7x57 reloading advice with Vitavouri N150

Wiggo

Member
Hi everyone, Id like some advice if possible please. I have shot 80 rounds or so of factory brass in my Heym SR20N and Im ready to reload that once fired brass. The Vit N150 data, which is the powder I have, for 7x57 mauser is for 140gr and 160gr bullets. I have Hornady 139gr SST's and 162gr ELD match bullets. Is the difference in bullet weight enough that the starting loads in the Vit manual for N150 need to be revised or can I load 139gr as per the 140gr starting load and load the 162gr as per 160gr starting load? I cant find Hornady data for their bullets and N150 powder?
I have some Hornady brass which was loaded with 139gr SST's, I have some Gecco brass that was loaded with 162gr SP's and the bulk of my brass ( about 50 cases ) is Priti Partizan PPU which was loaded with their 173gr FMJ. Also, the factory Hornady ammo I have with the 139gr SST bullet is crimped. It may seem a stupid question but should all cannelured bullets be crimped? I'm a novice rifle cartridge reloader and Im gathering information before I do anything. I did reload straight walled pistol ammunition many years ago but this is a different ballgame. I think I can get some one to one help if needed.Thanks in advance.
 
Even the same weight bullets of different styles & from different manufacturers can produce different average pressures. A good reference is the test done by Accurate Arms Powders which covered a dozen or so different bullets (all conventional jacketed/lead cored) in the 270 Win - it was published some years ago in the ‘Precision Shooting Magazine. However, the differences in average pressure were small enough that they wouldn't be an issue when using starter to mid range loads. Vihtavuori stater loads are conservative & your suggested substitution i.e. 162 for 160 isn’t going to be a problem.

You don’t need to crimp a bullet just because it has a cannelure, nor do you normally need to crimp anyway.

You’d be well advised to obtain a copy of a good loading manual such as Lyman or Hornady which have extensive chapters covering loading techniques - as you say, it’s quite a lot different than reloading straight walled pistol cartridges (which I’ve done plenty of in the past).

Final note - I know you didn’t mention monolithic brass/copper bullets but it’s worth highlighting that whilst substituting one conventional lead cored bullet for another conventional one of roughly similar weight may only alter the average pressure by a modest amount - substituting copper/brass monolithic bullets may greatly increase pressures compared to conventional bullets - so only use data developed for monolithic bullets.
 
Hi everyone, Id like some advice if possible please. I have shot 80 rounds or so of factory brass in my Heym SR20N and Im ready to reload that once fired brass. The Vit N150 data, which is the powder I have, for 7x57 mauser is for 140gr and 160gr bullets. I have Hornady 139gr SST's and 162gr ELD match bullets. Is the difference in bullet weight enough that the starting loads in the Vit manual for N150 need to be revised or can I load 139gr as per the 140gr starting load and load the 162gr as per 160gr starting load? I cant find Hornady data for their bullets and N150 powder?
You'll be fine using 140 data for 139 etc. I use 162s too, in Geco brass through the same rifle. I don't use Viht powder though (yet).
I have some Hornady brass which was loaded with 139gr SST's, I have some Gecco brass that was loaded with 162gr SP's and the bulk of my brass ( about 50 cases ) is Priti Partizan PPU which was loaded with their 173gr FMJ. Also, the factory Hornady ammo I have with the 139gr SST bullet is crimped. It may seem a stupid question but should all cannelured bullets be crimped?
No. Up to you whether you do or not. I generally don't bother, but I only stalk at modest ranges and don't target shoot.
I'm a novice rifle cartridge reloader and Im gathering information before I do anything. I did reload straight walled pistol ammunition many years ago but this is a different ballgame. I think I can get some one to one help if needed.Thanks in advance.
There are some good, and some dodgy videos on youtube to help, and I think there is a sticky thread on here with a guide to reloading.
 
Vihtavouri website - look up N150 powder and plenty of good data.


I would just use this data with the bullets you have. A 1gn difference will make little difference. I would start with a pressure test starting at base load and going up in 0.3gn increments- one cartridge at each. Shoot them all from a cold barrel at the same point of aim. If you have access to a chronograph measure the velocity. Start from the low end and stop when you start seeing pressure signs

You may well see a few grouping together or velocities seem similar. That’s a good indication of a potential node.

Or come slightly down from the pressure signs. Load up some three round samples yo test for accuracy.

I always crimp as it a) gives better consistency and b) makes your ammo tougher and able to survive usual going in and of pockets , magazines etc. i suspect that most hunting rounds will be loaded in and out of magazine several times during the course of their life.

Stick to one type of brass, and try to keep it in batches. Nowt wrong with PPU. Key for reloading with a rifle is to avoid variations. Mixing brass types or even batches is not good practice.

The Hornady manual is a good one and available as ebook or download. The Viht website has plenty of good info on reloading techniques and safety as well a full pdf download


And you can always refer back to Reloading with Rosie online video tutorial
 
Last edited:
Even the same weight bullets of different styles & from different manufacturers can produce different average pressures. A good reference is the test done by Accurate Arms Powders which covered a dozen or so different bullets (all conventional jacketed/lead cored) in the 270 Win - it was published some years ago in the ‘Precision Shooting Magazine. However, the differences in average pressure were small enough that they wouldn't be an issue when using starter to mid range loads. Vihtavuori stater loads are conservative & your suggested substitution i.e. 162 for 160 isn’t going to be a problem.

You don’t need to crimp a bullet just because it has a cannelure, nor do you normally need to crimp anyway.

You’d be well advised to obtain a copy of a good loading manual such as Lyman or Hornady which have extensive chapters covering loading techniques - as you say, it’s quite a lot different than reloading straight walled pistol cartridges (which I’ve done plenty of in the past).

Final note - I know you didn’t mention monolithic brass/copper bullets but it’s worth highlighting that whilst substituting one conventional lead cored bullet for another conventional one of roughly similar weight may only alter the average pressure by a modest amount - substituting copper/brass monolithic bullets may greatly increase pressures compared to conventional bullets - so only use data developed for monolithic bullets.
Thank you Webley. That's what I suspected regarding slight differences in bullet weight and starting loads, but good to get it confirmed. I have an old Lyman 47th edition reloading manual from my pistol shooting days, and the Hornady ABC of reloading which I got off Ebay last week. I also have the Vihtavouri manual. Thats an excellent point regarding modern solids! I would have overlooked that. Thanks for taking the time to help me out👍
 
You’ve got a fantastic chambering in 7x57 with the perfect powder for 140 grain bullets in N150.
Thanks. I have recently started to put together the kit for reloading and it seems powder and primers are in short supply or unavailable? I had a day at Tim Hannams Reloading and the lads there were top drawer.Before calling over,they advised that they were fulfilling back orders for Vihtavouri powders and N140 would probably be all they could offer. N150 offers a load for most of the bullet weights in 7x57 and the N140 just 120 and 140gr. Anyway they had a few tubs of N150 and I bought 2. Looks like more war is coming?? Apparently Vihtavouri are fulfilling military orders for propellant hence the shortage. Go well Jock
 
You'll be fine using 140 data for 139 etc. I use 162s too, in Geco brass through the same rifle. I don't use Viht powder though (yet).

No. Up to you whether you do or not. I generally don't bother, but I only stalk at modest ranges and don't target shoot.

There are some good, and some dodgy videos on youtube to help, and I think there is a sticky thread on here with a guide to reloading.
Much appreciated. I'm at YT university most days trying to get educated. The lads at Tim Hannams Reloading were really helpful and said they'd help me if I needed it. Thank you Apthorpe
 
Vihtavouri website - look up N150 powder and plenty of good data.


I would just use this data with the bullets you have. A 1gn difference will make little difference. I would start with a pressure test starting at base load and going up in 0.3gn increments- one cartridge at each. Shoot them all from a cold barrel at the same point of aim. If you have access to a chronograph measure the velocity. Start from the low end and stop when you start seeing pressure signs

You may well see a few grouping together or velocities seem similar. That’s a good indication of a potential node.

Or come slightly down from the pressure signs. Load up some three round samples yo test for accuracy.

I always crimp as it a) gives better consistency and b) makes your ammo tougher and able to survive usual going in and of pockets , magazines etc. i suspect that most hunting rounds will be loaded in and out of magazine several times during the course of their life.

Stick to one type of brass, and try to keep it in batches. Nowt wrong with PPU. Key for reloading with a rifle is to avoid variations. Mixing brass types or even batches is not good practice.

The Hornady manual is a good one and available as ebook or download. The Viht website has plenty of good info on reloading techniques and safety as well a full pdf download


And you can always refer back to Reloading with Rosie online video tutorial

Hi HeymSR20
Lots of good advice here and thanks for taking the time to help me out. I have a Vihtavouri manual and a Lyman 47th edition, plus Hornady's ABC of reloading so between these and various YT channels, Im getting a good idea on a safe start to developing a pet load for my rifle. I bought as much factory ammo as was allowed on my FAC when I bought the Heym in 2020 and Im ready to reload some of that brass. I'll keep batches separate! I have about 100 cases each of Norma, Hornady, Geco and PPU
Is a node a sweet spot combination of everything? bullet weight, powder charge, primer, barrel harmonics etc with that cartrige combination? Ive seen it mentioned by Erik Cortina and the Ultimate Reloading guys. Although YT does does appear to be a minefield it times!! If in doubt, I'll give Rosie a shout. Cheers Heym 👍 :)
 
😂 I forgot about reloading with Rosie!!!
OMG, one of the ultimate way to secure followers and brand loyalists. You couldn’t make it up.
 
Hi HeymSR20
Lots of good advice here and thanks for taking the time to help me out. I have a Vihtavouri manual and a Lyman 47th edition, plus Hornady's ABC of reloading so between these and various YT channels, Im getting a good idea on a safe start to developing a pet load for my rifle. I bought as much factory ammo as was allowed on my FAC when I bought the Heym in 2020 and Im ready to reload some of that brass. I'll keep batches separate! I have about 100 cases each of Norma, Hornady, Geco and PPU
Is a node a sweet spot combination of everything? bullet weight, powder charge, primer, barrel harmonics etc with that cartrige combination? Ive seen it mentioned by Erik Cortina and the Ultimate Reloading guys. Although YT does does appear to be a minefield it times!! If in doubt, I'll give Rosie a shout. Cheers Heym 👍 :)
Yes a node is a sweet spot when everything all vibrates and balances in harmony with each other.
 
Congratulations on joining the 7x57 club. It's a phenomenal performing cartridge that is well suited to N150 powder with bullets around 130 to 140grains in weight. I am getting 3000fps with 130gr Sierra Match King bullets using 47gr of N150 in my 1955 BSA Hunter chambered in 7x57. It's accurate, mild recoiling and doesn't cause pressure signs or split cases. So I reckon you will be able to work up a nice N150 load gradually as per the usual step by step process for your 7x57.
 

Attachments

  • 7mm BSA with Zeiss scope.jpg
    7mm BSA with Zeiss scope.jpg
    249.5 KB · Views: 18
I would start with the 50 ppu cases 10-20 pieces of different brands are to few to start load developement with.
 
Congratulations on joining the 7x57 club. It's a phenomenal performing cartridge that is well suited to N150 powder with bullets around 130 to 140grains in weight. I am getting 3000fps with 130gr Sierra Match King bullets using 47gr of N150 in my 1955 BSA Hunter chambered in 7x57. It's accurate, mild recoiling and doesn't cause pressure signs or split cases. So I reckon you will be able to work up a nice N150 load gradually as per the usual step by step process for your 7x57.
Hi HandB
I had read so much about the .275 Rigby and had a trip of a lifetime management hunting in Zimbabwe in 2003. I was using the PH's pre 64 Winchester model 70's chambered for .243 and .30-06. I shot 160gr, 180gr and 200gr grain silvertips in .30-06 and the 200gr loads were rattling my fillings! they were too much recoil for me.
On the way home I stayed with a guy who was a serious hunter and his gun collection was impressive. He had everything from an old but wonderful William Evans .470 NE down to .22 LR. In his collection he had a lovely sporterized 7x57 mauser. It had drop leaf express sights, nice wood, schnabel fore end on a Mauser action. Alec, my host, said it was a massively underrated cartridge and killed beyond its ballistics and if recoil was a problem this was a good solution. His rifle was a riflemans rifle imo and I wanted one. Your rifle reminded me of my last night in Zim. Thanks for the load data, its really appreciated.
 
Hi HandB
I had read so much about the .275 Rigby and had a trip of a lifetime management hunting in Zimbabwe in 2003. I was using the PH's pre 64 Winchester model 70's chambered for .243 and .30-06. I shot 160gr, 180gr and 200gr grain silvertips in .30-06 and the 200gr loads were rattling my fillings! they were too much recoil for me.
On the way home I stayed with a guy who was a serious hunter and his gun collection was impressive. He had everything from an old but wonderful William Evans .470 NE down to .22 LR. In his collection he had a lovely sporterized 7x57 mauser. It had drop leaf express sights, nice wood, schnabel fore end on a Mauser action. Alec, my host, said it was a massively underrated cartridge and killed beyond its ballistics and if recoil was a problem this was a good solution. His rifle was a riflemans rifle imo and I wanted one. Your rifle reminded me of my last night in Zim. Thanks for the load data, its really appreciated.
You're welcome - BSA rifles have excellent barrels and triggers and are inexpensive even in mint condition so well worth bagging one if you enjoy the classic style. Keep an eye on the Holt's auction website.
 
Hi HandB
I had read so much about the .275 Rigby and had a trip of a lifetime management hunting in Zimbabwe in 2003. I was using the PH's pre 64 Winchester model 70's chambered for .243 and .30-06. I shot 160gr, 180gr and 200gr grain silvertips in .30-06 and the 200gr loads were rattling my fillings! they were too much recoil for me.
On the way home I stayed with a guy who was a serious hunter and his gun collection was impressive. He had everything from an old but wonderful William Evans .470 NE down to .22 LR. In his collection he had a lovely sporterized 7x57 mauser. It had drop leaf express sights, nice wood, schnabel fore end on a Mauser action. Alec, my host, said it was a massively underrated cartridge and killed beyond its ballistics and if recoil was a problem this was a good solution. His rifle was a riflemans rifle imo and I wanted one. Your rifle reminded me of my last night in Zim. Thanks for the load data, its really appreciated.
As has been said before Paul Mauser got it right first time with 7x57. It was a much better cartridge than the 303 used by the British or the 30-40 Krag as used by the Americans. The Brits developed their own 7mm with the Enfield P14 Mauser type rifle, but WW1 got in the way so it was shelved and P14s were quickly adapted to 303.

The Americans didn’t want to pay royalties to Mauser so made the Springfield rifle with the 30-03 cartridge, which was updated to the 30-06 in 1906 with a 165 gn spitzer bullet.

After WW2 the Brits tried again to adopt a 7mm in the EN2. Politics got in the way and Nato forced the adoption of the 7.62 Nato in the SLR / FN FAL.

The 7x57 has always had a pretty fast twist - usually 1 in 8.5”. It can stabilise long for calibre bullets. With a 130 to 140gn monolithic and modern powders in a good strong action you can approach 3,000 fps if you want. 100 years ago the 275 Rigby High Velocity was doing 2,800 fps with a 140gn bullet.

It’s a very pleasant cartridge to shoot. There is recoil, but it’s a shove rather than a snap. And they just seem to work well and pretty unfussy. I am confident with mine that I can take a mix of different brands of ammo and they will all hit close enough to point of aim that any deer will regret have spent quite so much at work rather than living life to the full.

I have had a 275 Rigby for the last 10 odd years. It was made for a good friend’s father in the 1970’s and shot many deer on his highland estate. It then came to me to look after and keep it in good shape, and I have shot plenty with it. Over the last year or so I have been his granddaughter to use the rifle and it will go to her when she gets her FAC.

I am starting to think of a replacement - it will be another 7x57, but I want to build something on a proper left handed controlled round feed mauser type action.
 
Back
Top