Well well, old dog, new tricks. Just learnt something really useful today, for years I was only interested in the cross section of a reticule, the rest was just a nuisance, just goes to show, many thanks.
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222 zeroing
- Thread starter mikesy
- Start date
badbob
Well-Known Member
Great cartridge and should group 1/2 inch at 100.yards
Depends what you are shooting at and what your our normal ranges are.
If 90% of your shots are 100 yards or so then zero at 100 yards.
If you are 1 inch high at a hundred and you pull your shot you might be 2 inches high and just miss a small target at that range.
If you are on open range 200 yards plus, then 1 inch high might be be more appropriate.
I prefer just a tad high (1/2 inch.) at 100 yards
Zero at 40 yards for ease, then check at 100, 150, 200 etc for finer adjustment
Depends what you are shooting at and what your our normal ranges are.
If 90% of your shots are 100 yards or so then zero at 100 yards.
If you are 1 inch high at a hundred and you pull your shot you might be 2 inches high and just miss a small target at that range.
If you are on open range 200 yards plus, then 1 inch high might be be more appropriate.
I prefer just a tad high (1/2 inch.) at 100 yards
Zero at 40 yards for ease, then check at 100, 150, 200 etc for finer adjustment
antsa
Well-Known Member
My .222 is a 40 year old Sako AI with a 570mm, 1:14" sporter barrel. At the moment (as long as my supply lasts) I'm using Hornady Z-Max 50gr over ADI 2207 (close to VV N130). MV=936m/s (3070fps). 3cm over at 100m (109yd) gives a near zero of 35m and a far zero of 160m. Aim and shoot from 8m to 183m. Perfect for fox work.
Cheers
Cheers
Foxyboy43
Well-Known Member
Righto. I am going to assuming you use the reticle half-mildot reference points for holding over...
Using a ballistic app such as Strelok, one method of selecting a useful zero range is to incrementally increase the zero range from say 50m in 10m increments, each time checking the reticle image in the app to see how the hash marks align with easy to remember ranges.
It is extremely useful to have each dot correspond with increments of 50m, 100m, whatever. Obviously you need to have your load variables properly worked out and entered in the app, not just a rough estimate.
I use various BDC and mildot reticles setup in useful increments of 10m, 50m, 100m etc, depending on cartridge. So for instance, my .22LR is zeroed at 60m, my .243 Win at 140m, my .308 Win at 200m. Each BDC reticle has hash marks aligned with either 10m, 50m or 100m drops. In the field, it is highly advantageous to be able to judge holdover quickly and accurately using easy to remember numbers.
Using a ballistic app such as Strelok, one method of selecting a useful zero range is to incrementally increase the zero range from say 50m in 10m increments, each time checking the reticle image in the app to see how the hash marks align with easy to remember ranges.
It is extremely useful to have each dot correspond with increments of 50m, 100m, whatever. Obviously you need to have your load variables properly worked out and entered in the app, not just a rough estimate.
I use various BDC and mildot reticles setup in useful increments of 10m, 50m, 100m etc, depending on cartridge. So for instance, my .22LR is zeroed at 60m, my .243 Win at 140m, my .308 Win at 200m. Each BDC reticle has hash marks aligned with either 10m, 50m or 100m drops. In the field, it is highly advantageous to be able to judge holdover quickly and accurately using easy to remember numbers.
I do not shoot 222 but I do shoot 22 hornet with a 45 grain bullet at 2900 . When people say I zero x high I have a rendancy to say thats not a zero thats a guess , I have a 140 yard set zero on the hornet this takes me on a point and shoot trajectory with minimal height over the line of sight ( small enough that if I miss a bunnies bonce its me ) right out to 160 yards . After that I can dial or aim a tad higher. To dial in to a 200 yard target I need 2 moa ( is I am 4 " low for tge shot ) . With a 222 and say a 40 grain v max i guess ( you need to check this out on a program and in tge field ) your going to be point and shoot on most things 25 yards to 200 trajectory wise . Ballistic programs allow you to experiment with different bore to scope and zero ranges bc and velocity, they are worth a week of experimentation .
Foxyboy43
Well-Known Member
Sounds fascinating though I have never actually tried a BP but surely not as much fun as “experimentation”?
No not half as much , but a lot easier than the old fashioned, shooting till you burn the barrel out and recording conditions. Think of it wasxa time saving exercise. Put tge data in , fiddle about with set zero pushing it as far as you can out without having an unacceptably high peak trajectory over the line of sight . Right it down on a sheet then go and test it in real life , record it , learn it off patt and spend your practice sessions actually hitting stuff !Sounds fascinating though I have never actually tried a BP but surely not as much fun as “experimentation”?
mikesy
Well-Known Member
What B P do you recommend.
There are lots today , I just use quick target in the quickload program . Think if I was doing it today I might look around and see what was available integrated into a range finder . All my winage calls are ten mph fv so I half , quarter, double etc in my head
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