.303 accuracy?
- Thread starter Triggermortis
- Start date
Triggermortis
Well-Known Member
I’ve now had the rifle looked at by someone that deals in all things Enfield, it seems I struck lucky, on inspection he gave it a glowing report, barrel is good/excellent and the best original one he’s seen, bolt is the same condition, all numbers match and everything is original, I had to promise to give him first refusal if I ever want rid.
Just need to get out and shoot it, he’s gonna come out and give me a few pointers on using open sights.
I’ve now got 2 boxes of 150g Interlock SP’s to reload.
Just need to get out and shoot it, he’s gonna come out and give me a few pointers on using open sights.
I’ve now got 2 boxes of 150g Interlock SP’s to reload.
Bavarianbrit
Well-Known Member
Bavarianbrit
Well-Known Member
I have just spent an hour cleaning the bore out of the residue from fallen Huns.
Triggermortis
Well-Known Member
Forgive what maybe an obvious question, will a standard 30 cal brush be good to go or do I need .303 specific?
Fosbery Holster
Well-Known Member
What a great rework almost lost its previous identity, quite a mixture of of additions, obviously an early German scope with top elevation turret and windage combined rear mount, which scope maker ??
And is that a W W Greener type thumb safety ??
l bet its quite a lively handling rifle and points really well, nice addition to your cabinet.
The basic of iron sights are that the top of the blade should (usually*) be level with the top of the "wings" on the backsight and that there should be equal light on either side of the blade. On a rifle with a nickel silver or white metal or ivory bead sight and a "shallow vee" rearsight type notch the bead should be in the at the bottom of the shallow vee. So as in A or as in D respectively. I pasted the picture from the web so ignore all others as shown!
As you eyes cannot focus on three objects...rearsight, frontsight, the target aimed at...you have to decide which will be allowed to be in shrap focus and which to become blurred. As you get older this swapping that focus from one to the other becomes more difficult but it is usually best of it is the target aimed at that is kept "sharp".
My method is focus the two sight elements, then focus the target aimed at, a quick swap of focus to check sights OK then focus again on the target aimed at and release the shot. With aperture sight as on the No4 and Pattern '14 and .30/06 Model 1917 it's a lot easier! Indeed I sold my SMLE some ten years back now as I could no longer do this focus with my eyes as I aged.
* If shooting at a suddenly appearing target at longer distance presenting at the same time as targets at the distance you've actually sighted the rifle for if you really, really, really know you rifle you can raise the foresight above the top of the backsight "wings" for that longer distance shot. But you do have to know how much is needed to hold above those "wings". As in the second picture from the left below.
As you eyes cannot focus on three objects...rearsight, frontsight, the target aimed at...you have to decide which will be allowed to be in shrap focus and which to become blurred. As you get older this swapping that focus from one to the other becomes more difficult but it is usually best of it is the target aimed at that is kept "sharp".
My method is focus the two sight elements, then focus the target aimed at, a quick swap of focus to check sights OK then focus again on the target aimed at and release the shot. With aperture sight as on the No4 and Pattern '14 and .30/06 Model 1917 it's a lot easier! Indeed I sold my SMLE some ten years back now as I could no longer do this focus with my eyes as I aged.
* If shooting at a suddenly appearing target at longer distance presenting at the same time as targets at the distance you've actually sighted the rifle for if you really, really, really know you rifle you can raise the foresight above the top of the backsight "wings" for that longer distance shot. But you do have to know how much is needed to hold above those "wings". As in the second picture from the left below.
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Triggermortis
Well-Known Member
Just what the doctor ordered Enfield, thank you .
Mine has the “C” configuration
Mine has the “C” configuration
Bavarianbrit
Well-Known Member
Very light and springy in the hand, I could carry it all day. The safety is the same style as are fitted to many drillings.
Oh! As you asked I just looked for a makers mark on the scope, it is located underneath the occular and reads A. Jackenkroll Berlin SO33 so it looks like it could be an original German sniper scope, they seem to be going from 750 Euros on upwards, thanks for asking me as otherwise I would never have looked, I had a local scope repairer strip and clean it around 8 years ago. The vertical adjustment on top has lost the paint and is down to the brass well used so it may have taken a few victims in its time. So sad.
It is 12.5 inches long and appears to be this one as it is the only one offered of that length and that in 1939. Hm, now I will have to take it out after boar. "edit" I have just found on the vertical adjustment block an "Ajack 6x50" stamping on the left side and a number "341" hand engraved on the right side.
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Fosbery Holster
Well-Known Member
Great scope thank you for the details, you have all the information you need about it in the Ajack advertisement, 6x magnification x50 luminosity.
Ajack scopes are probably some of the best from that time period and with that typical Graticule No1 it certainly could be an original sniper scope, from my understanding weren’t the scopes numbered to the rifle ? has your scope any other serial numbers on the body/tube that could be attributed to a service rifle ?
During WW2 Sweden did a deal with Germany for sniper scopes and mounts and it was Ajack scopes that were supplied in exchange for iron ore.
On the vertical adjustment (elevation) you say there’s some paint loss that wouldn’t bother me it gives the scope some history, now is the elevation turret marked in the brass with distances 1 2 3 4 etc or something similar ?
Bavarianbrit
Well-Known Member
As I wrote the number "341" is hand engraved on the right side of the top block. To me the worn lacquer on the scope is a sign of really being used a lot does not bother me at all and which is is tipping me to think it is an ex Wehrmacht item. I will have to run it through some range time as the scope had been stripped and cleaned so the poi could be anywhere, adjusting it will be some fun as I have never had to move a rear mount before.
Fosbery Holster
Well-Known Member
l think that the number “341” hand engraved will be the scopes serial number, the advertisement of 1939 gives me a sense that if your scope is exactly the same as the one advertised it is possibly a commercial model, l somehow don’t think that Ajack would be advertising them for sale after that date because of the onset of WW2.
The windage adjustment via the square headed screw will only move the ocular end of the scope in small increments as it looks like the objective end mount is fixed securely to the receiver (possibly some movement in that mount) after all when the scope was originally mounted it wouldn’t need that much adjustment as it would be perfectly aligned with the barrel.
All of the German sniper scopes l have seen (not that many) the rifle serial number was engraved on the barrel/tube as Gewehr xxxxx so that the matched scope would not be separated from its counterpart.
If in any doubt about your scopes provenance just ask any of your German friends one of them will surely be able to confirm it’s history if not the guy who cleaned the scope some time ago would be my first choice.
Brilliant scopes and to me it looks the part on your rifle, have a great time zeroing it at the rang.
Heym SR20
Well-Known Member
A really good article - albeit on 318 NE, but showing sight pictures - Westley Richards .318 Rimless Nitro Express – A Near Forgotten Classic of Once Legendary Status / The Explora - Premier Online Field Sports & Gun Journal
The key point with open sights and fast and consistent shooting, is the sights should align naturally as you mount the rifle. To achieve this the rifle needs to fit well, in particular comb height. With a well fitting rifle you can look at the target, bring the rifle to the shoulder and sights should be aligned correctly and on target. If you have to scrunch your head down onto the comb or move the rifle it doesn't fit. And of course a rifle that fits well for open sights, probably doesn't fit with a scope and vice versa. It also depends on shooting style. Brits and Americans like a really strong cheek weld with the comb just under the cheek bone. Most continentals tend to use a much more upright style with comb on the jaw bone, hence often a lot more drop on the stock.
The key point with open sights and fast and consistent shooting, is the sights should align naturally as you mount the rifle. To achieve this the rifle needs to fit well, in particular comb height. With a well fitting rifle you can look at the target, bring the rifle to the shoulder and sights should be aligned correctly and on target. If you have to scrunch your head down onto the comb or move the rifle it doesn't fit. And of course a rifle that fits well for open sights, probably doesn't fit with a scope and vice versa. It also depends on shooting style. Brits and Americans like a really strong cheek weld with the comb just under the cheek bone. Most continentals tend to use a much more upright style with comb on the jaw bone, hence often a lot more drop on the stock.
Fosbery Holster
Well-Known Member
If ever you find any of the “square shouldered” .318 rounds mentioned it the article please let me know !
Bavarianbrit
Well-Known Member
I have just put my Bushnell boresighter with the .32" spud into the bore which fitted very tightly and this was the result. Shooting will tell. The $74.00 sale price in the USA was a lot of money back in 1939.
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Fosbery Holster
Well-Known Member
Looking at the quality of finish with this Enfield conversion and mounting of the scope l don’t think you will have to many problems zeroing !!
Looking forward to your results, enjoy your range time.
Smellydog
Well-Known Member
Absolutely spot on. I apply the same approach to even scoped rifles.
I also never adhere to the notion of "cheek weld" and also prefer a more relaxed and upright head.
I think it is one of the reasons I like Winchester 94 models. They come up like a well fitting shotgun and the open sights are there with little fiddling around. Basically a quick check all is equal and then concentrate on the trigger which will be ideally under 2&1/2lb.
badmolassesaccident
Well-Known Member
For everyone on this thread with a historic 303 -
Do you have it with open conditions on your ticket, or is it conditioned for target only?
I have a SMLE 303 which is conditioned for target only. All my other rifles, including a .300, are open. The FEO explained this as they don't really want people going hunting with 100+ year old rifles when they own modern rifles as well.
FYI OP - non FMJ 303 British hunting ammo is not that common in the UK. Easy to find in Australia or Canada, but not so easy in the UK. I see you have found some Winchester and Federal SP rounds, but that isn't the kind of stuff I see much of at the average UK gun shop.
Do you have it with open conditions on your ticket, or is it conditioned for target only?
I have a SMLE 303 which is conditioned for target only. All my other rifles, including a .300, are open. The FEO explained this as they don't really want people going hunting with 100+ year old rifles when they own modern rifles as well.
FYI OP - non FMJ 303 British hunting ammo is not that common in the UK. Easy to find in Australia or Canada, but not so easy in the UK. I see you have found some Winchester and Federal SP rounds, but that isn't the kind of stuff I see much of at the average UK gun shop.
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