You could also try a spoonful of Bisto. It won't cure it but it will thicken it up.
Tip Of The Week
- Thread starter Klenchblaize
- Start date
Avoid First Cleaning Patch Bore Lock-Up:
If like me you never use bronze brushes to clean your rifle, always apply a lubricant to the first cleaning patch you attempt to pass through a dirty bore.
I use a PTFE based bore conditioner and never commence the process with solvent.
K
If like me you never use bronze brushes to clean your rifle, always apply a lubricant to the first cleaning patch you attempt to pass through a dirty bore.
I use a PTFE based bore conditioner and never commence the process with solvent.
K
I find myself housebound in a blizzard.....
Muzzles (rifles and mods) - circular self adhesive stickers used to mark calendars - apply one to keep out rain and crap. Compressed air blows it out the way long before the bullet exits.
Alternatively a small piece of electrical tape which should be a requirement in your stalking bag anyway (see below).
Car seat belts (from a breakers yard obviously, not cut out of your new car...) - make very versatile strap material of drag slings, to widen slings on rifles, bags and backpacks.
Ratchet strap material makes a very good drag "rope" and rolls up much smaller than even a thin rope
By comparison a 1" ratchet strap has a load limit much higher than a 1/8-1/4" rope and packs away to much less
Temperature control - bring your rifles back up to room temperature (or ideally warmer) before cleaning and/or putting away. It removes condensation risk and allows application of oils without creating an emulsion when applied to cold rifles.
Strip your rifle out of the stock if soaked in rain.
Allow wood to dry slowly if possible
Dry Metalworks with hair dryer or over a mild heat source (radiator)
You shouldn't lose zero by removing and refitting stock
Lighter fluid
Is an extremely good cleaning solvent, degreases, can be used as a wash straight out of the can into niggly little hard to reach areas.
Especially good for triggers
Evaporated and dries without resiude
Pennies to buy
Air rifle cleaning rods
Very cheap (disposable),
Come in three pieces
Perfect emergency cleaner to pack in a day pack in the event of muzzle in mud incident
Always carry a clean (preferably cotton) hankerchief
Essential kit for mopping brows, wiping away tears, stemming the flow of blood (and with the use of the essential electrical tape), becoming an impromptu dressing for even the largest wound.
Can be rinsed and wrung out, reapplied
Numerous other possible jobs as necessary
Animals like deer with excellent ability to pick up movement find it much harder to pick that motion up when they themselves are moving. (Either head by itself or whole body, even when looking right at you)
Move when they move
Freeze when they freeze.
Small ziplock bags with a piece of kitchen towel (not toilet paper) and a microfibre lens cloth.
Cheap (free in some cases)
Stash them in every jacket, trouser, coat and bag pocket for use on your optics in the rain.
Soak the water off with the kitchen towel and clean with the microfibre cloth.
And if you get caught short you know you have a few emergency sheets of paper on you for the inevitable..
Muzzles (rifles and mods) - circular self adhesive stickers used to mark calendars - apply one to keep out rain and crap. Compressed air blows it out the way long before the bullet exits.
Alternatively a small piece of electrical tape which should be a requirement in your stalking bag anyway (see below).
Car seat belts (from a breakers yard obviously, not cut out of your new car...) - make very versatile strap material of drag slings, to widen slings on rifles, bags and backpacks.
Ratchet strap material makes a very good drag "rope" and rolls up much smaller than even a thin rope
By comparison a 1" ratchet strap has a load limit much higher than a 1/8-1/4" rope and packs away to much less
Temperature control - bring your rifles back up to room temperature (or ideally warmer) before cleaning and/or putting away. It removes condensation risk and allows application of oils without creating an emulsion when applied to cold rifles.
Strip your rifle out of the stock if soaked in rain.
Allow wood to dry slowly if possible
Dry Metalworks with hair dryer or over a mild heat source (radiator)
You shouldn't lose zero by removing and refitting stock
Lighter fluid
Is an extremely good cleaning solvent, degreases, can be used as a wash straight out of the can into niggly little hard to reach areas.
Especially good for triggers
Evaporated and dries without resiude
Pennies to buy
Air rifle cleaning rods
Very cheap (disposable),
Come in three pieces
Perfect emergency cleaner to pack in a day pack in the event of muzzle in mud incident
Always carry a clean (preferably cotton) hankerchief
Essential kit for mopping brows, wiping away tears, stemming the flow of blood (and with the use of the essential electrical tape), becoming an impromptu dressing for even the largest wound.
Can be rinsed and wrung out, reapplied
Numerous other possible jobs as necessary
Animals like deer with excellent ability to pick up movement find it much harder to pick that motion up when they themselves are moving. (Either head by itself or whole body, even when looking right at you)
Move when they move
Freeze when they freeze.
Small ziplock bags with a piece of kitchen towel (not toilet paper) and a microfibre lens cloth.
Cheap (free in some cases)
Stash them in every jacket, trouser, coat and bag pocket for use on your optics in the rain.
Soak the water off with the kitchen towel and clean with the microfibre cloth.
And if you get caught short you know you have a few emergency sheets of paper on you for the inevitable..
Guess I might have posted this under "Vinyl Friday" but as it remains very much a tip/recommendation what the hell.
Probably one of the most tastefully packaged CD format compilations of obscure tunes you will come across. Worth every penny of the £33 for the Skylab 14 minute track that closes Disc 1 alone. My copy arrived today:
Dig those funky chimes!
K
Probably one of the most tastefully packaged CD format compilations of obscure tunes you will come across. Worth every penny of the £33 for the Skylab 14 minute track that closes Disc 1 alone. My copy arrived today:
Dig those funky chimes!
K
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The northstar is built like the proverbial brick sh1t house. It has strength to spare for one contact point ie the thread. Reflex are made of tin foil and are longer back so are designed for bushing to support. Some like Hausken have a cosmetic plastic washer to keep out twigs.I use an ASE Utra Northstar on my .270. It's a over-barrel mod' with no rear bushing by design. It butts up against the thread shoulders and I can't say I've ever had an issue with it not needing a bush. Wonder why some need it, but this doesn't?
As CarlW asked about the handle I thought I'd confirm it's quite straightforward to convert a conventionally mounted RCBS press into one that can be positioned in the middle of your reloading bench for ease of access, albeit if you wish to use for other than bullet seating you should view this as a second press setup unless limiting operations to full length resizing 222 cases or smaller:
First you need to drill your press to accept 3 appropriately sized threaded rods and then your bench to recieve the "legs" once suitably sleeved with snug fitting steel tube. Youll then need chunky penny-like washers and nuts to mount it real tight to your bench. The third leg will require you to drill & tap into the meaty back section. Take your time and use the right size bit to accept the die and all will be fine.
As for bending the handle into a more comfortable operating shape you'll need to work that out in your head when applying heat and oriantating in a vice before bending with aid of a scaffold tube! As I recall it took 3 bends to get it how I wanted it.
Go-faster aluminium gear knob from Halfords is optional!
K
First you need to drill your press to accept 3 appropriately sized threaded rods and then your bench to recieve the "legs" once suitably sleeved with snug fitting steel tube. Youll then need chunky penny-like washers and nuts to mount it real tight to your bench. The third leg will require you to drill & tap into the meaty back section. Take your time and use the right size bit to accept the die and all will be fine.
As for bending the handle into a more comfortable operating shape you'll need to work that out in your head when applying heat and oriantating in a vice before bending with aid of a scaffold tube! As I recall it took 3 bends to get it how I wanted it.
Go-faster aluminium gear knob from Halfords is optional!
K
CarlW
Well-Known Member
That's really clever. Thank you, Klenchblaize.As CarlW asked about the handle I thought I'd confirm it's quite straightforward to convert a conventionally mounted RCBS press into one that can be positioned in the middle of your reloading bench for ease of access, albeit if you wish to use for other than bullet seating you should view this as a second press setup unless limiting operations to full length resizing 222 cases or smaller:
First you need to drill your press to accept 3 appropriately sized threaded rods and then your bench to recieve the "legs" once suitably sleeved with snug fitting steel tube. Youll then need chunky penny-like washers and nuts to mount it real tight to your bench. The third leg will require you to drill & tap into the meaty back section. Take your time and use the right size bit to accept the die and all will be fine.
As for bending the handle into a more comfortable operating shape you'll need to work that out in your head when applying heat and oriantating in a vice before bending with aid of a scaffold tube! As I recall it took 3 bends to get it how I wanted it.
Go-faster aluminium gear knob from Halfords is optional!
K
Kind regards,
Carl
I'll have to sneak a listen to that if You tube or similar has it. I played a EMS VCS3 back in the 80's, a band I was working with borrowed it from Lene Lovich. I ended up building something similar as we had to return it. Those things can fetch 12 grand now.Guess I might have posted this under "Vinyl Friday" but as it remains very much a tip/recommendation what the hell.
Probably one of the most tastefully packaged CD format compilations of obscure tunes you will come across. Worth every penny of the £33 for the Skylab 14 minute track that closes Disc 1 alone. My copy arrived today:
Dig those funky chimes!
K
FISH BOY
Well-Known Member
As CarlW asked about the handle I thought I'd confirm it's quite straightforward to convert a conventionally mounted RCBS press into one that can be positioned in the middle of your reloading bench for ease of access, albeit if you wish to use for other than bullet seating you should view this as a second press setup unless limiting operations to full length resizing 222 cases or smaller:
First you need to drill your press to accept 3 appropriately sized threaded rods and then your bench to recieve the "legs" once suitably sleeved with snug fitting steel tube. Youll then need chunky penny-like washers and nuts to mount it real tight to your bench. The third leg will require you to drill & tap into the meaty back section. Take your time and use the right size bit to accept the die and all will be fine.
As for bending the handle into a more comfortable operating shape you'll need to work that out in your head when applying heat and oriantating in a vice before bending with aid of a scaffold tube! As I recall it took 3 bends to get it how I wanted it.
Go-faster aluminium gear knob from Halfords is optional!
K
Thats my kind of workbench
enfieldspares
Well-Known Member
Get down the local Army Surplus store, or regional Arms Fair, and get one of a 7.62mm NATO, .30-06 US Government WWII or German WWII Mauser five round clip. Then if you shoot .243, .25-06, .270 WCF, 7mm-08, .308, or .30-06 you can carry five rounds without them all loose in your pocket and, if you've time, can replace the loaded cartridge you've used to top up with the case you've just fired. As like they said about carrying a revolver if you have any of it you've all of it.
Or, if you've got one of these..this is mine...you can just clip load anyway. It's in .270 WCF.
Or, if you've got one of these..this is mine...you can just clip load anyway. It's in .270 WCF.
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Use my PES on the .308 without a bush regularly for mcqueens comps, no issues whatsoever!
CarlW
Well-Known Member
Yep. Straight in the bin, every time: just a dirt/grit/moisture magnet.
CarlW
Well-Known Member
I agree. And have you noticed his label-maker? I like people with label-makers. The importance of the correct stationery and its associated equipment is often underestimated. I can't see his stapler on the table but it wouldn't surprise me to discover that he's running a Swingline 415 or even one of the larger Rexel bad boys...Thats my kind of workbench
The "No-Slip Rifle Sling Fix" you've all been waiting for:
This could also be done with a small peice of drilled and profiled antela, rolled fabric offcut or large coat button.
K
This could also be done with a small peice of drilled and profiled antela, rolled fabric offcut or large coat button.
K
Hunter5567
Well-Known Member
I use mineral oil to wipe down my firearms for storage or general use. It doesn't have a smell to it, doesn't evaporate, brings out the nice bluing and doubles as a anti constipator should the need arise ( u can drink it). It's cheap at the grocery store and a bottle lasts a long time.
I used it on about 10 firearms that were put away in storage in gun cases for over 2 years and they came out looking pristine.
Saw this tip a long time ago in Outdoor Life magazine.
Used with a stainless steel pot scrubber, it will take the rust off and leave the bluing unmarred. 0000 steel wool will also work but it can fade the bluing. A gunsmith showed that trick with the stainless steel pot scrubber. I thought it would scratch up the gun barrel but it's very soft stainless steel.
I used it on about 10 firearms that were put away in storage in gun cases for over 2 years and they came out looking pristine.
Saw this tip a long time ago in Outdoor Life magazine.
Used with a stainless steel pot scrubber, it will take the rust off and leave the bluing unmarred. 0000 steel wool will also work but it can fade the bluing. A gunsmith showed that trick with the stainless steel pot scrubber. I thought it would scratch up the gun barrel but it's very soft stainless steel.
I imagine that, being a mineral oil, it might be fine to prevent oxidation on exposed surfaces. I don't know whether I'd want it in barrels or on moving parts.
However, I do know that it is no longer recommended for the management of constipation.
Nice/BNF say:
Liquid paraffin has also been used as a lubricant for the passage of stools but manufacturer advises that it should be used with caution because of its adverse effects, which include anal seepage and the risks of granulomatous disease of the gastro-intestinal tract or of lipoid pneumonia on aspiration.
