7x57 - the grand cartridge dedicated reloading thread, - let's help each other! :)

Scipio

Well-Known Member
Hello Lads and Ladies, i am about to start reloading for my 7x57 in the coming weeks, and having bumped into a good few other 7x57 users on here, many of which who are also reloading for it, i thought why not start a dedicated 7x57 reloading thread.
A thread where we can gather our collective experiences, give each other advice and hopefully help each forwards :)

My plan is to go with:
Projectile: 120 grs Barnes ttsx,
Powder: Vihtavuori N150
Brass: Once used ppu brass
Primer: Advice most welcome!
Seating depth: Advice most welcome! But i reckon my rifle has quite a long freebore, so even if i sit it far out, it will likely be jumping a fair bit.

The rifle being loaded for is:
Model: Mannlicher Schoenauer GK Stutzen
Barrel length: 20.5 inches/52 centimeters
Year of production: Mid to late 60ies estimated
Condition: Good (and i had it checked by a well reknowned gunsmith when i bought it).

Gordons Reloading tool is projecting this, ((although i have yet to obtain my functional case capacity or insert the actual seating depth):Skærmbillede 2025-09-05 173238.png
 
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All constructive advice is most welcome .-) Oh, perhaps an Intended use column would have been constructive for providing context.

Intended use:
Hunting in forrested and a bit hilly area of Sweden, and occassionally Denmark, going for everything from Roe, red, wild boar to moose (the latter only rarely though). I dont expect to go over 150 meters for shot distances often, if ever. It will probably mainly be from 0-150 or so, I speculate.

So the load doesnt need to be a speed demon. Accuracy and good terminal effect on the intended game are paramount. I dont mind taking the shots a bit fwd, and going for the Hilar or high shoulder on deer or the spine on boar👍 :)
 
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Stick with the tried and trusted Rigby variant of a 140 grain bullet at 2,600 fps or so (this just makes 9 grams if local laws mandate such minimum) or for heavier animals maybe as you have freebore the original 7x57 loading of a 175 grain bullet at 2,450fps.

I do not see that 120 grain would do else but spoil meat at the projected 2,900fps muzzle velocity and intended range. And again for boar maybe not meeting any 10 gram rule? But so too would the 140 grain bullet at 9 grams not be lawful if 10 gram was the rule?

The go to bullet with 7mm-08 was 140 grain as it was a good compromise offering velocity, good ballistic coefficient and bullet weight. Which of course Rigby worked out long long before someone necked down the .308 Winchester and stuck a .284" bullet in the end of it!

Oh...and use EUROPEAN reloading data written for modern actions not USA reloading data that (USA) is tailored to take account of weaker types of actions still sometimes found in use there...but always following safe load working up methods.
 
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Hello Lads and Ladies, i am about to start reloading for my 7x57 in the coming weeks, and having bumped into a good few other 7x57 users on here, many of which who are also reloading for it, i thought why not start a dedicated 7x57 reloading thread.
A thread where we can gather our collective experiences, give each other advice and hopefully help each forwards :)

My plan is to go with:
Projectile: 120 grs Barnes ttsx,
Powder: Vihtavuori N150
Brass: Once used ppu brass
Primer: Advice most welcome!
Seating depth: Advice most welcome! But i reckon my rifle has quite a long freebore, so even if i sit it far out, it will likely be jumping a fair bit.

The rifle being loaded for is:
Model: Mannlicher Schoenauer GK Stutzen
Barrel length: 20.5 inches/52 centimeters
Year of production: Mid to late 60ies estimated
Condition: Good (and i had it checked by a well reknowned gunsmith when i bought it).

Gordons Reloading tool is projecting this, ((although i have yet to obtain my functional case capacity or insert the actual seating depth):View attachment 435995
I would go a bit heavier bullet. With monolithics freebore is not an issue - they like a bit of a run up. I am using the Fox 130gn in mine over the factory load of N140 in my early 1970’s Rigby. Red, Roe and foxes really don’t like it. They have all fallen on the spot.

Given that you have a 20” barrel I would go a bit faster burning than N150 so you get a complete burn in the shorter barrel.

In my 7x65R I am using the 140gn RWS HIT bullet which looks very similar to the Barnes TTSX, albeit nickel plated. It too works very well.
 
Stick with the tried and trusted Rigby variant of a 140 grain bullet at 2,600 fps or so (this just makes 9 grams if local laws mandate such minimum) or for heavier animals maybe as you have freebore the original 7x57 loading of a 175 grain bullet at 2,450fps.

I do not see that 120 grain would do else but spoil meat at the projected 2,900fps muzzle velocity and intended range. And again for boar maybe not meeting any 10 gram rule? But so too would the 140 grain bullet at 9 grams not be lawful if 10 gram was the rule?

The go to bullet with 7mm-08 was 140 grain as it was a good compromise offering velocity, good ballistic coefficient and bullet weight. Which of course Rigby worked out long long before someone necked down the .308 Winchester and stuck a .284" bullet in the end of it!

Oh...and use EUROPEAN reloading data written for modern actions not USA reloading data that (USA) is tailored to take account of weaker types of actions still sometimes found in use there...but always following safe load working up methods.
Hello @enfieldspares and thank you for the advice :)

I shall most certainly be leaning mainly on european modern reloading data 👍 But i fear i might not have been clear enough in my earlier post. I have to load non frangible monolithics, i cant use lead ammo. In Sweden the projectile weight, even for boar, as i understand it has to be min 120gr and meet certain energy requirements, which shouldnt be a problem.
The barnes 120 ttsx (non lead) should projectile length be somewhat close to 140 grns lead and in terms of penetrational ability maybe more akin to a 145-150s partition or higher higher cup and core.
But if you were going non lead in the 7x57 with my rifle and hunting needs in question, would you still look to something different ? :)

i think another new 7x57 reloader @Olaf might have harvested input on using the barnes ttsx in the 7x57. Well the 140 grn at least, which seemed to do him very well vs some boar🐗 But i think he planned to try the 120 grn next. Maybe he shall see this thread, and be able to provide further input .-)

I would go a bit heavier bullet. With monolithics freebore is not an issue - they like a bit of a run up. I am using the Fox 130gn in mine over the factory load of N140 in my early 1970’s Rigby. Red, Roe and foxes really don’t like it. They have all fallen on the spot.

Given that you have a 20” barrel I would go a bit faster burning than N150 so you get a complete burn in the shorter barrel.

In my 7x65R I am using the 140gn RWS HIT bullet which looks very similar to the Barnes TTSX, albeit nickel plated. It too works very well.
Hey Heym, and thank you, such real life feedback is very good to know :)
The fox classic 130 was actually the other option i was considering. In the 120 barnes ttsx calculations, GRT kept giving me Vihtavuori N150 as the better powder over the N140, mainly due to better case fill %. Both gave me projected complete powder burns. 👍

Here is the calculation for the 130 barnes, in my rifle/barrel length. That too projects a complete burn.
Is it largely incomplete powder burn which produces fireball like muzzleblasts? Because i am kind of hoping it is, and that i can fix it via reloading, because when i use factory ammo in the 7x57 the little stutzen tends to bellow like a cannon, and spew fire like a dragon:lol:

Skærmbillede 2025-09-05 210343.png
 
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I can't help with non-lead as I have no direct experience of such, sorry. I do of some of the N140, N150 and N160 powders and for sure even in a 60cms barrel there is a lot of unburned powder with N160. I have used N140 and N150 in .303 and as that has a 62.5cm barrel cannot comment on unburned powder.
 
I can't help with non-lead as I have no direct experience of such, sorry. I do of some of the N140, N150 and N160 powders and for sure even in a 60cms barrel there is a lot of unburned powder with N160. I have used N140 and N150 in .303 and as that has a 62.5cm barrel cannot comment on unburned powder.
Thank you @enfieldspares that knowledge too is good to possess. 🙂👍
 
All constructive advice is most welcome .-) Oh, perhaps an Intended use column would have been constructive for providing context.

Intended use:
Hunting in forrested and a bit hilly area of Sweden, and occassionally Denmark, going for everything from Roe, red, wild boar to moose (the latter only rarely though). I dont expect to go over 150 meters for shot distances often, if ever. It will probably mainly be from 0-150 or so, I speculate.

So the load doesnt need to be a speed demon. Accuracy and good terminal effect on the intended game are paramount. I dont mind taking the shots a bit fwd, and going for the Hilar or high shoulder on deer or the spine on boar👍 :)
I would go and I am going 150gn barnes,
 
Fox do a 145grn monolithic which might be more suited. Speak to Ed @Edinburgh Rifles.
he's usually pretty helpful.
The 145gn bullets work well. I have used them in my 7x65R. My rifle was one that Edinburgh Rifles used as a test. In the 7x57 the 145’s are a bit slower, whereas the 130’s are getting good velocities. In practice the 130 monolithics are the same sort of length as a typical 150ish lead bullet. The have a bit flatter trajectory over the typical 250m that most hunter over.

If I was shooting big moose abd red deer and boar I would possibly err towards the 145 Fox, but I am mostly shooting Roe and west coast red deer and the 130 works just fine.
 
Cheers guys! :) I must emphasize that the moose will likely be a once a year kind of thing, the main quarry will be red, boar and roe. 👍 :)
I see that fox themselves council the 130 for both moose, red and boar on their web site, which is comforting.

And yep, i am of course always most happy to listen to a man of experience, like @Edinburgh Rifles for sure :) Even though the annoying rules on ammo importation to Denmark from abroad makes buying ammo and ammo components from outside Denmark both difficult and expensive. :-/
 
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Cheers guys! :) I must emphasize that the moose will likely be a once a year kind of thing, the main quarry will be red, boar and roe. 👍 :)
I see that fox themselves council the 130 for both moose, red and boar on their web site, which is comforting.

And yep, i am of course always most happy to listen to a man of experience, like @Edinburgh Rifles for sure :) Even though the annoying rules on ammo importation to Denmark from abroad makes buying ammo and ammo components from outside Denmark both difficult and expensive. :-/
Fox Bullets are available in Denmark

 
Fox Bullets are available in Denmark

Hello Heym and thank you :)

And yes, luckily They are indeed. That is one of the reasons why i was considering them. That and Them Being a European producer as well as the many positive reviews 👍

What i meant earlier was, that i was a bit sorry that i cant buy them from our man on the board, given he's often quite helpful to his fellow hunters on here👍🙂
 
Hello Heym and thank you :)

And yes, luckily They are indeed. That is one of the reasons why i was considering them. That and Them Being a European producer as well as the many positive reviews 👍

What i meant earlier was, that i was a bit sorry that i cant buy them from our man on the board, given he's often quite helpful to his fellow hunters on here👍🙂
You must mean Helpful Ed. from Edinburgh.
KB.
 
Hello chaps, well well, going on the advice from this very thread, i've been doing some projections on GRT for the 130 Fox classic, and with that bullet RS 60 comes out looking like a clear favourite. Even vs the N150, which was looking very good for the 120 barnes ttsx.

N150 projection first and then RS60:Skærmbillede 2025-09-07 183743.png




Skærmbillede 2025-09-07 183725.png
 
But a few questions then arise; -

- I know RS60 burns warmer than many other powders, reducing barrel life somewhat, but is it especially bad for an older but still well conditioned barrel like this one, from the late 60ies?
Or is the much the same as for more modern chrome-moly barrels?

- Is there even much of a benefit to that extra speed of the RS60 (MV max 2898 fps) vs the 2770 fps of the N160 for shots made inside mainly 150 meters, using this bullet, @Heym SR20 what do you think here, which terminal velocity interval would you advice for the 130 gr fox classic, given your field experience with it :)

- RS 60 is more temp sensitive than N150 it seems. Now i am based in Northern europe, so it doesnt typically get that warm here, not even in the summer, but should i still be aware of this when loading with RS60 and maybe load it 0,2 or 03 down from the adviced max (if my rifle even likes the max of course) ?

-Advice on which primer brand and type to consider would be great too, as i have zero experience on that issue . I believe i can get many of the more common brands here, in Denmark (federal, cci, fiocchi, rws) .

Thanks again guys :-)
 
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But a few questions then arise; -

- I know RS60 burns warmer than many other powders, reducing barrel life somewhat, but is it especially bad for an older but still well conditioned barrel like this one, from the late 60ies?
Or is the much the same as for more modern chrome-moly barrels?

- Is there even much of a benefit to that extra speed of the RS60 (MV max 2898 fps) vs the 2770 fps of the N160 for shots made inside mainly 150 meters, using this bullet, @Heym SR20 what do you think here, which terminal velocity interval would you advice for the 130 gr fox classic, given your field experience with it :)

- RS 60 is more temp sensitive than N150 it seems. Now i am based in Northern europe, so it doesnt typically get that warm here, not even in the summer, but should i still be aware of this when loading with RS60 and maybe load it 0,2 or 03 down from the adviced max (if my rifle even likes the max of course) ?

-Advice on which primer brand and type to consider would be great too, as i have zero experience on that issue . I believe i can get many of the more common brands here, in Denmark (federal, cci, fiocchi, rws) .

Thanks again guys :-)
Barrel burning - this really only happens if you are using an overbore type cartridge - things like the old 264 win mag - basically a 300 win mag necked to 6.5mm with a 140 gn bullet at 3,200 fps. And 70 years ago powders burned hot and were quite corrosive. Modern propellants are much kinder to barrels. You can still burn a barrel out, or in practice degrade a barrels accuracy quite quickly but getting a bucket of ammo and shooting in rapidly with a hot barrel.

But in an older sporting such as the Mannlicher Schoeneur you are not going to be firing long shot strings with a really hot barrel.

So I would not stress re faster powders.

I am using PPU brass, with CCI Powders, and Edinburgh Rifles factory load of N140. Published box velocity is 2,840 fps. Haven’t a clue what mine is doing as I haven’t measured but mine as a 24” barrel so will that sort of ball park.

Now I wouldn’t stress about velocity one or other. Provided your muzzle velocity is 2,700 fps plus you will shoot any deer within 150 metres. A touch more velocity- 2800 to 2900 will give a touch flatter trajectory and more terminal thump. Have a play with a ballistics app and you will see it makes not a lot of real difference.

I would not worry about temperature sensitivity per se. However before you go hunting its always worth taking a check shot or two in similar conditions / altitude/ temp to which you will be hunting.

All rifles are different so difficult / impossible to opine what works for.

Heres what I would do.

Take the advised Max load. Back off by 10%. Now load up 10 cartridges, starting at 10% below max load and going up in 0.2gr increments for each cartridge.

Fire these at the same target at 100m. Take your time, letting barrel cool beween. Shoot them to the same point of aim, noting the impact point of each shot. If you can, also record the velocity.

At each shot note any signs of pressure- flattened primer and in particular stiff bolt lift.

Once you start seeing stiff bolt lift you are getting towards overpressure.

If the powder / bullet is working for your rifle most of the bullets will be hitting within a pretty reasonable group.

Then have a good look at the shot impact points and velocities. Chances are you will see a clustering where two or three consecutive shots are closer together. This suggests a node. Take the midpoint and load up a three or five test cartridges and see how they group. If you are fortunate it will probably be more than good enough. If not you will need to load up a few more tests going up and down slight changes in powder weight.

Going back to the Mannlicher Schoeneur’s you do need to manage your expectations. These are 50 year old rifles from a period when a sub 2 MOA rifle was considered to be very accurate and 3 or 4 MOA is more than satisfactory.

I have shot those mannlichers and I really do like them. But they do like to be shot properly as in hold the foreend and rest you hand and squeeze into your shoulder. And you generally get better accuracy if are a wee bit off max loads. Max loads tend to blow groups open.

As to Powder Choices, 7x57 with lighter bullets seems to do better with N140 type burn rates. I would suggest that N160 is probably a bit on the slow side. RS60 is somewhere in between.

 
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Cheers Heym, and thanks for all of the advice :-)

luckily how you describe it, is how I like to shoot anyways, and all I need from my little MS is hunting accuracy Inside those 150 or meters, not match grade precision .-)
As for powders, i was considering RS60 vs N150, (not the slower N160). Of those two one is faster MV wise (RS60) but burns hotter, (there is no free lunch after all). The other is seemingly a bit more clean burning , less temp sensitive and less hard on the barrel but is a good bit slower (120 fps at suggested max).
But as for barrel wear i am not shooting a 500 rounds a year through a stutzen hunting rifle, so i am not sure the reduced barrel life of using rs60 vs n150 is a game decider to be honest.
I have 1-2 weeks to research further and maybe discover more good advice on here, before i purchase powder, so we'll see. But it is going to be fine either way i am fairly sure , and produce loads which are capable of ethically taking deer, boar, roe and maybe even moose at the required distance .-)
 
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