using the the Lee Factory crimping die that affords zero adjustment in this regard, either machine down a second die base or shell holder. I chose the former approach using a lathe but it could be done just as effectively with a file and production paper.

Once you’ve reduced the die or holder to allow case to reach the petals you’ll need to experiment with die height adjustment as it will be very easy to over-crimp as demonstrated by the case on the right!
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A068CE93-E575-4000-B9CE-1A4C2407161C.webpK
 
Definitely get at least one non-metallic cut proof glove, possibly also wristlet sleeve off amazon for under a tenner. It might save your life, or even the use of your thumb tendon !
 
For those who either over-trim their brass by design or mistake and still wish to crimp using the the Lee Factory crimping die that affords zero adjustment in this regard, either machine down a second die base or shell holder. I chose the former approach using a lathe but it could be done just as effectively with a file and production paper.

Once you’ve reduced the die or holder to allow case to reach the petals you’ll need to experiment with die height adjustment as it will be very easy to over-crimp as demonstrated by the case on the right!
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View attachment 218818K
Cheeky, you switched the position of the cartridges from the top vs. the bottom picture🤣.
Is that a frequency inverter in the top picture? Neat!
 
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